Passed a new milestone today. I sold the last 3rd member on e-bay for $430.73 bringing the new total to $4769.20! Finally below 5 grand for the car. That was the last big ticket item so it might take a while to get below 4 grand but I think it's still do-able.
Time to do some body work. The car came with a patch panel for the crunched and cracked right rear quarter. If I was a real bodyman I could straighten out and weld all the cracks on the original panel and fix it, but I'm not. I fit the patch over the fender and it covers all the questionable areas so I cut off the offending parts, and with a little tapping here and there to snug things up a bit, I think it's going to be perfect. Of course I should weld it on but from my past experience when I do that it makes a ton of work to grind the welds down and straighten everything that I warped, and it just isn't any fun. I bonded it with panel adhesive and a few clamps. No warpage and very little filling afterwards.
Hello, That project of yours is a good one. There have been many versions of the project x Chevy and each one has its own characteristics. We have seen plenty of yellow 57 Chevy two door post models all over So Cal. Each yellow was different and each had different looks as to their own version of what was what in their eyes. Some even went to the modern version of larger wheels. But, for a guy who grew up as a teenager in 1959-64 driving around in a nice 57 Chevy Bel Air Hardtop, it was one heck of a car. It was the most modified of all of our teenage cars and the parts were plentiful for us. After the original project X car came out many years later, people have had their own versions along the way. Despite, having almost lived in a white 57 Chevy Bel Air Hardtop during our high school teenage years, the stock look of 14 inch wheels or 15 inch versions were the best looking. We tried mags, chromies, slots, etc. But, the pocketbook and styles all came back to small hubcaps and colored white or black rims. The mode of the teenage 57 Chevy Bel Air was modifying the motor and driveline for top performance. Headers, dual quads, Traction Masters bars and a special 4 speed transmission as well as a Positraction 4:11 gearing when necessary. It was the second fastest sedan in Bixby Knolls and around those cruising areas. My friend was so fast that his 4 speed shifting was as if a modified Hydramatic was in place instead of a modified 4 speed transmission. The term smooth as silk comes to mind. Jnaki For us, it was modifying what was there as long as the money was coming in place. A clean white 57 Bel Air was a good start. Your 57 post model is very popular and if the accessories are stock version, then it will at least have some authenticity. The design with 14-15 inch wheels is the best looking as it was originally styled as such from the factory. Those larger wheels we see on some 57 Chevy models just make it look like a Hot Wheel or zapped out Matchbox car... YRMV Note: For all of the lowered VWs and vans cruising around back in the late 60s and early 70s, there was this one kid who inherited his first car from his dad. The dad had moved up to a newer foreign car sedan and gave his son the yellow two door post Chevy sedan. Back then, there was no Project X and it was his dad’s choice of bright Yellow color for his hot rod. But, instead of buying a lowered Honda, VW or 4x4 truck, he gave the 57 sedan to his son. The son was in heaven and did his best to keep it in pristine condition. He had moved up to saving for a set of 5 spoke S&S wheels, but that was all he could afford. So, despite the majority of the teenagers in other cars, this yellow two door post model was one of a kind. His dad did a lot of work and now, it was up to the son to keep it in great condition. He took a lot of ribbing from his friends, but he persevered and was a kid for a good eye in daily drivers. Our family moved to another city and we lost contact with the teen, now 30 something guy with the only yellow two door post model Chevy in the area. It did stand out among the scurrying everywhere, lowered VWs and raised, 4x4 trucks of the time period. Perhaps we will see it one day as it was made back in those early days.
A thin skim of filler and it looks good! I would guess it's less than an 1/8th thick in most places. After a coat of polyester primer it blocked out pretty good with just a few low spots. The roof had been used for a dance party at one time and had about 6 dents in it that needed to be worked out. After that a heavy coat of primer and this portion of the car is basically ready to final sand and paint.
Here is a small example of the condition of the car I'm working with. On the end of the door is an oil change sticker with a date of 5/3/71. The significance of this is that the sticker is on top of the Bronze color. Indicating that the car was painted Bronze prior to 71. The original paint was less than 14 years old and the remains show no signs of deterioration . On this door I've sanded off the outer layer of White and the second layer of Bronze down to the original Beige factory paint. The point is that I feel the original paint is a good foundation for my top coats, no need to remove it down to bare metal. Also of note is the station was in Santa Rosa California.
With the body in primer from the cowl back, I've been working on front fenders lately. The non original blue right fender was pretty good except for the lower corner, but with the patch panel I picked up earlier installed it came out quite good. The left however required much more work than I had anticipated. I had a spare gray fender that had rot in the lower corner also but at first glance it looked straighter. I worked on it for a while before determining that the white one was better. Back working on the white one it seemed I had been to hasty in switching and went back to the gray one. Then after a time I went back to the white one. So frustrating! They both had some pretty serious issues but the white one was better by a small margin(after about 4 hours of work). I glued the patches on with panel bonder and they turned out decent. A couple of primer coats and they will be ready.
Bonded? Exactly how did was this done? I don’t see an over lap. Did you place a step on the patch or is there a strip of metal over lapping both patch and fender?
The patch panels had a stepped flange across the top so you can overlap the parts. I used 3M panel adhesive to glue them together. I asked the salesman how much to overlap them and he said the factory's just use 1/4 inch. That didn't sound like enough to me so I used about 3/4 inch. I've used this stuff before and it works amazing. If I welded it, it would be a mess.
I sold the new Centerforce clutch kit and the QA1 shocks off the front of the car for 369.77 on E-Bay. That brings the total purchase price of the car down to $4100.08. That's a loooong way from the 30 grand I paid for the thing last February. And to think I was nervous about paying that much for the car back then. Whittling it down slowly.
I primed the hood this weekend. I had a similar problem choosing which hood to use like I did on the left front fender. I had 4 to choose from and finally settled on the original hood from the car. It had a dent in it from a dance party like the top and trunk did, but was still the best of the bunch. I'm getting close to painting but still need some inner fenders. Once I get those I can assemble the front end and set the panel alignment and start to prep for paint. Goal is to paint by Christmas.
Well things have been progressing a little slowly lately. I finally got some color on the car. You'll notice I didn't paint the lower half of the car. That's because it a two tone deal. Not real obvious in magazine photos but still there if you look. It has pinstriped off panels on the sides that are a slightly orange-ish yellow. I also was trying to conserve paint. I used some of that Summit Racing single stage urethane on it because it's only $108 a gallon(I'm cheap, remember) and it turns out it doesn't cover great. I'm glad I did it because there is not a lot of paint left over. Maybe a little more than a pint. Anyway, It sprayed OK after I thinned it down double or so more than recommended. They recommend only a maximum 10% reduction but that sprayed like pudding. 25% was a lot better. After some buffing I'll be ready to put some chrome on it before masking for the next color. The pin-striping follows the outline of the trim so it will need to be in place to get it right.
Man, I can't wait to see the panel paint and panel striping on this, My favorite version of Project X....
I guess I never noticed that it was panel painted in that version. Definitely my favorite now! Can’t wait to see it in final paint.
This is a great tribute to the original. Enjoyed seeing how far down you have gotten the cost of the project. It will be a fun car for you to drive.
This is already amazing but is getting better with each update. When this thing goes on Power Tour and Drag Week I know it will draw so many people you won't be able to stir em with a stick haha
Fenton was putting wheels on X in the era you're going for. One style prior to the lettering then Hustler III. The early ones would be hard to find! They would look smashing on your car, though. Straight 5 spokes would, too. What are your rolling stock plans? Interested HAMBers want to know!!
Oh boy! I just went back and read the entire thread. I started reading PHR and Super Chevy when I was 10 years old in 1984. Project X was the first project car I followed. I lost track of it in the last 20 years. After seeing your fantastic thread, being around Lloyds 55 wagon (@Lloyd's paint & glass), and Steve’s nasty 57 (@chevy57dude), I believe I’m going to have to have a Tri-5. Little Truckdoctor wants a Tri-5 in the worst way as well. Your thread is awesome and an inspiration.
It didn’t work out for VD Larry, but in the way he got to start the restoration of the Golden Sahara after building his “Voodoo Sahara”, I think you should be first in line to undo all of the horrible stuff done to the real ProjectX over the last few decades. Excellent progress and great work!
A little trim is so motivating! The stainless trim went on pretty smoothly but the rear bumper was a little challenging. The left corner pulled in towards the body and the right side angled out at the front. I stuck a 4 foot long 2x4 in the back up light hole and pried the ends into line. Had to elongate some holes but it's close now. The mounting hardware off the fiberglass bumper was reused. The previous owner lightened them with a bunch of holes and used all aluminum bolts, nuts and washers! I didn't even know aluminum bolts were a thing. I substituted steel hardware. The fuel filler "box" was too rusted to reuse so I got a repro and when I tried to put it in it didn't line up with the holes. Some work in the vise and it came around but why can't they make stuff that fits?
This is the second Yellow tri five you have owned since i have known you. How many tri fives have you owned?
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