Technical 383 SBC in a 56 Chevy how to ?

So just bought a 383 and t5 that was in a buddies Camaro aluminum angle plug heads roller cam , demon carb , msd ignition great running engine built about 5 years ago . Buddy went out west to chase oil money the camaro sat in his parents car port t-roofs leaked and the interior went moldy and floors got soft.

anyways I got a screamer of a deal on it and the WCt5 ****** .

now my question is what do I need to install this in my 56 .

mounts , cross member , exhaust manifolds or headers parking brake handle the clutch is hydraulic would I switch to cable ?
Parking brake handle be in the way ?


I know with the iroc t5 I would need to switch to buckets that’s a possibility or I might swap to a s10 trans .

eitherway

what’s my shopping list for this project ?

 

Man this is going to be chock full of opinion based responses. You ready for them?

 

you can buy a clutch m/c kit. Find a pair of early 60s GM bucket seats. You'll probably want side mounts for the engine. See if you can swap on some short valve covers to clear the firewall more easily. you'll need a transmission crossmember, and probably cut off the frame horns that mount the crossmember now. Different driveshaft yoke, if you're lucky the length won't change, but it probably will. Some type of headers might fit, or get some rams horn manifolds. Get a smaller distributor.

But there will be a bunch of other good ideas, too

 

Whatever a 1955-56 Hot Rod magazine says to do for the engine and fab a trans crossmember.
Watch half a million Youtube videos on how it's done and discover 85% are hacks and come back and re-read Squirrels response as it is the best advice thus far.

 

If the car is stick shift now, I'd look for a V8 bellhousing for a tri five and use the factory mounts and clutch linkage, crossmember is optional. Headers for performance, or 2.5" Ram Horn manifolds for reliability AND performance. As squirrel said, a smaller distributor and shorter valve covers for better clearance. Use as many factory systems as possible and it should damn near fall together. Be sure to through bolt the left rear motor mount in 2 places to keep it from separating from the excessive torque of a 383 if you go this route. A shorter driveshaft might (probably will) also be needed. The parking brake shouldn't be an issue.

 

Bought a generic tri 5 aftermarket trans crossmember for the wife’s 56.
There’s plenty of side mount kits.
Super EZ.
I don’t have pictures but we put a termec in a 55 with a bench. Heated and bent a piece of stainless to clear the bench for the shifter.

 

Used these trans dapt mounts Engine sit a tad too low to clear the PS pump so I had to space em up on the frame about 3/8
I’d probably go this route if I do another one

some mounts will move the engine foward to clear those large ugly distributors
You already got the 6 cyl radiator so that cool if using those mounts.

 

Yes it can be done but you are about to over build the wagon. Leave the 6 cy and enjoy.

 

The only thing I’ll say is this. The lower pic that Anthony posted that used the round biscuits is how I did Carina’s 56. It keeps with how GM did it 55-57 in one sense and how they did it 58 and up all in one package. Added bonus, no having to hover engine above the mount then lower it.

As mentioned all ready. Pay attention to what ever mount you go with as far as stock location or forward. By the way. Is a T5 the same length as say a Muncie 4 speed, TH350? If so, use your same drive shaft. Just change trans yoke.

 

That HEI dist many not clear the firewall. Use a small body dist. Stay away from 3/4 inch forward mounts if possible. They cause oil pan center link clearance problems. That engine has a right hand side oil dip stick. Not a problem until its time to check the oil.The battery box sits over it so it cant be pulled. On my 55 Chev I used a 57 battery box,and mounted it behind the p***enger head light like a 57.Took a little fabing,but saves putting the battery in the trunk. 2.5 vette manifolds will clear the stock manual steering box.

 

This for the troof!

Depends on the owners wants and needs.
If the owner wants stock [ish] appearance then a 55-57 bellhousing , starter , flywheel , and S10 T5 tail swap.

But if @VANDENPLAS doesn't mind the idea of bucket seats then the side mounts, and rear crossmember is the way to go.
Also cut off the rear frame horns for the original engine mounts, they are not needed and free up room for headers.

When doing the side mount /rear crossmember conversion you can "fudge" the engine forward a bit for HEI distributor clearance. [sometimes you need an early oil pan to clear the steering centre link]
Leave the radiator in the 6 cylinder position .

@VANDENPLAS , I would do that swap without a 2nd thought

The Camaro T5 is 2" longer than a Muncie / ST10

 

There’s a billion motor mount suppliers




I’m thinking ram horn exhaust manifolds ( seen a couple different types ones that dump straight down and others that are swept back .

not against headers , just want no issues with steering etc because of exhaust .

front mounts and a trans cross member seem pretty easy .

I want to put the battery in the trunk anyways to clean up under the hood .

early low back buckets would be neat , or I like @anthony myrick idea of tweaking the bench seat for the shifter, looking to do a mild custom with this car , but bench seats are cool !!

is it worth buying the complete kit with cross member mounts etc from speed way ?

 

The idea is complete reseal on the motor fix what ever needs fixing etc . , I would like stock exhaust manifolds or something “ stocklooking “ engine painted orange oem valve covers ( maybe vette finned covers) and a factory duel snorkel air filter .

try to keep it stock-ish looking kind of a “ what if a 383 came stock in a 56 kind of look . With all the chrome and billet most guys do on their builds a stock looking engine stands out in a crowed .

 

Dang prices up that much after a year?
Picked up a speedway trams x-member from their garage sale for $50 ish
The trans dapt mounts were like $75.

 

Small distributor is a must, low profile finned valve covers or Corvette finned valve covers. If those are aluminum heads I wouldn't be apposed to painting them engine color. Simple is good.

If you keep that transmission you have to keep that bellhousing and cannot swap the S-10 shift towner to move the shifter forward as someone suggested. That shift handle looks seriously tall as if someone added a piece to make it quite a bit taller than what you expect in a Camaro.
Cast manifolds of choice if you aren't hung up on headers as it will be a lot simpler and a lot more trouble free. Someone who has run ramhorns in a 56 should be able to make an honest suggestion with photos.
Unless the engine has a radical cam and or a lot of compression it shouldn't be too wild for the street as someone claimed. Good lord, we are a hot rod group not a bunch of pansy restorers.
Engine swap kit of choice. Hopefully there is some honest feedback on that.
Have fun and don't get too many tickets.

 

Here’s the shifter

 

The shifter can be relocated forward with that tailhousing if @VANDENPLAS has some fabrication skills
This requires ZERO dismantling of the transmission except removing the shifter itself.
There is a lot of room between the tunnel and the top of the trans in a tri-5 [2" at the main casing]

You cut the shift lever and weld a "T" pivot on the stub.
Then you make a "Dogbone" single rail to a remote shift lever. [here is a factory Ford Version]
This can go rearward or forward [it works both ways]


The shift lever is located with a spherical bearing either attached to the tunnel or the trans casing
here is a tunnel mount welded into my race car [in this example the shifter goes rearward]




I am going through this process right now with a McLeod shifter [I am very limited to clearances]




Here is the end pivots for a "dogbone"


If you need to cut the floor for clearances [eg: under the bench seat] You can use an old enamel "pie dish" upside down to make a nice tidy hump in the floor
[If you get caught by your wife, tell her the guy from New Zealand gave you permission ]


If you have carpet over the hump, use some contact glue on the carpet and the hump ,Then spray boiling water onto the carpet [this is how you DIY mold the shape of carpet] once the carpet is dry you can separate the glue if needed

 

Find a buyer for your 6 cylinder engine and transmission while it's still in the car. It's easier to sell when the purchaser can see it run.

 

While I love me a straight six anything ( truly inline 6’s are my favourite engine)
They hold virtually no value up here .

I would hopefully flog it and the trans off for a couple hundred bucks if I’m lucky.
You see them pop up “ original BLUE FLAME SIX from a 55 or whatever Chevy and usually start at a grand or 2 and slowly they dwindle down to under $300 bucks .

there’s a bunch for sale around me right now for 50-500 bucks in varying degrees of ****piness.

the cost to build old iron has drastically dropped the prices on them
, heck even old dodge and Chrysler hemis can be had for under 2 grand complete.

anyways , just god a set of 65 impala front hubs to upgrade the wheel bearings and switch to disc brakes at some point , sent a message to a guy who has a set of 2” drop spindles for sale . Let’s see what happens . Gathering parts at this point .

 

$300 in your pocket is better than a greasy lump in your way.

 

May want to move the radiator to the V8 position. I used Hurst mounts in front and an early Camaro crossmember for the trans, which required to weld mounts on the frame-angle iron.

 

moving the radiator back works if you don't plan on having AC or PS or a large fan or anything up there...otherwise, leaving it forward works out ok in many cases.

 

Rounded up the short pump parts to keep mine in the v8 position.
Used a CPP power box. Rams horn manifold is tight on that side. Will probably shift the engine off center slightly.
Building for the wife. She requested PS.
I’d prefer not to have it for me

 

Car steers fine with no power steering now . The SBC is lighter by a bit compared to the inline6

so while it’s not out of the question , pwr steering is not on my “ to do list “ right now .

I’ve seen a bunch of 350-327 tri fives with ram horns and while it’s tight to the box it fits and works .

looked at a steering rack option to gain some space , but it seems the consensus is it screws up steering geometry more then it helps anything . And then your messing with the coloumn . Ain’t doing it !

 

I put repop 2 1/2” ram horns on Carina’s. No big deal with clearance. They are Dormans. I ordered two drivers side. Took one and cut off gen/alt mount off then contour ground to match. All because a plank p***enger wasn’t available.

 

My suggestion/opinion is:

1. Do not use an original 55-57 Bellhousing or the front motormounts. When mounted that way, the transmission is hanging from the back of the bellhousing with no support. There are a lot of 4 speeds out there that have cracked cases or missing mounting ears from engines less capable than a 383. I would use some side mounts and a rear cross menber for best strength/support. I'd mount whatever type exhaust you plan to use and see where they allow the best side mount location. If there is room in front and around the steering box, you might want to shift the whole engine forward an inch or two. That may allow for clearance of the larger distributor.

For a clutch, I'd look at a cable pull clutch like the 90 or so Mustang used. Very easy to set one up. Hydraulic clutches work great but can be a little harder to get right. I don't like the ones inside the bellhousing because they are harder to replace and usually more expensive. If hydraulic, or cable look for one of the GM truck bellhousings with a flange on the side to mount the slave cylinder or cable set up.
Here are some examples:

As @squirrel pointed out below, I mislabeled the pictures I attached. Sorry about that, and thanks to Jim for pointing it out. I have deleted those pictures and hopefully these will be correct. No excuses.
There is some confusing data on just what some of these housings came from and the correct name for them, so basically I'd look for eighties or so truck bellhousings and there may be some cars that had workable ones as well. Probably the easiest and cheapest ways is one of the kits to convert other housings to use an external slave cylinder. Again my apologies for not checking closer.







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Talk to @HOTRODPRIMER about the cable set ups.........

2. Since you have a 383, I'd get a Tremec 5 speed. Somewhat expensive, but it will hold up and it will make cruising a lot more affordable and enjoyable. Which will cost more ? A muncie will be well used and if you damage it, what is its value or what will it cost to repair? The Tremec will hold up and still be worth 75-80% of what you paid for it 10 years from now. Its one of those situations where you pay up front and it pays dividends over time.

 

I’m doing one of the kits with side mounts and a cross member for the trans
Keeping the t5 and doing a shifter mod as posted above to keep things simple .

I’ll keep you guys posted .

 

I’m doing one of the kits with side mounts and a cross member for the trans
Keeping the t5 and doing a shifter mod as posted above to keep things simple .

I’ll keep you guys posted .

 

6sally6