Register now to get rid of these ads!

Customs Brake problem

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Evets Eroom, Nov 18, 2024 at 3:21 PM.

  1. I bought a 1935 Ford pickup in parts. The previous owner put juice brakes in it. A 1940 rear end and drum brakes front and back. When I push on the brake pedal, it won’t build up pressure. I’ve bled the system several times, but still can’t get any pressure. The master cylinder is new. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 3,198

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Did you bleed the master cylinder on the bench first? This is a mandatory step as its almost impossible to get all the air out because all that happens is you just push the air bubbles in the master cylinder back and forth....
     
  3. No, I didn’t! I’m a brake dummy!
     
  4. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 3,198

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    Go to the parts store and pick up a master cylinder bleed kit, about 20 bucks at most.

    Pull off the master cylinder and bleed it according to the instructions either with the kit or the master cylinder as both mostly come with instructions to do it.

    I bet it cures your problems !!

    ..
     
    SPEC and skooch like this.
  5. There were no instructions, the previous owner didn’t send them with. I’ll se what I can find online. Thanks!
     
  6. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,496

    BJR
    Member

    If it's a single bowl master, you don't need to bench bleed, in fact some come with a tag the reads DO NOT BENCH BLEED. Why I do not know. Are the shoes adjusted correctly? That is the first thing to do before bleeding. Is there free play between the rod that goes into the master? If no free play it may not pump up. Also you need a return spring on the brake pedal.
     
    Dirty Dug likes this.
  7. I believe that it is a single bowl master. The shoes are adjusted. There is no free play between the rod and the master cylinder. I’ve installed a return spring. How much distance should there be from the end of the rod and where it contacts the master cylinder?
     
  8. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 10,496

    BJR
    Member

    1/32" to 1/16" is just fine.
     
  9. Thanks, I’ll give it a try.
     
  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,416

    alchemy
    Member

    Adjusting 40 brakes can be quite difficult. Especially if the shoes don’t fit the drums perfectly. But that shouldn’t mean there is no pedal.

    I suggest popping a front hub/drum off and looking for fluid leaking out of the cylinder past a cup seal. Some repro cylinders are manufactured wrong so the fluid inlet hole will be on the wrong side of the inner cup lip unless the shoes are adjusted out where they should be during operation. Basically if the cup is pushed too far in, the fluid will leak past.
     
    BJR likes this.
  11. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,439

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Also if you are still having issues after following the above directions.
    I’ve found that a lot of times you have to extend the brake rod into the master farther to engage the cylinder slightly.
    I’ve made my own air bleeder.
    Drilled a hole into an old master lid and attached a quick release on it.
    I apply no more than 5lbs at the air compressor.
    IMG_1248.jpeg
     
  12. Thanks!
     
  13. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,054

    Jeff34
    Member

    Pete, do you have a dryer on your compressor? I have one on my Plasma cutter that I use when I need dry air.
     
  14. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,439

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Good point Jeff. Yes it’s setup for painting.
    Moisture is definitely a no-no.
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  15. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,533

    RodStRace
    Member

    Another quick check is to disconnect the line (gotta to bleed anyway), hold your finger over the hole and slowly press the pedal. You should get a nice fluid push out of it. If not, bleed and recheck. IF it's a nice solid stream of fluid, bleed each corner and make sure you are getting only fluid. Inspect each rubber hose. Then dive into each corner and adjust.
    Here's the front. I'm sure there are other threads.
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/frt-drum-brake-adjustment-1940-ford.1280511/
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.