I saw that post on the neat little synchronizer and was wondernig if they make something along that lines for the carburetor challenged in a 4 barrel setup or dual quads to be exact?
<font color="green">Root, I was wondering the same thing. Seems you could go to the plumbing dpet at Home Depot and get one of the adapter boots for plumbing that would be close enough to work. I've seen them, rubber deals that are two inches or whatever on one end and 4, or whatever, on the other. Just a thought, it's OK, we're Okies, they expect us to do shit like that! </font>
I bet you could make an adapter out of an old aircleaner base. Block off the top except for a hole over the primaries for the gauge.
Most dual Four set ups are run progressively. They usually only idle off of the rear carb. So there is really no need to sync them. If you are running them together all the time there may be a need.
I run mine together, I like them that way. it would be good to know if they are truly balanced though. I adjust them with the linkage disconnected and count the turns on the idle screws, and use a vacuum gauge on a full manifold vacuum port on the carbs. Paul
You could make a nice Hillbilly Syncro Adapter from a big plastic funnel. Find one with the correct dia on the big end to match the carb, trim the small end to match the syncronizer. The top of the funnel should be flat enough to get a good seal, if you don't cut the other end perfectly a little tape will solve that problem.
Cross ram intakes for Mopar engines do not run progressively. Instead, both carbs open at the same time based on the linkage mechanism. The goal is to ensure that both carbs open simultaneously to allow air to enter the engine at the same rate, promoting balanced air flow and combustion. Synchronizing the carbs is essential for proper operation, and adjusting the linkage is recommended to achieve this balance.
Are you " just saying" the topic is no longer worth discussion ? Just exactly what does your flippant comment mean ?
Carb syncing with any sort of tool is only needed when running an individual runner intake. Think Webers or multi-cylinder/carb motorcycles. A simple hand adjustment of the linkage by eye will be plenty good.
Air flow is not much diffferent from a from a small 2bbl to a large 4bbl at idle, so the Unisyn tool doesnt care about what its mounted too. Just buy a cheap plastic carburator cover and cut a hole in the top to mount the Uni-syn. Dad set on up like this for his dodge. and it works jusf fine.
just something to read.... but heres how I do it.. back the idle screws out till the throttles are closed then with the linkage un hooked turn the screw one at atime till it just touches the throttle... then do the other the same.. then go back and turn each one, one full turn... then, from then on turn each the exact same... idles too slow.. turn each a half turn...you can fine tune them from then on, just do the same to each one..
A shoe size gauge is really not needed when buying new shoes, but sometimes the new shoes pinch And while I do have a synchronizer that fits 4-barrel carbs, I only occasionally used it Jon
I've always run them so they open equally. I have used synchronizers on bikes and side draft carbs, but on 2X4, just used the vacuum hose to the ear to get them into sync. Put the end of the hose in the same location in each carb and match the sound. I've seen enough carbs that I don't trust them to 'bottom out' the same unless I've personally flipped them over and checked for number of turns until the transfer slot is uncovered or other visual or mechanical measurement, like 2 turns = X thousandths of throttle blade clearance. It's pretty rare that 2 out of the box carbs are fully set up for running in dual configuration with jetting, accel and power valving all right, so that's just another step. Once both carbs are flowing equally, I adjust the linkage to hold them at that spacing, blip the throttle to check repeatability, then back off one of the throttle screws so it all is held open by just one screw and use that to adjust idle. Sloppy linkage is not doing you any favors. I agree that a slight mismatch over a shared plenum isn't critical, but I gap the plugs, too!
One at a time. Aluminum lid for a later Holley-Edelbrock with a hole in it for the unisyn. A plastic air clear adapter for a early WCFB-Rochester 4GC glued to it..
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