A question for guys that have used a dropped front axle on an AD Chevy Truck.Any potential issues here,like the drag link angles that may require bending the spindle arm? I know guys bend Ford arms.And oil pan clearance? Be using a small block Chevy engine so I figure the tie rod won't foul the pan at the limits of suspension travel. The truck needs new front springs so maybe using Posie's front springs might be better?easier? I'm not looking for to drop the front on the pavement,just about 3 inches will do, Thanks. I have photos of the truck to post in a few days.
a 3" drop should'nt cause much issue with steering geometry. If the oil pan clears the axle now, it will maintain the exact same clearance with a 3" drop axle; however 3" lowering springs will bring the axle 3" closer to the oil pan.
I just put a 3" drop AD axle in my '38 truck. Just convert from the ball and socket steering to the drop in non-tapered replacement tie rods any of the vendors sell. Run one tie rod on the engine side of the pitman arm and run the other tie rod under the steering arm. This keeps the drag link parallel with the ground with no need to heat and bend the arm. I'll post a pic later.
Like LULL said a dropped axle will not change the clearence to the oil pan. Lowering springs will move the axle up closer to the frame. When running a dropped axle you do need to modify the steering arms. You don't have to heat and bend the steering arms. I use the 37-64 Ford tie rod ends. I knock out the balls and use a 7 degree reamer and ream the steering arm holes out from the bottom up. I order a new tie rod complete with tie rod ends from Speedway Motors for $50.
I put a 3" drop axle on my '54 panel. The factory steering arm that curves around will hit the top of the axle. I cut mine off and bought one of the y-shaped steering arms that bolts to the backing plate bolts. I also went ahead and put a power steering conversion on it because the last owner made a mess of the steering to get it to clear the SBC, but that's a whole different problem not related to the axle. I can take pics tomorrow if you want. edit* found a pic of the stance after I got it together, but I'll get pics of the linkage tomorrow.
I'm stripping down the 50 truck for major repairs so here's what the front axle looks like.The front axle is on jackstands,old 216 engine but not the front sheetmetal. I can see a 3 inch drop axle needs to have the tie rods re located to the bottom of the steering arms The second photo show the the stock drag link pretty much parallel to the ground.A dropped axle will raise the front part,maybe cause funny steering
Here is a tech article from my web site Jeff Smith did when we dropped his truck. http://droppedaxles.com/TECH_ARTICLES.html#TXTOBJ7D9416E352E1C51 If you have any questions I'll be glad to help you out...SID www.droppedaxles.com
The only problem i seen with that tech article is that in know in Alaska its illegal to stack blocks. Should use dearched springs or do some work with the shackles.
I'm looking to lower the front about 3 inches.The front springs are whipped........have to replace the main leafs at the least,king pins,stock tie rod ends and ball studs are beat.So it's all gonna be changed one way or another.Done this job before several times and it's no big deal to drill and hack away....safely.Also looking at 3 inch lower Posie's front springs and use the stock front axle.Be a smoother ride I suppose but don't know if it's a better way to lower the front. Got to mock up the SBC in place and then see what clearance is left for modifying the front beam axle.
Your original springs may have sagged some, so the dropped springs probably won't get you another 3" down over where you are now. And 3" dropped springs will likely have that axle snubber right up against the frame rails (no suspension travel). What's wrong with the original springs? Are they broken?
I'm runing a 4" dropped axle in my '54 Chevy truck. I recently put a sbc in it. What steering box do you plan on using? The V8 WILL interfere with the stock steering box and if you change it to a later model 'front-steer' type, you will have eliminated the question about your steering arm. I am using a late '50's Chevy truck steering box that I cut the column off of. I still ended up having to make a set of headers to go around the box, but I didn't have to change the original steering arm. r
I had sid drop my axel 4 inches.I machined all my parts up for the ford tie rod ends the same way he had on his tech page it it worked out well.My main leafs were in tough shape but the rest of the pack was good.Ordered my new main leafs from St lois spring,these guys were great to work with and had a better price than any body else.The only thing i see is a possible scub issue.I may have to go to 16 inch wheels to overcome this.Burl.
yes,and the eyes are egg shaped .I'm trying to avoid buying new springs and a dropped front axle.The drop springs from Posie's have two leaves so the spring pack is thinner than the stock spring pack so in theory there is enough spring travel. I had monoleaf front springs in my 37 Chevy truck with one full leaf I added and they rode ok .With a sway bar the handling was ok too. I prefer the dropped axle,maybe I'll thow a few hundred bucks at new main and second leaves and build what I need from what's left.Done this spring building many times..............YUP,that's what I'm doing
going to hijack the thread a little. What mods to get the 41-54 half ton dropped axle and steering arms in a 38 chevy passenger car??
The 41-54 has a spring center of 26-3/4” the 1937-40 car axle has a 28” spring center. It’s better to just drop the 38 car axle. When I modify the steering arms I just move the tie rod and draglink to the bottom side of the steering arms. I also change tie rod ends over to modern style ends.
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