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Projects 1963LeSabre Brake Issues

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Anthony Herrera, Nov 16, 2024 at 3:04 AM.

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  1. proportion

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. residual

    1 vote(s)
    100.0%
  1. im keeping the drum/drum system for now! as its a budget build and my first ever build lol

    i drove it for 2-3 months with no issues and now the booster went bad

    replaced shoes all around , got my self this new dual master cylinder and booster and filter checked it to match my vehicle

    https://ebayvehicle.com/app/31PS

    bled the entire brake system about 2 times lol

    i tried to connect everything like the original system

    so i blocked the two left sides with plugs and connected the one brake line onto the new master and connected my original sensor

    my vehicle has one brake line connected to the master and goes down connected to a Tee line

    and well i thought i was good but im still getting spongy brakes ! pedal feels nice and firm as it should but as soon as i turn the engine on it goes completely flat!

    not sure if i forgot to add something ? not sure if that proportion valve i believe it’s called was supposed to go on ? really lost lol
     
  2. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,405

    Budget36
    Member

    Your link doesn’t work as you expected, well not for me anyways.
    Why the new MC if the booster went bad?
     
    Johnny Gee and Anthony Herrera like this.
  3. came all together as one is all
     
    Johnny Gee likes this.
  4. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 3,055

    SS327

    Are the brake shoes adjusted properly? When you bleed again does any air come out? How are you bleeding them?
     
    Anthony Herrera likes this.
  5. Baumi
    Joined: Jan 28, 2003
    Posts: 3,157

    Baumi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So you connected your single line system to a dual master, using only one port? Did I understand this correctly? Can you post a photo of what you have?
     
  6. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 13,420

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    ^^^^^ This is how I’m seeing it as well.

    We need actual photo’s from you, not a link from where you bought your supplies from to get a better understanding.
     
    firstinsteele likes this.
  7. Pictures... we like pictures... :D
     
  8. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 13,420

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

  9. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,493

    BJR
    Member

    So you didn't like the responses you got so you posted the same question again?
     
    Anthony Herrera likes this.
  10. naaa lol new to this page was trying to figure out where and how to post lol
     
  11. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,405

    Budget36
    Member

    Kinda at the top right of your thread, click on “watch thread” set it up to notify you-how you want.
    Then click on the notification and it brings back to the first unseen reply.
    Easiest way to find a thread you started.
     
    Anthony Herrera likes this.
  12. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,405

    Budget36
    Member

    IMG_1180.png See under your poll vote thing?
     
  13. yes shoes are adjusted and no air comes out when bleeding . bleeding w car off, pump 5 time and hold the pedal down while i bleed each side
     
  14. thanks for that boss!
     

    Attached Files:

  15. yes this is exactly what i think i did as well lol
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 13,420

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    I’ll say very little but I have to ask. How did you bleed the rear circuit??? IMG_3380.jpeg
     
    SS327 likes this.
  17. that one line that’s connected from master cylinder goes down to Tee line i’ll go take a pic right now
     
  18.  
  19. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,405

    Budget36
    Member

    Does that mean you don’t have a separate front and rear circuit?
     
  20. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 13,420

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    I understand what you’ve done. What I’m asking is, is there zero air left at the rear circuit of the master cylinder?
     
    SS327 likes this.
  21. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 3,055

    SS327

    That ain’t going to work there sparky. Split the front and rear brakes and get a chevelle proportioning valve and plumb it correctly. Or better yet find one from a GM B body 67 and up and use that.
     
  22. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 13,420

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    In theory it can. But never engineered to be used that way. Also if op got into an accident where braking would become an investigating issue. Well, op would be SOL.
     
    SS327 likes this.
  23. dave agosti
    Joined: Nov 28, 2019
    Posts: 89

    dave agosti
    Member

    I believe the second unused chamber of the M/C is the problem. I think both chambers need to have bled pressure.
    You are so close, eliminate the tee, and connect front and rear lines to the M/C.
     
    Anthony Herrera likes this.
  24. If they are both bled then it should work but at this point may as well split them
     
    Anthony Herrera likes this.
  25. okay will do !! i will need to add 2 10Lb residual valves to each line correct? one for front and rear?
     
  26. I'm not big on proportional valves myself. On something like this car, I would go distribution block.

    It is a lot less complicated. I have CPP one in my car. Summit sells a similar one for a little less. It takes a hydraulic brake light switch.
     

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