Yes, they seemed to form nicely using an Eastwood flaring tool, as well as my old Imperial Brass flaring tool. Stainless tube is from Inline Tube. Anything I should be worried about?
I'm still learning things. This is the first time I've heard of inverted flairing stainless. Of course I'm a dinosaur, so there's things being done I know nothing about ! Keep up the fine work!
Regarding flaring S S. tube, I was always advised to use a 37° flare, never use a 45° inverted flare. In addition, always cut the tubing with a hack saw, never use a tubing cutter. The tubing cutter work hardens the tube right where you need to expand it. Details, details, details. Hope this helps. Tom
Info from Inline Tube: Can I double flare stainless steel tube by hand? Yes, you can double flare stainless steel lines bought from Inline Tube. Our tube is fully annealed and is very easy to work with. We recommend and offer several good flaring tools: Rigid, Imperial Eastman or Blue Point. Carefully follow all the instructions that come with the tool and the tubing, and the flare will be perfect every time. Inline Tube bends hundreds of miles of long-lasting stainless-steel brake line every year. Our stainless-steel lines are more resistant to corrosion, deterioration, and damage than our standard OE steel lines. They are double annealed for supreme workability in bending, straightening, and flaring. All coils have a .028” wall thickness. This Inline Tube professional-grade flare kit will form 45° double flares as well as metric bubble flares on OE steel, automotive grade annealed stainless, and any soft metal tube. Please note: All Inline Tube bending and flaring hand tools are designed to be used with fully annealed automotive grade tubing with a wall thickness of .028”. As such, we cannot guarantee results or tool performance using these tools with any other grades or wall thickness. The annealed stainless tubing seems to be the key here and not what we have heard about in the past with stainless tubing cracking when double flared.
Yep annealed will be easier to flare as it's softer. However it will still work-harden, so you still need to be careful with how you cut and flare it.
42 years ago when I plumbed my 3W with stainless and AN fittings the annealed stainless was not available locally. Great that you can use standard brass fittings especially on the correct built that is going together. I gave my 37 degree flaring tools to a friend, doing one car was enough for me. The 4K 5W continues to amaze!
So it starts off fully annealed and then it gets fully Neal'd, and then it's perfect. Man, you do inspirational stuff. And Pete's back, too. It just gets better and better.
Body looks incredible. Sucks about the oil leak good to see you have a good spare engine. This is easily one of the best build threads on the HAMB (tied with Cody Wall's Ardun Killer thread). Really inspiring stuff, you are doing an incredible job Neal.
Progress today. Brake lines done. Seat mounted. Dash installed. Hopefully the engine goes in tomorrow.
They will probably have to pause the RPM Nationals because everyone will be too busy checking out your car; what a work of art.
We got the brakes bled, engine in and made it out of the shop under it's own power. I have some ignition issue, as we made it to the end of the block and it died. Fuel, but no spark. Gonna swap out the coil and then condenser and see if either fix the issue.
Getting closer! & Looking good. I would have said that engine looks amazing, (& it does) but knowing what the lavender one looks like when it's all dolled up & ready to go causes a pause as I know what's coming. It looks great, but..... I wish I could see this one in person...
Obviously the car is already amazing, but I'm really just envious of the amount of skill required to put something together that looks like that in such a short amount of time...
I replaced the coil and made a successful lap around the neighborhood. Lot's of little things to finish up now.
The Jalopy Journal
