Make sure you coat the Speedy Bleeders threads with thick axle grease or the like so no air bleeds back in threw the threads. I see no reason you can't leave them in BUT they might not work properly the next time out in the eliments.
"Yes I agree, spelling mistakes everyone makes, however calling everyone a bunch of amateurs for using a method he didn’t know about is a little out of line as well. Could have been worse he could have called us "Garbage"!
The bleeders come as-is with coated threads. You don't remove them or you'll need to bleed the brakes again [for the very same reason you recommended thick axle grease] He wasn't out of line ... there is nothing wrong with endorsing "good ol' basic mechanical skills" Usually the best people with these skills don't have the best written skills [and the ones criticising are contributing next to nothing to our "talent pool"] It is just an "ego thing"
why not grab a semi-interested kid from the neighborhood or niece, nephew or grandkid to help. you could explain the brake system to them while you're at it, maybe get them interested in our hobby, or at least instilling a bit of knowledge so they don't get taken at some repair shop in the future.
Yes, their coated but with dry/granule "stuff" that works for a couple times in & out, after that they need "lube".
I usually start with the gravity system (anything I work on has a firewall mounted master). When I get that done, I'll see how the brakes feel. If more bleeding is needed, I get my wife or someone else (with instructions) to do the manual pedal and bleed process. Judging by the amount of brake bleeding issues posted on the HAMB, it appears there are problems with many bleeding processes.
Kerry, he was quoting my post saying it was a little out of line, I take the blame for that! in the end there are lots of different ways to bleed brakes, none wrong if it works
"Judging by the amount of brake bleeding issues posted on the HAMB, it appears there are problems with many bleeding processes." This is a true statement, I think it comes from many years of hot rudders finding newer brake parts and trying to "marry" them altogether into better system of yesteryear. No one bleeding system is going to work for every situation or person doing the job.
I used genuine Russel bleeders on my Road Race Corvette for 20 years and never used grease ever. Last time I cracked them I still needed a wrench to turn them once cracked. If you can spin the bleeders in your fingers after cracking them, then grease is needed. But noted: the grease trick is "A Must" on Corvette Delco Moraine calipers Brake bleeding is the least of the problems here The biggest culprit is "randomly machine gunning" mismatched components trying to "improve" things. Just count your blessings that ABS brakes is off topic here
Am I correct in my thinking that there are some folks out there that don't put some clear type pvc tube on the bleed nipple? Just let the fluid dribble or ejaculate wherever it likes? I saw one on the tube of u and thought wtf, what a messy way of doing stuff. A nice vertical loop of the tube let's you see the bubbles, or the lack of, too. I use a vac bleeder with clear tube but only pull the trigger once the nipple is closed off and I'm removing the tube. It evacuates the remaining fluid from the tube resulting in minimal clean up. Different strokes. Chris
This is coming from amazon. Less than $7 total and I'll give it a try. Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas, fellers!
Why freaking waste money on trinkets. If your wife is willing to get down and look under the car to watch bubbles she can pump a brake pedal while you open one fitting at a time and you can run your hose you have into a jar so you don't fluid on the floor and make a mess. Simply make sure all the brakes are adjusted corectly. Fill the master cylinder. Make sure you have the correct bleeder wrenches in hand. Have your wife SLOWLY pump the pedal until it builds up some pressure. Have her HOLD the pedal until you tell her to pump it again. Start at the furthest wheel away from the master cylinder brake line wise and open the bleeder and let fluid and air out. Close the bleeder and then tell her to pump it again. Open the bleeder again and close it and check the fluid level. When that one looks good go to the next furthest wheel. Without a pressure bleeder that is the best way to properly bleed brakes. The only issues I have ever had are helpers who want to pump the pedal too fast and a helper who didn't understand the hold the pedal down until I say let up. That was doing 15 or more brake jobs a week most of the time for several years. You can make a pressure bleeder out of a one gallon pump up weed sprayer and maybe one smaller than that if you can find one. Stores may be having their dump the out of season sale on them now. Some of that plastic line a cap for the master cylinder with a fitting to connect to the hose and a gasket that lets the fluid get to the MC. You don't need or want a lot of pressure and only need a max of 15 lbs. There are Diy instructions on Youtube and on the net. You don't really need a gauge but it is nice to have. That would let you do it right from the get go by yourself.
I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, I'm here to learn all I can. I have never heard to slowly pump the pedal. Seriously, thank you sir. Larry
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