Major update to the build Ladies and Gentleman. Instead of the 1950 Mercury V8 flathead as originally planned, I have decided on installing the engine / trans combo you see in Post #170. I'll re-attach a picture here. Scroll back and you can see many pictures of the whole ***embly. There are a whole host of difficulties that need to be figured out, along with size and space constraints, and more parts to purchase that I have to deal with in order to install a 650 pound flathead V8 into a 22 inch wide tank. Minus 4-5 inches for frame rail width, that leaves 17-18 inches of clearance to stuff that bad boy in this tank. The smaller and skinnier Model A engine and trans combo will result in a much cleaner finish for this lakester, everything is already ***embled and refurbished, and it's ready for install. While it has less power, it weighs half as much. Using the Model A engine (while not as cool and probably disappointing to some) will be much better for this particular tank, and will greatly accelerate build completion time. I believe it will be a good fit, literally and figuratively and allow myself more space to install other components because this F5 Tigershark tank is TIGHT. This engine / trans combo is visually appealing, complete and ready for installation, and i'll also be able to gain a smaller, more streamlined finished exterior product than with the V8 flathead which was also important to me. The build will be more streamlined aerodynamically than it could ever be with the Flathead V8. It will still be a bad*** build, but maybe down the road, I'll plan on installing that V8 Flathead into a P38 Lakester build. Maybe we'll have a round 2 later on! The Model A engine and trans combo is in a separate location from the lakester (not bad, about 10 miles away), so I'll have to relocate it before I can begin with this new direction. Overall, this will make for a MUCH easier build process and net a MUCH quicker completion date for the lakester as a whole. The belly tank is scheduled to be displayed in the Ocean City, Maryland Convention Center for Endless Summer Cruisin' in October 2025. Time's-a-tickin!
You have made a wise decision, it's not final as you can still go another route later. Mine has a Willys Jeep engine at 134cid (only because i'm a Willys guy) but the size has made it easier to build. I could fit a SB Chev in mine. JW
Not too much of an update here, but I finally found some weekend free-time, and made some forward progress to the build yesterday, Sunday Jan 26th. With some help, I relocated the engine and trans. The lakester and its newly decided on power train are re-united once again. I had the engine / trans tucked away in storage in a shed. Now that they are together, I can continue plugging away at the lakester and can start figuring out the hard mounting location for the engine and trans. Happy to get this move out of the way.
I moved. AGAIN! It seems like every post now is me moving the lakester to a new location. The good news with this move? Well, this move is permanent! I found a great property for myself in Northwestern Maryland in the mountains. I've been in a temporary living situation away from my belly tank for the past year and a half which wasn't conducive to building. Well, I just recently closed on my new house and it comes complete with a 2000 sq ft shop with PLENTY of breathing room to finish this build. It feels so good to finally live with my belly tank once again. Time to get this project working again and make some serious progress. I have some major work to do! In the spirit of build continuation, I have purchased this sweet, period correct Stewart Warner 6v Model 235b Electric Fuel Pump this morning off eBay. My stock-style 1928-1931 Model A block has no fuel pump pad as they weren't introduced until 1932. I wanted to run gravity feed, but with this build and packaging requirements, the fuel tank outlet will be sitting below the carbs which is a no-go so I'll need some help pushing fuel. This period correct low pressure pump should work great. I will be aiming to use copper fuel lines as well as a gl*** sediment bowl. I will be focused on keeping this build as period correct as feasibly possible. I will need a fuse for my electric fuel pump, so I am planning to use a 1/4" X 1 1/4" 10A gl*** fuse positioned in a bakelite holder. I will not be running a blade style fuse. Those were created in 1975. Can't do that! Enjoy this update and some pictures from the move this past week. Check out the lakester's new home! Finally have room for all the toys under one roof again, complete with a paint booth, which i'll be retrofitting for powdercoating. Peep the new stablemate. Really looking forward to getting this build finished. I'm long overdue. In the coming days, i'll be removing the torque tube and getting the rear ready to mate to the trans, as well as welding the front end suspension support structure together so the car can move under its own weight. Time to Rock and Roll!
I was just thinking about this build thread the other day and couldn't find it to check up on it. Congratulations on the new shop, lots of potential! I look forward to seeing the bellytanker build continue
I need some guidance here. Back to needing ideas to mate my 1935-1948 banjo rear end to my early ford top loader trans. I need to connect my 1-1/8" Inside diameter female 6 spline transmission output to a 1350 series u joint to work with the hot rod works 6 spline open drive shaft conversion. Here are a couple links to what i'm considering. I need to be able to purchase everything right off the shelf. On the rear end side I am considering these. https://hotrodworks.com/products/p/1935-1948-ford-open-driveline-conversion-kit-6-spline ****er 1350 U-Joint - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UJSUJ331 Again, for the transmission side, I need a MALE 1-1/8" 6 spline shaft to slip inside the transmissions female end. Who else has gone this route and what did you do? I do not want to shorten the stock torque tube, and would prefer to avoid machining or welding at all possible here. After I can get the rear and transmission mounted, the build should start progressing rather quickly.
@Superlite I used the HRW open drive conversion on my '40 banjo. Seems like a great product (haven't run it yet). Well made and fit perfect. You will need to vent the rear end when you do this conversion. I vented on the aluminum housing from HRW before installation to avoid drilling into the rear end and dropping shavings in. For the transmission end, I'm not understanding what you have. If it's the stock closed drive U-Joint, I don't recall seeing an off the shelf solution to convert it to open drive.
I ordered the HRW 6 spline open drive conversion for the 35-48 banjo rear end over a week and a half ago and order is still pending fulfillment. Are they out of business? I can't get anyone on the phone, their mailbox is full, and I can't get any updates. I feel like i'll never see that money again, or the part I ordered
Still open.Talked to Ryan at Hot Rod works a couple of weeks ago and he said he was super busy. Was looking into getting some help.
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