Technical ***September 2024 Banger Meet Thread - First BER Month ***

I`m still here , had a busy time of late-racing at Pendine (no better than last year speed) and racing at Santa Pod in the flathead meltdown .I havent broken the car despite flat to the floor throttle so roll on next year!

 

No pictures
Too much covering head and pistons in cert
Old record 133.1
Set 133.8 yeah not much but with a banger just finishing a pass is a win
Typical CREE and Nelson entry
Owen drove
Damn teenager

J

 

As I was no faster at Pending a cam is on my shopping list! Anyone recommend one for a B 4 banger? even a supplier of one would be great .

 

Here's a few screengrabs from my video of the RPM Nationals. It was quite the event! I'm motivated to get my coupe ready to race for next years event, we'll see what happens!

 

Kevin,
Curious where you mounted the sensor in the exhaust and how much difference it makes. On my car it made quick time of figuring out what main jets to run.

 

Sensor placement does matter… but I put mine in a convenient, and more importantly hidden, location. I’m no expert, but I’m told that too close to the header collector and the sensor will read erratic due to pulses. I run an iron manifold and the sensor is a couple feet away. Workin great so far.

 

So my understanding is that the sensor needs to be far enough away from the port or ex valve to reduce the temperature
But also far enough away from the open end of tailpipe to not read reverberation air drawn from outside

J

 

Will done, a record is a record!
& Don't worry he won't be a teenager for long

 

Give my congratulations to Owen on his first of one, I imagine, many records.

 

Thank you...
No wonder there's a leak after every drive I take and yes,the oil seems to be coming put of every possible place....
The cap is short and it's not ventilated....
Can't think of a solution.

 

Vent the valve cover plate
J

 

Here's some info on AFR setups: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/air-fuel-ratio-meter.1156960/

 

Might as well add oil through the valve cover too.

 

Had to unload and drive the hot rod through the Chandelier Tree on the way home from RPM Nationals.

 

Does anyone have any advice on installing a model B distributor in an A engine. After some reading I realized the B engine has the timing pin in a different location than an A engine. I would assume I just need to get #1 to TDC and point the rotor to #1 on the cap. Probably over thinking things.

 

Looks great Hance!

 

The B distributor is timed 19 degrees BTDC per the info in the Ford Garage web pages. Where as the timing pin for a Model A sets the point opening at TDC.
https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/timingcovers.htm

 

I found this timing tip somewhere, i don't remember where. Not really accurate, but this is how i did it:
- Find the TDC with timing pin and model A timing cover
- Turn distributor rotator so that it is NOT centered to distributor cap #1 cylinder lead, but rotators trailing end is meeting #1 lead. This should give you about 19deg advance
As i said, not really accurate. Works for me pretty good. After running engine, i retard timing just little, cause starter had hard time to turn engine when hot.
This is my set up: Model B engine, Head milled to about 5.2:1 compression, Lightened flywheel (about 14 pounds lighter than stock model B), Dual Stromber 81s and Model A timing cover (cause i did not have anything else!)

 

I appreciate the response.

 

It seems difficult to find someone who is capable or willing to build a full pressure insert bearing B engine. Any recommendations?

 

@trikejunkie -I can recommend Bill Stipe's cams. I've got an RR340 in my pickup and it runs real good. I've also got an Isky 1007b in my roadster that @Pete1 ground and it goes really well in my light roadster. Plus it's lopey so that's cool heheh.

 

Any video of them running?

 

Have you looked at a Burtz kit?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jlp58MVb4xPty2CJSTOCrRXmqD9_TFzs/view

 

@Outback -There's a couple of my roadster at the HotRod Hillclimb on IG. I can't remember if I have any of my p/up.

@turnpikecruiser31

 

Stipe 340 in a burtz

 

Couple of things you could do, fabricate a longer filler tube that clears and add a vented cap, vent the valve cover, the best solution (but does require a bit or work) is the add a pcv above the running oil level in the valve cover and add a vented cap to the oil fill tube you have to keep the crankcase in a vacuum, will help to keep the oil clean for longer and reduce fumes inside the car if done correctly

 

It’ll be here Tuesday. I figured it was the best way moving forward not being a machinist or knowing one.
I still would be interested in having a B engine built. I have 2 blocks that passed a 30# pressure test and more than a couple “C” cranks.

 

I decided on a Burtz after all the sneaky cracks in my B block made them selves known, being over here I reckon it's probably the cheapest and most reliable option.

Just spent a few happy hours on a friends big old lathe hacking the flywheel down to around 35 pounds.

It was a bit of a hand full after my little Atlas lathe!

 

Thanks I'll have a look, I got kicked off IG for no reason, but should still be able to watch a vid?

When a lathe makes a flywheel look small you know it's a biggin!

thanks, that sounds great, looks good too.

 

Link to October 2024 Banger Meet