Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

I think 60 feet is a fair estimate. Might be closer to 70 feet. A bit daunting, I agree. Hopefully minimal grinding because I’ve chamfered the edges.

 

Never planned on adding glass but got the doors, wheel wells and fire wall fixed it. Going to start body working some of it. Going to put sound sound deadening in the door and por15 it.. will
Get upholstered soon

 

The body lines look really straight. Something to be proud of!

 

Got tired of the car looking like shit with the rickety doors lol. They still need a little work but I’m happy with em. My valve cover fins were getting cut into by the firewall so I had to do something before I ruined them.. you can really see the hole here lol

 

My uncle is being move to assisted living and he wanted me to have his 32 Chevy 5 passenger coupe. He started on it in the mid 70s, which explains the Jag suspension. I love the chop!!

 

Wow! That's quite a unique find @Dyce - Chevy's version of the Ford Vicky! Post a build thread when you can as your project should get ALOT of attention from us Chevrolet lovers!! Front end has GOT TO GO though...

 

I agree! I found a 31 chevy frame thst is a roller. I'm not sure if there are differences. The Jag suspension is in pieces and I haven't taken time to see if it's all there.

 

Can this frame under the car now be used? Take a picture of the '31 Chevy roller and post it for us.

 

It's going to be a few weeks before I get the 31 frame. I did score a NOS 327 shortblock with the car. It is a new large journal 327 truck engine. It has dished pistons, but it has a steel crank.
It has rust, but to be honest I expected worse.

 

I’m running a steel crank in my motor. With how light these cars are it’s still going to be a rocket.

I got around to painting the doors put some sound deadening in and been waiting to put this little mirror I found in for awhile.

 

Great find, Keep up up in your progress and best to your uncle. Love the dolly it is sitting on too!

 

He had the frame welded to the dolly. It is a Nutting railroad cart. They have been made into coffee tables.

 

It would be good build a smoker or grill on. Maybe some of the heavy ship tools.

 

Nice Jeff!!

 

What’s everyone running for door handles? I have a set of originals but kind of a pain with these bear jaw latches.. I thought about running some 41 lincoln push buttons; but to me is a bit more for customs

 

Do I dare say it... I bought a new pair of locking door handles from... Wait for it... A 32 Ford!!!!!

 

Fordication is not encouraged.

 

Hahaha I have the original 35 Chevy inner and outter handles

 

I have the stock latches & handles for my '26. I may fill the outside hole and just use the inside handle if the latches keep the doors closed. A cleaner look to go with the hidden hinges like the '25.

 

I was thinking the same with mine. It's kind of a pain in the ass to try and run a outside handle with my latches.

 

Freakin door fitment is night and day now

 

I tack welded plates to the frame today. It remains flat and square.
A very knowledgeable older guy told me to cut the plates like I show in the 1st picture. He said if I butt weld two plates end to end it will eventually crack the frame due to stress concentrated at that weld. He said the curved pattern spreads out the stress and is less likely to cause the frame flange to crack. What do you think? Ever seen this before?

 

It makes sense but I’ve never seen it done. It looks good though

 

You have two left side handles. The right side has a key lock. At least that is the way it is on my '34. You can swap them side to side.

 

You’re probably right. I’ve seen more sets without the lock; I thought maybe the lock was an upgrade. Hell if that’s the case I have 4 right handed handles haha. They look better to me without the loc

 

Your doors are looking much better brother!

 

This is my first rodeo with boxed frame rails, so I'll see down the road what happens. Nice work on your frame Jay!

 

Somewhere recently I saw a post about the strength of straight and angled welds. I can't remember where it was.

 

This weld pattern is supposed to help spread stress created by frame twist over a larger area.
The strength of the weld isn’t the issue behind the design shown.
I can’t say I know enough to explain it well, but here goes. A really stiff area will resist twist. A vertical weld is going to resist twist because the weld is harder than the native mild steel. Therefore, as the frame twists, the area right next to the vertical weld will eventually crack. Usually the flange will crack, upper or lower.
Making a weld joint that is shaped like I show is supposed to spread out the stress over a larger area, thus reducing the chance of a stress riser cracking the frame.
That’s a complicated way to say that the curved pattern allows the frame metal to flex more at the weld than a straight weld would allow.
Myth? Urban legend? I don’t know. I did use straight butt welds in the section over the rear axle because the frame will not flex much there.

 

I'll keep looking for the post I'm thinking of. Pretty sure it is here on the HAMB. It stresses weld quality more than joint shape I believe.