Projects My first 33 Chevy 5 window build

Time to work on the inner window garnish, and I'm trying to not use wood.

Here's my version of a steel replacement for the wood, and a little triming for final fit


My manual slip roll, it worked fawlessly....


One clamp to hold in place.




Test fit with window rubber and rear quater window granish, now to measure for screw length and drill holes for screws. At this point then I plan on tacking nuts on the back side of garnish mounting.

 

Got the steel backing plate for the quater window garnish installed and taped for the machine screws. The screws are temporary till the right ones get shipped.


The window rubber sits a bit better with pressure on it from the garnish.

 

Now for the back window, made a cardboard template off the opening of the window and then factored in the thickness for the rubber seal. Then made a plywood piece to insert into the rubber seal.

The rubber lip on the outside sets real good in the opening.


But the tabs on the inside to hold the window in the opening is somehow off. If I push the window up to fit up against the tabs at the top the bottom rubber lip no longer seals at the bottom.


Close up view of the gap.


I can only assume the glass was just siliconed in and no rubber seal, but the tabs are still a mystery.

 

Finally got the window garnish's installed with metal tabs.
Front windsheild and then was able to finish the insturment dash install.


The rear window was a little more complicated. Each tab ended up having to be custom made, then I added a flat strip with 6-32 nuts tig'ed to the back side for when I start the interior panels.


After all that, is was time to move onto some body work. The rear wheel wells were replaced, but weren't flat/straight...roller coaster would be a better discription. It took a great amout of heating and banging to get it fairly close.


A few posts earlier, I showed what I was dealing with the trunk deck lid not matching the conture of the rear quater panels. With a lot of time I got all the panels to match the conture of the deck lid.


This seam was the worse of all the others as being not matching. The problem was all of the rusted metal that was replaced


With all the work, I got a 1/8" gap on all four sides. Unfortunately the hand painted ratfink will not survie with the paint scheme I will be giong for.

 

Great progress

 

Love the pics keep them coming !

 

Not much work was done on the 33 in the last few months, but needed to make a hub mounted wheel dolly to get the wheel out of the way. This will allow for me to move the body pick up point further back on the body to even up the weight on my custom four post body lift.







This should bet me back about 6 to 8 inches

 

I couldn't decide how long of a steering column to get, so I mocked up one from a drawing I got off of a vendor's site.

I went with 1-1/2 pvc pipe which is just a hair below 2" and a 1-1/2 x 3" reducer and two 3" couplers.

Angled the steering column as high as possible to clear for throttle and brake pedal.


I used bailing wire to simulate a 2-1/2" column drop.


So I come of with a 30" long steering column with tilt.

 

@mixerman, I'm loving your project and look forward to each post. I too have a 5 window 33. It was finished (mostly) and I'm dealing with little, nit-noid issues and now installing a Sniper II efi from an edlebrock 1406 on a blueprint 383 stroker. A ton of little stuff to do, so I guess we are really never finished.

I don't like blowing smoke or slinging BS but you are a premium engineer and builder. I'm glad I caught this post

 

Thanks, @Ragingbull01
At first I thought I was retoring a hotrod, instead I'm actualy building a hotrod. There were so many parts missing on this project that I've had to make majority of them myself. I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

Finally got the actual steering column in and was able to get the holes in the fire wall, along with the brake master cylinder and break pedal. For those interested I went with a 30" long steering column, 2-1/2 steering wheel adapter, and 2-1/2" dish steering wheel.

After two failed attempts of getting the holes in the right place. I welded them up and just cut a large enough hole
to move it around to the correct position. Then cut a piece of sheet metal to fit the column and scribed the final
placement, then welded it in.....done. I did the same on the outer part of the fire wall. Yes I have a double fire wall
where the column goes. The outer hole is shown in the picture.


Outside steering column hole, after welded and ground smooth.


Inner column hole welded and ground smooth. Before welding in place, I tig'ed welded four 8-24 nuts to the back side for the column floor mount.


I went with a 2-1/2 " column drop mounted to the bottom support bar for the dash panel, still need to add an extra brace to suppot it a little better.

 

After months of research, I finally decided on the stop/tail lights to go with.

AC cobra tail lights, LED




I didn't notice how not flat/straight the overall fire wall was until I started installing the steering column and the master brake cylinder. A lot of heat and hammer banging and it's not perfect, but will do.


Still need to put in the throttle and hole for electrical

 

Now that I have the holes for the steering column and the brake master cylinder, the instal of the two items.

I went with a Banjo style steering wheeland added bracing for the column to the brake pedel. I still need to fab a break pedal pad.


Better view of the column and break pedal bracing.


Outside firewall view of the column and master cylinder. Finished out the brake lines to the body.


Better view of the brake lines attached to the firewall. I'm using flex lines to connect the brake lines to the frame.

 

Just read the whole thread! You are a very creative builder and I am challenged to up my game. Thanks for sharing your skills.

 

Thanks Bugguts....

 

Finished running the other frame mounted brake linses to the flex lines




Next was to mate the body to frame for steering box to column linkage.




Steering linkage fab'ed up, the hot rod has steering.

 

Installed some front blinkers today.

The camera angle gives the illusion that they aren't centered.


I went with a bolted mounting bracket, I have a feeling I'm going to maybe go with a different style later on down the road.


For now these will have to do.

 

I got a couple more items knocked off of the to do list.
My good friend, you all know him as Flathead John gave me a E-brake that we think came off of a 30's Ford truck.
When I got it, it was about 2 foot long, so I took about 12 inches out of the length. Modified the mounting bracket to fit my car.


Top view


Added a 3/8 inch x 2 inch flat bar to the underside to put more stiffiness than what the floor could provide.
It allowed me to tap for the four 5/16 bolts, which need to be cut a little shorter.
Now to run the E-brake cables, and weld the doubler brace to the bottom floor.


Next item on the list was the foot throttle, of course it had to be modified also to fit the modified floor board/firewall.

 

I got a e-brake boot and of course it didn't fit around the mounting in the floor board.
Made a bracket to raise it 3/4" off the floor to clear the mounting bolts, it's mocked up
in cardboard right now.

 

Finally got the last part of the finished frame parts, transmission cooler lines.

I went with stainless braded lines.


I tried to keep them tucked up on the frame so you can't see them from the out side.


This is a little better pic showing the fuel and trasmission lines


I ended up removing the crimped fittings and used screw on crimp fittings to get the lines to fit without extra slack.

 

With no more welding or drilling on the frame, its time for a little paint.

 

while I'm waiting on some suspensions parts to be powder coated.

I finally got the passenger door mounted, and I have a few gaps to get corrected.


The inside hinges, still needs to be cleaned up before the inside bracing and electric window mounting brackets.


Latch striker pin in the door.


Latch in the body


Next is the driver door

 

The last few weeks I've been refining the door latch assemblies, it's taken longer than I thought.
Partly having to relocate the latch and striker pin.

The stricker pin was originaly inset into the door to deep to allow the window to go up and down. It's now set flush with the door.


Then I had to reset the latching assembly about an inch into the "B" pillor


With allignment of the door latch finished, it was time to figure out the outside door handle. The after market flush mounted door handles were a little pricey, so I came up with a keyed barrel lock. Not traditional, but it serves as a door opener and a door lock. To some it could look like a security alarm key.


Here is my internal door assembly, amazed it all works smoothly.


The whole assembly bolts in, incase anything wear's out I can remove and replace. Now to finish the passenger side.

 

Thinking outside the box- nice job!

 

After countless re-doing the door latches, I finally think I'm finished with the design.

If you notice all of the operating hardware is not in the actual door panel. Its been reversed so to give space for the electric window regulators. This also allowed for me to install a manual override in the trunk area.

View of the override pull cable in the trunk area.


With the door latch finished, I also got to installing the windshield wiper motor. Of course it didn't just bolt right up. The wiper motor alone didn't sit square or center of the channel it was suppose to sit. I had to machine a bushing with a 6 degree bevel on the body side and square on the side the motor mouted. This made it sit square in the channel and the wiper rod was now perpendicular to the windshield, and a plate to bolt the motor too.

Motor mounted, and I still have a lot of rust repair to finish, as you can see. Next is electrical harness and this project will be drivable

 

Great work!

 

Got a few more things done to the body.

Finally plugged up the hinge and door handle holes.




Side mirrors, front windsheild, rear view mirror, and finished mounting the wiper blades.


Inside view, mirror and wipper motors.


Still wating on wiring harness. Yea...my powder coated suppension parts are ready...picking up tomorrow.

 

I did get my powder coated parts back yesterday.


Front axle hair pins






Rear 4 link

 

A really stupid question. We’re the heim joints installed when the links were powder coated?

 

Love the frame & suspension. Panhard bar for rear?