im keeping the drum/drum system for now! as its a budget build and my first ever build lol i drove it for 2-3 months with no issues and now the booster went bad replaced shoes all around , got my self this new dual master cylinder and booster and filter checked it to match my vehicle https://ebayvehicle.com/app/31PS bled the entire brake system about 2 times lol i tried to connect everything like the original system so i blocked the two left sides with plugs and connected the one brake line onto the new master and connected my original sensor my vehicle has one brake line connected to the master and goes down connected to a Tee line and well i thought i was good but im still getting spongy brakes ! pedal feels nice and firm as it should but as soon as i turn the engine on it goes completely flat! not sure if i forgot to add something ? not sure if that proportion valve i believe it’s called was supposed to go on ? really lost lol
Your link doesn’t work as you expected, well not for me anyways. Why the new MC if the booster went bad?
Are the brake shoes adjusted properly? When you bleed again does any air come out? How are you bleeding them?
So you connected your single line system to a dual master, using only one port? Did I understand this correctly? Can you post a photo of what you have?
^^^^^ This is how I’m seeing it as well. We need actual photo’s from you, not a link from where you bought your supplies from to get a better understanding.
Kinda at the top right of your thread, click on “watch thread” set it up to notify you-how you want. Then click on the notification and it brings back to the first unseen reply. Easiest way to find a thread you started.
yes shoes are adjusted and no air comes out when bleeding . bleeding w car off, pump 5 time and hold the pedal down while i bleed each side
that one line that’s connected from master cylinder goes down to Tee line i’ll go take a pic right now
I understand what you’ve done. What I’m asking is, is there zero air left at the rear circuit of the master cylinder?
That ain’t going to work there sparky. Split the front and rear brakes and get a chevelle proportioning valve and plumb it correctly. Or better yet find one from a GM B body 67 and up and use that.
In theory it can. But never engineered to be used that way. Also if op got into an accident where braking would become an investigating issue. Well, op would be SOL.
I believe the second unused chamber of the M/C is the problem. I think both chambers need to have bled pressure. You are so close, eliminate the tee, and connect front and rear lines to the M/C.
okay will do !! i will need to add 2 10Lb residual valves to each line correct? one for front and rear?
I'm not big on proportional valves myself. On something like this car, I would go distribution block. It is a lot less complicated. I have CPP one in my car. Summit sells a similar one for a little less. It takes a hydraulic brake light switch.