https://www.ebay.com/itm/1161547074...kgIBFEbuoT0DulGcTKv6wkehg=|tkp:Bk9SR4yJgZ_NZA I considered buying these for the 327 I'm putting together but found double humps at a resonable price. These would be good for a 283. Gary
Read this thread. A lot of talk on getting good numbers out of a 283 . Big valves , cams , higher flow heads , compression and sticking it in a heavy street car with fairly high gears. This is not so bad if you plan driving it around in lower gears trying to make the HP it's now capable of. I must be getting old but unless I'm flogging out it hard all the time I want torque when I'm pulling a vehicle from zero to what ever realistic speed the road or traffic allows in nice driver like the OP has. I have fast stuff , radical stuff, low geared stuff BUT if I had the OPs nice car I'd be more concerned on how well it ran from 900 rpm to about 3100 RPM were its going to be actually driven and ran 98% of the time and want a little bit more power say up to a realistic 4000 RPM and a ability to not float the valves or come apart after it goes past peak HP. My opinion for what it's worth is build it for the seat of the pants low end acceleration for that short blast as you pull onto the interstate or such under real driving . A 283 is a lot of fun in a light hot rod with low gears. Bigger cars are better with torque . If that was my car I'd at least go 327 settle for a 350 and want a 383 or bigger in a small block and want the OD trans IF I was driving it a lot and going long distances in it and wanted low end grunt . Adding MAYBE a extra 50 HP with cam and heads on a 283 and that still runs on pump gas is only going to move the peak HP up the RPM range and likely cost it down low were you actually want it . So unless your planning on running it up to 5000 RPM every shift torque is king . I'd want a stick in then and OD so I could run at least a 3.73 gear I have had 283 and 302 SBC screamers and 327's that ran low 12s in a chevelle but they sucked for a daily driver if making big HP . With a automatic and 308 gears they would be total turds . I don't know what his 283 will over bore to but IF it can go 4" and take the crank id make it a 327. Even if it goes. 060 over and a 327 crank making it a over bored 307 in reality it's going be better with street gearing. Cost about the same. I have a .060 307 with forged flat tops in my 57 vette right now. I run mildly ported 461 heads with 1.94 heads and cam made for about 4500 rpm ( mild cam) it will run on regular gas but run it on no alcohol premium. I doubt any one here can tell it's short about 10 CI from a actual 327 with a slightly bigger bore . I'd wager a identical but 4" 327 only makes maybe 10 or so HP more with same heads, cam, compression etc. It makes maybe 350 HP runs good Now add 2.02 valves that fit the 4" bore and the fact the valves are more unshrouded and you get gains and hundreds more aftermarket head choices . You pick up HP and torque. My opinion with today's gas limitations on compression ratios that affect cam choices and such. Bigger is better and torque is what I'd want in that car. Now if this was a 2000 pound roadster with 4.11 gears and 4 speed. Let that 283 scream
How high do plan on spinning it? 1.94 valves won't likely hurt but there of little help if it's got a tiny cam and will never see 5000 RPM. Defining the goals you seek should dictate the cam, heads , intake gears stall if its a automatic. How do you plan on driving it ?
Just a cruiser with an occasional " get on it" ...and it would be nice to be able to occasionally do a 2 wheel peel. Lol..I'm thinking just dp 1.84 valves and go with that.
I also still need to figure out the gearing just havnt gotten around to it. Id likento be abl to cruise at 70 with out winding the hell out of it. 4 spd muncie
For my 64 impala, I drove it for a few years with the stock 283 and 2 barrel and powerglide. Eventually my Pops and I swapped in another stock 283 with a 4 barrel. What a difference. It drove essentially the same, but when I stomped on it at a light it would twist up the left front corner a little, and sound great. That was 30 years ago. Still have it. 1000005957 by NoSurf posted Jan 4, 2024 at 7:55 PM
Yeah...I'm betting just some mild upgrades will wake it up a little...I'm definitely over complicating it a bit.
Depending on if your willing to buy premium gas I'd get the compression up around 10-1. I'd likely go with a small cam that allows a stock stall converter if you have a automatic. It will sound better to . I'd go with a 600 ish CFM carb on a dual plane manifold . I'd likely go 1.95 valves but your not gaining much if its not reving past 5,000 rpm if even more. Honestly lower gears and a OD that allows freeway speeds will do more for the car than any thing really radical. Look at what a 50's corvette 283 does they had the same engine pretty much with a cast iron PG in a much heavier full size chevy and they ran OK . Cams have come a long ways since as have transmissions . I had a 61 Impala with a 283 and a power glide had 11-1 compression Team G intake 650 Holley and a 30-30 solid cam. It sucked with 308 gears and the power glide sure it would rev but I was doing 100 by the time it got there . LOL. 3.73 gears and a 4 speed made it fun but then it was no good on the freeway for long distance. What it needed was a 5 speed or a auto like a 200 4r with good lower gears. It got a warmed up 350 and it was better down low and more fun IMO. I had a Camaro with both a really hot 12-1 283 and a 302 with a m22 and 4.11 gears a blast to drive if you were not really going any were.
57-up 283 power pack 4 barrel heads had the single triangle on them. In 64-up, 65 for sure, these were used with a Rochester 2 barrel for 195 HP. They were also used with the lower HP 327’s. I used them on street rebuild engines because there were millions made.
Yeah like I said I dunno the rear end ratio yet..but always felt like an overdrive would help a great deal on the highway. Its terrible on the highway.
I would like to bump the compression up a bit. I always run 90 or 91 in it cause usually all I can find in non ethonal anyway
Depending on uses. If slamming gears like an off the wagon drunk slamming whiskey I'd try something else. If just a cruiser occasionally driven in anger it'll be fine. My personal preference on a factory five speed is a nv3500. Newer and more available. Plus bellhousing is built in. Downside is they shift a lil more like a truck. But direct swap into 283 came on 94+ S10 and like 91+ Silverado. Imo 96+ Silverado is best donor as the case is smaller than S10 version and it has an internal slave cylinder
It is all about expectations, time and money . . . you have to make some decisions on what is most important to you and how much you want to sink in the end-to-end powertrain. Without a budget and set of clear goals, we're all just pissing in the wind!
With your bench seat you need the forward shifter positions. The best bench seat T5 is a hybrid 3rd gen Camaro NWC T5 with an S10 Tailhousing, shifter rail, and mainshaft To do this properly you really need to start with 2 transmissions to make one. This starts getting costly and makes a TKX Tremec look attractive Just do what the factories did in the late 70's, and use a wide ratio Super T10 and a 3.08 rear end. A Super T10 "Z" ratio [ 6 rings on the input] will literally bolt up with your existing shifter ,rear mount ,driveshaft and speedo drive. You'll need to swap the clutch plate and driveshaft yoke for the different spline count Borg-Warner Super T-10 Z-code = 1st 3.42 ,2nd 2.28 ,3rd 1.46 ,4th 1.00 even the more common Borg-Warner Super T-10 Y-code = 1st 2.88, 2nd 1.74, 3rd 1.33, 4th 1.00 would be OK With a 3.08 rear it the 283 will still be nice and crisp around town , and cruise at 70 mph at 2800 rpm The Borg-Warner Super T-10 Z-code was available in 1982 Z28 Camaros [305 4 speed] which had a 2.73:1 rear end ratio AND if you don't like the results ,you still can easily swap back the diff head and Muncie trans [it is bolt in - bolt out]
I always hesitate bringing this up due to the fact that the budget factor of these builds is usually what dictates peoples' component choices but at this stage of the game finding an OEM Super T-10 could be a challenge, not to mention expensive, real expensive if the sellers' claims of being rebuilt aren't factual. The Richmond series of Super T-10's offer a number of gearing options to match up to various drivetrain combinations. I bought mine many years ago when they were still (fairly) reasonably priced and no doubt have gone up in price, as has the cost of a new Hurst shifter.
https://northernautoparts.com/cart.php So this is what I wanna get...sound like a sound package to you guys? Went one step up on the cam as well
I'm currently building a 283 for my RPU. '60 pickup block with early 60's PP heads, Duntov 097, bored .030 over and 283 dual quad setup. Biggest mistake I've made was not working more closely with the machine shop. They decked the block but did not check piston to deck height. Even with shim head gaskets, my quench is .048", a bit too much. The 283 needs every bit of compression it can get, so if you do rebuild it, make darn sure you get the block properly decked to match your pistons. Best of luck!
X-2....... .a lot to be said for hopping up an old skool 283 but......whats the point when you add all the go fast goodies and 'nobody' can tell the difference on the out side between the two engines (except true Shivel-lay nuts that would be rude enough to point out all the tell-tale signs) "I woulda" went with a 350 to begin with but...what do I know I like FoMoCo stuff !! 6sally6
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