Projects spray on, rinse off rust remover????

I've used Evaporust by putting it in a weed sprayer. Need something like that with a larger nozzle to spray it and ensure the metal is well wetted.

 

The body tool will take care of most broad panel areas fairly quickly. As you say, there will be some areas that may need a little different method to get to the rust. There will always be places on every vehicle that just can't be reached by hand. You originally asked about removing rust from the roof of a 58 Chevy and possibly the outer body panels later on. Doing large areas with chemicals is usually not a paint it on one time and all the rust magically dissolves and washes away with one application situation.

 

We hand stripped the main part of our Suburban over twenty five years ago, all removable parts were chemical dipped, front fenders are NOS factory primered, the Rust Mort has kept all bare metal from surface rusting, though it always has been in a dry shop.
The only problem is people just can't help putting their hands on bare metal (what's up with that), so some of those areas show a light tarnishing.


I have read that they have reformulated it so can't vouch for how well it works now.

 

@DDDenny bare metal acts like a big red push me button for some folks. I don't know why, but I know it's true from my experience.

 

I dug into that,....nothing works like it used to because of the epa,... back in the day, for me, 45 yrs ago, you could buy paint stripper that actually stripped the paint... and rust remover that almost instantly removed the rust... but here's what happens.. it all ends up on the ground... then washed out with it getting to the water table... so the main chemical that worked was banned....so form me... I agree... rather have good drinking water, and maybe have to work a little harder to clean parts.. and I know for fact, before they banned the stuff, all my kids were born naked....

 

I know exact why body shops don't do what I want to do.. here's the clue EPA

 

The closest I've found to applying and washing off is straight phosphoric acid. Found in restaurant supply stores. One brand used to be Lime A-Way. There's other brands though that are the same. I've used the stuff on my 55 Packard to clean up rusty paint and whatnot. Works pretty slick. Just be sure to neutralize it and apply a sealing primer as soon as it dries.

 

so here's what I'm up against....I don't wanna damage the metal any worse than it is... .I wanna rust wash it then shit brick it...

 

still waiting on the stuff to do this car,...but been messing with it...haven found a spec of bondo yet, and shes super straight....so far i've got it to nice clean new looking metal...

 

So what have you used on it so far?

 

mostly pro easy off, I didn't want to pull the side molding, but decided to later as I kept see'n mud dripping out the bottom... it was a good thing as they were packed with dirt and the clips rusted..

 

also been using the zep that I already had...

 

total disaster so far.... shit brick was neg.. the stuff they sent was called grile block... real porous had a hard time even removing the paint... so if you never try it you're better off.. only thing it removed was money from my bank..

 

the evapo rust... put it on, went back and coated it 3 times to ensure it was wet...4 hours.... pressure wash.... nothing, only removed more money from my bank account

 

back in the day,40 yrs ago.. ez off was differant... spray it on and every thing was gone.. grease paint...and such, now the unsented does zero,... and the pro works , alittle, but not how it used to...

 

Evaporust works best for submersible items. For something like body panels, where it will just run off. They say you can saturate paper towels to keep the surface wet.
It needs to stay wet the entire time.
Ambient temps affect how fast it works. Warmer/faster, Colder/slower.
It's slow, usually soaking overnight or longer is needed.

A phosphoric based metal cleaner/prep. Will be alot more effective. And, get it actually clean.

 

The two pronged approach, mechanical and chemical is a good strategy. But I wouldn't do chemical first and then mechanical. Just the opposite. I would sand the surface until all the rust is pretty much gone except for what's left in the pits. Then get out the chemicals. Much less rust for the chemicals to deal with. As mentioned, paper towels, newspapers, whatever to help keep the surface wet. Even a big old blanket or two. You're lucky in the regard that it's a horizontal surface instead of vertical. You should be able to keep it quite wet. What kind of solution should you use? I would use a solution of citric acid and water. It'll attack the rust but nothing else. So you can really wet her down and not worry about it getting on other areas. It can fade cheap low durability paint, but it seems like that won't be an issue for you. When you get to a certain point, and there's only a little tiny bit of rust left in the bottoms of the pits, you can get more localized and neater with your work with some acid, steel wool, rubber gloves, and elbow grease.

Somebody let me know if anybody makes a spray-on rinse off age remover.

 

I think one of the issues is the product,.. some say it's a rust converter... turns the rust to iron.... that would explain why it won't sand off..it's like try'n to sand an engine block. they say it's ready to paint over????

 

so I figred out what happen here... when I first started, I sent my wife to the store to get me some ez off to clean every thing...while she was gone looking around in my shed I see two old can of ez off.. I thought wonder if this stuff is still good,,, it's like 30 years old.. maybe ever more.. so I sprayed some on the side of the 58...it didn't sit that long and I was pressure washing the wheel wells... so I hit the side of the cars with the washer... blasted right down to bare metal, as you can see in the pic... thought shit, this i'll be easy... i'll just ez off and pressure wash all the paint off.. ith the first blast it left the fac. primer... so I grabbed the sec. can... sprayed it on.... primer gone.. so now... out of the old stuff... have the rockers and under the side molding to do.. wife brings me 10 cans... went through that and nothing happened... got 10 more cans... left it on over night... nothing..

I remember some 30 or 40 years ago doing engine bays... ez of cleaned every thing down to the bare metal.... now nothing...

 

If you're still wanting stronger oven cleaner, maybe just buy the main ingredient.

caustic soda
aka sodium hydroxide
aka lye

 

But I doubt it'll remove rust.

 

Ricky's right on the ingredients. Lye is nasty stuff, esp in the eyes n on the skin. Any leftover, mix correctly w/fat, add heat, stir = Grannies' Lye Soap. That'll clean ya... .
CLR & a hard-bristled scrubbrush might be helpful. Not sure iffen I'd leave it dry on the surface though. Might leave the paint too.
Marcus...

 

so here's the goal...I would like to some how get a protective coating on this car to help it make it into the far future ... like they say, if you paint a turd, when your done you have a turd with paint on it.. the theme here is a 60's friday night special drag car that still drove back and forth to work.. I'm gonna put a simi gloss black paint, not primer that'll handle the weather and washing.. so it'll be black with american torque thrust wheels... and lowered... it has a 365 hp vette 327 and 4 speed

 

also,.. my goal is to have one of the first one color under construction cars that looks good when the I want a car that looks like shit and needs paint (also known as fake/ man made shinney patina) goes down the road...

people bought into the patina like loto tickets...

 

Somebody suggested you're not listening to the advice given.

Focus.

 

I tried evaporust gel, crazy expensive. I found this stuff at my local Menards for a way cheaper price and it worked just as good. Used it on the top of my truck cab and sides to get the rust out of the pits.
Then followed up with phosphoric metal prep using steel wool. Clean metal.

 

Stripped the paint and surface rust with a stripping disk. Rust dissolver gel for the embedded rust. before and after.

 

sodium hydroxide will not remove rust

 

Thats really interesting, looks like it works well. I inherited' a big container of pink jell/liquid, I think it might be navy jell, worked great, but did requier 3-6 goes on stubborn stuff, but ive used it all over my 40 body, time consuming, but a lot less mess and potential damage over blasting.
The Rustoleum stuff looks great tho, ive just about used all my pink stuff, and have another car with a very rusty roof that will ned help. Hopefully its available in the UK..

UPDATE ... its not, so i'll have to find something else

 

kinda hard to follow advise giv'n after.... but ,I'm all ears what did I miss...???