rebuilding after the crash

They are a standard length bar. Four link bars don't have a impact like ladder bars. Ladder bars are usually around 32 inches. The bars do control the way it drives down track. Most fast cars are what we call rear steer. There's a few ways to do it. I have my crew man get in the car. I then adjust the upper left bar so the bolt slides through. When he gets out of the car I don't care how big the hammer is the bolt won't come out.
The other way is to have the car on jacks. The rear end hangs down and a full flat on the bars is put in.
Shortening the bar or making it longer steers the back of the car. You can make the car go right or left. With a good chassis the two ways I explained should be very close. I have always used the first. Good question.

 

I can't show the wheels. I used oven cleaner on the hoops. It removed the gold anodizing. I then polished them. So much better and it saved me 600.00 if I bought new replacements. The shock mounts are on. The housing is out. We are cutting it 4 inches per side. This gives us extra room if I ever want to put the big Bubbas on. 17 inch wide Bubbas. The housing is a real mopar Dana 60 40 spline axles steel caps billet yoke.

 

Doing hot rod stuff tonight.

 

I'm not one to usually tell people what to do, but that big grinder needs to be flipped 180*, if it bites then that big wheel will come running right at that guys forehead. I get he probably doesn't want a face full of sparks while cutting but the alternative is a face full of cut off wheel that is still spinning.

 

He switched when he cut the other side. It's a nasty cut off wheel. He is wearing glasses and a face shield. There is a steel sheet between him and the grinder. The last bit to be cut off was done with a small cut off wheel. Sometimes at the end of a cut they grab. I did show him your post. We have to do the other side. Thanks.

 

Right on, one thing I have noticed on this thread is the emphasis on being safe around this car as things can go south in a hurry. I figured it would be a helpful contribution which is why I spoke up.

 

Always appreciated. Everything about this car has a element of danger. We are always trying to minimize the risks. The other side was cut off without incident. It's ready to weld back together. We settled on four inches per side. The rims have a extra two inches of offset to the inside. These changes along with dropping the car down to its original height will really change the look.

 

The hard lifting is over. The frame was scrubbed down. The new shock mounts are on. The housing ends are welded. The carrier is back in. New axles are ordered. Total amount gained 6.5 inches per side.
What's left is new brake lines; wheel tubs; kill switch mounted; parachute re enforcements; touch up the paint on the housing . Some things had to be cut out or moved. Alot of progress in just a few days. It just worked out i had a four day stretch off work. Getting a idea on how it will look. I like it.

 

Just a suggestion for you. If you took an old Moon disc and epoxied three rare earth magnets where the dzus buttons go, then slap it on your rear wheel beadlock bolts before taking pictures of the side profile. Then we’d all get to see the “whole” picture for our viewing pleasure!

 

Looking again at the picture of the wheel well getting cut out I just noticed the string… I’m going to try to remember that trick!

 

I don't have a disc. If you would like to send me one i could work it into some pics.

 

Two points boxes and three coils were sent in to FIE to be checked out. They called to say they were good. Now I'm sending them the mag. If that checks out good it might be the wiring. It's only a ground wire and a switch.

 

I’ve had trouble with the switch before FIE makes a real good one that I installed in my car after i had them tune up my mag i haven’t had any problem since

 

I run a fie switch. They make two. I have the good one.
A thorough inspection of the wiring will take place.

 

Time to make new wheel houses. Cardboard is you friend. The metal will be rolled on the edge. Here's a few photos of the first side. The new axles will be picked up after work. I used Strange axles again. Gun drilled 40 spline lightened flange 5/8 stud.

 

Looking nice Brian , after tub / inner fender done , Take the cardboard
Make a circle 17-1/2 inch , tape to
wheel/rim So we can see a full iside view ,
With the new tire size ,
more dive & fuel can be added .

Race season all most over , maybe you can find a set of American Racing B-L
Pro Series To match the Front originals,
5 on 5 pretty common.
My B-L where made to order 8 months.

 

Thanks. I will do that. We work fast the first week of April will be here before you know it.
The lenco and blower servicing is next on the list of things to do. I plan on having both lencos ready to go. One with a 1.25 ratio the other with a 1.34 ratio. It's good to have options and spares.

 

Can you send me a picture of those wheels in a private message?

 

Yes I was going go post , I was thinking pic would be deleted

 

I am sure you know , But if Not
There are few good reputable company's that can convert wheel /rims to B-Ls
Single $300ish each
Double $600 ish each
I was going to have my
E-T Torque done,
I posted pics of different outer rings
On off topic Thread ,
WHAT'S YOUR FAVORITE OT WHEEL?

 

Scott Parks does deadlock conversions, and is right around the same price as Mac Fab, which is who most of the street car guys use.

 

Those wheels look cool. I will be on the look out for those centers.

 

Similar yet very different. I like to show some of the parts that most would never see. Today it's the axles. They showed up today so after work I ran to Illinois to get them.
These are 40 spline; gun drilled; light flange; 5/8 stud;
big bearing axles. That's a mouth full.
They are gun drilled down the center. This of course makes them lighter. Getting rid of rotating weight is always good. It also makes them stronger. The heat treating gets the inside and outside.
Modern axles today use a common flange end. A spacer goes on first. The spacers set the brake rotor in the correct place. Different spacers for different applications saves money not having to make all kinds of axles. Next is the sealed bearing. No need to set pre load with these bad boys. Then the rings get pressed on. These retain the axle and prevent it from sliding out. A big press is needed to get this together. Removing them requires that they be drilled and split with a chisel. They do their job very well. Last is the studs. The smooth area is 11/16. The studs drive the wheel. Its much stronger this way. A normal car setup uses a shouldered lug nut to drive the wheel. To keep fluid from leaking out of the axle a plug is pressed into the end of it. These axles can handle extreme power. For safety they are a must. The only upgrade from here is a full floater.

 

Rolling the wheel house panels. And then somewhere between all of this work the magneto was boxed up and shipped to FIE for a full checkup. It will be run on my boxes and coils to hopefully find the problem.

 

Making progress on the first wheel tub.

 

The Dana is together. New parachute cable brackets were made. More work on the wheel tub. The ground wire from the coil to the kill switch was pulled out and inspected. Looks good Only about 143 days until the chaos. Things have to get done.

 

There's alot of cool equipment being used along with a wide range of talents. This to me is real hot rodding. Anyone with a cell phone and debit card can order up a complete car. This is alot of work but also alot of fun. Putting skills and ideas to work to create your dream car is priceless.

 

Looks to be Double wedding bands per Axle ,If so why Double ,One in front & one behind Bearing , Is it for adjusting Axle depth splines into
Spool , then set bands ?
A bearing retainer is still required on tube of Axle
Correct ?

 

Brian Now your Race Rod officially off-topic!!!
@ least still a place to post for us the ones that change/use Modern Parts & try to Look 60ish ,
just in last 15 or so mints , Thread moved to off topic ,,,, So post More hard core parts
Wheel /Rim , tires , Lenco , air pods , double rails , front suspension ,data logger , Ext ,,,
""NO LIMITS KNOW ON PICS""