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Technical Camshaft?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 58-59collector, Sep 11, 2024.

  1. 58-59collector
    Joined: May 23, 2006
    Posts: 72

    58-59collector
    Member
    from LA

    I recently bought a 1956 Chevy that had been parked since 1973. The original owner swapped the 265 for a 283. The 283 has solids which I need to adjust, but I don't have the cam specs? What to do? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  2. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,331

    Budget36
    Member

    First suggestion is to contact who you bought it from, see about details.
    If not possible, start by measuring current lash and post the results.
    General question, does it sound like “a hot cam” ie lumpity lump, or? Might give those an idea, who know.
    I’ve only adjusted two solid cam engines, both 235’s, but did it while running and fully warmed up, yes, you have a curved feeler gauge when done.
     
  3. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 37,535

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    yup, my corvette has an unknown mech camshaft. right or wrong I set them to .022 int and .024 exh and it seems fine. I have adjusted them twice and have put about 20,000 miles on it
     
  4. Ericnova72
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 673

    Ericnova72
    Member
    from Michigan

    If you have a dial indicator and magnetic base, then check the peak lift on both intake and exhaust....this might point you to which factory solid cam was used in it.
    The old 097 Duntov cam is a relatively low lift, like .399" and also has a really tight lash spec, .008-.014"
    The later cams have larger lift and also have much larger lash spec, like the "30-30" cam with .030" lash.

    I also agree to check where it is now, it can give you a good idea what lash.range should be used.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  5. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 17,090

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Some stick shift 283’s had solid lifters just like 265’s. Their lash was set at .008 and .018… These were not performance cams aka Duntov’s.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  6. 58-59collector
    Joined: May 23, 2006
    Posts: 72

    58-59collector
    Member
    from LA

    The original owner who built the motor p***ed, and no one in his family knows. Does not sound like a hot cam no lumpity lump. The car is a factory 3 speed overdrive with a posi/4:11s.
     
    Sharpone likes this.
  7. 58-59collector
    Joined: May 23, 2006
    Posts: 72

    58-59collector
    Member
    from LA

    Thanks I'll try that!
     
  8. 58-59collector
    Joined: May 23, 2006
    Posts: 72

    58-59collector
    Member
    from LA

    That might be the answer!
     
  9. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,331

    Budget36
    Member

    If using the magnetic base and indicator, you have to keep a “zero point”. Ie a spot it fits on the side of the head then contort it to check. Then rotate it some, so the indicator is centered on the other valve. You want one intake and one exhaust valve.
     
    58-59collector likes this.
  10. earlymopar
    Joined: Feb 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,789

    earlymopar
    Member

    I would also check the intake center line of the camshaft to at least reveal where its at with the "dots aligned".
     
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  11. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,621

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    I would set them both at 18 thou. cold and you should be fine.
     
    58-59collector and pbr40 like this.
  12. pbr40
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 948

    pbr40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NW Indiana

    If they run a touch big it’s not goina hurt anything
     
    58-59collector likes this.

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