A couple of weeks ago, I took the practically brand new 6.00 - 16 tires off the '48. They would have been perfect except for the weather checking and cracking. Even the tubes had cracked around the valve stems. The real problem was the over length and undersized lug bolts on the left rear corner. When I got the wheel off, three of the bolts were loose in the hub. I was afraid that the holes in the hub were wallowed out. They all came out with nothing more than a hard tap to the bolt. I measured the holes, and they were all still good, so I ordered a new set of bolts (part # 01A-1107-A) from Carpenter. Right in the description it says that they are .57" longer than OEM. I was thinking that the extra length would be in the thread, but the shoulder length was longer also. After I installed them, there was so much of the shoulder sticking out the there was no way the lug nuts were ever going to seat on the wheel. A temporary solution was to put a 1/4" wheel spacer on. There is no way to get spacers behind the other three wheels, there's not enough threads on the original lug bolts. I've looked and can't find original length lug bolts, so what is the fix for this? Do I buy more overlength bolts and run spacers on all four wheels, or is there somewhere else I can buy originals? Original length bolts New lug bolts New bolts with 1/4" spacer Wheels with new bolts
Dang, I have two sets of bolts for 46-8 front drums and hubs. Guess I better check before installing them. They were from Carpenter as well. Anyways, Dorman lists by all sizes, serrated and not flat like originals though that I could find when looking. But should still work.
Stock ford studs are swedged in. You need studs from Dorman that are serrated as Budget 36 said. You also have to drill the hole out and press the studs in, not a loose hammer fit. Dorman 610-034 studs and a 39/64 drill bit will work. You will need to remove the hubs to do it properly.
First, your picture shows a 40 hub and drum, not a 48. Here’s how I addressed new studs in some 40 hubs. Scroll down towards the bottom of the thread: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-studs-in-40-ford-hubs.1128114/#post-12806560
Carpenter sent me the bolts in the first picture on the first order. They are too fat and have no serrations. When I re-ordered, they sent me the serrated ones with the flat side. They pulled in tight and would be okay if not for the extra length. Thanks for the info. I did read the whole thread you referred to, and I'm not real sure what I've got going on here. I was told that the owner previous to the man I bought the car from had done something to the rear hubs that would allow him to remove the drum without removing the hub. It does work that way on this vehicle. I backed the brakes off and removed the drum. Then I knocked the studs out and installed the new ones by pulling them in with an impact. I made sure that the flat side of the stud heads were located correctly before pulling them. The OD of the serrated part of the shoulder is correct, the brake drum is hub centric, and the new bolts are in the proper pattern. I'll keep looking for the correct length bolts, but in the meantime, will using the new bolts and a spacer cause a problem?
Your new studs are more than likely intended for use with new cast iron drums. Your stock drums are composite with a thin steel center and a cast friction surface.
It’s been a while since I’ve had to deal with this but I wonder if the studs you got are for this style drum and hub which I believe is a 46-48 hub. I may be wrong. Also maybe the studs are same for 40 and 48 I don’t know but I suspect that may be the problem
I have found and still have some Ford lug nuts that are counter board on the wheel end at least 4 threads deep. I always thought that was strange but maybe this is why. I have never found New lug nuts like them but if I needed some I bet I could do the job to new ones just as easy as Henry did it.
Since the lugs are mounted Tape the threads Carefully use a file to reduce the shoulder thickness to the outside diameter of the threads. Use the correct die and thread it down to the desired length
I’d ***ume they were put in a lathe and bored some? But that seems like a lot of work for the number of lug nuts needed.
They came from Ford this way so hard telling how they done it but I'm sure it was by the thousands. When what you have don't work, you can't seem to get what you need and a wheel spacer isn't an answer you gotta go with what you have. alanp561 seems to have very few options left. Thank goodness it's only 5 lug nuts. Seems simple enough to me but I'm not you or alanp561.
I suppose I should have checked the other side before posting this thread, but that's my project for this morning. If the studs are the same type as the ones I installed, I'm going to order 5 more and run spacers on both sides. If they aren't, I'm going to crack the seal on a new bottle of Scotch and think about something else.
I'd try to replace the original tapered seat lug nuts with bulge seat lug nuts, they probably wouldn't run down as deep into the wheel so you won't run out of thread before the wheel is tight. Cheap and easy to try.
Well, I never should have checked the other side, the studs had 1/2-20 flat nuts holding the studs in place and for back-up, there was a wad of JB Weld on each one. To make matters worse, I thought I had a new bottle of Scotch. I guess I'm settling for beer.
Dang, there's nothing worse than uncovering butcher work. So, I ***ume you will get some new serrated lug studs and deal with the shoulder length? Thats the direction I'd go. Before installing them, I'd chuck them up and turn the shoulder back the necessary amount and get some tall lug nuts to have good thread coverage. Then I'd do the same to the first 5 and forget the wheel spacers.
If you're wondering how to chuck them in a lath it's simple. Standard 1/2" 20 machine nut and a 1/2' 20 jamb nut. lock them together as shallow as can and grab the standard nut in the head. Now you can turn the shoulder on center as needed.
@Budget36 and I are working on something similar to what you said. I checked the holes, and they are at 0.57". Now, the problem is that the shoulder on the studs I got from Carpenter are at 0.56". By the way, if anyone is considering using JB Weld to hold the studs in the holes, the first one I used the impact on fell out of the hole and inside the drum. It only took a light tap to knock all of them out.
To use the slip on drum style you have to have the hubs on the inside. If your hubs are on the outside you have to use swedge on factory style studs. I used new aftermarket drums, but have opened up old drums to make them slip on. Find the biggest hole, find a stud that will fit (or be a close oversize), get a reamer and go to town. Press in new studs, open up the drums (another reamer) and then sit back admiring your handy work with a cold (beer, water or Coke, your choice). ***Note: do all 4 wheels and save yourself the headache later.
I Would check with Third Gen Auto Parts. He has an extensive and authentic hardware branch. Been told "Pleasant folks to deal with".
Even if you don't have a lathe, I'm sure you can find a machine shop would be will to do it. Cost could be an issue, I'm not sure what rates are around your area, but I do like the turning them option.
Measured the holes in the hub this morning, and they are 0.56 to 0.57. After a lot of searching, I found that Dorman #610-395 bolts will work. An adjustable reamer will get me to the size hole I need. This used to be a lot easier when you could run to a salvage yard and get all the studs you needed for practically free. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions.
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