Technical 64 Chrysler 383, , Torque flight questions

64 Chrysler Town & Country wagon, 2.76 rear. Weak acceleration and early shifting. I haven't jacked it up yet to see if the kickdown is adjusted correctly, actually I'm thinking there isn't one due to not seeing it hooked up on the carb. This is my first venture into this section of Mopar and I could use some help. The engine runs great and revs well in neutral, just seams to not have ANY get up and go. I realize that the 2.76 aren't helping anything but come on man! We did just remove 275/60/15s and replace them with 195/75/14 all the way around and that seemed to help a bit but I would certainly expect more out of this engine.

 

I would make sure you have one as it will shift to early and have no power and also destroy the transmission.If its all there then we can explain how to adjust it correctly

 

No kickdown , won't take long and it won't work

 

It arrives tomorrow!

 

It’s an awfully big car with tall gears, the 383 in my 1964 Chrysler convertible certainly isn’t a powerhouse either. But from 60-100mph it pulls good.

 

It's the 1st time I have messed around with a Chrysler auto. Live and learn. Well with everything else dialed in and shorter tires I hope after tomorrow it's got more than the snails pace it has now!

 

Needs a Hilborn injection. Hehe.

 

The linkage to the transmission isn't a kickdown linkage, it is throttle linkage. It controls transmission operating pressure and shift points ( shift points are actually a balance between throttle pressure and governor pressure). If it is missing, the trans will be operating at 55 psi at all times and all shifts will be at minimum speed. Other responders are correct, if you drive it with the linkage missing it will eventually burn up the transmission.

 

Thank you

 

Try manually going through the gears and see if the sluggish response is improved. If so, then the TV linkage is either out of adjustment or not connected. The TV linkage is primarily for keeping internal pressures at the proper amount in regards to accelerator position vs governor. It also does perform the kick down process too.

 

Once you have installed and properly adjusted the linkage, go ahead and do a full tuneup on the engine.
Warm it up, check compression, replace plugs, set dwell, set timing, check advance, adjust carb.
I'll bet that there are more issues lurking that can hopefully be cheap and easy, getting you back into power.


More info
https://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html

EDIT: it's probably no longer OE, but when tuning it, also check the timing chain and gear slop. Bring the engine up to TDC clockwise, then rotate it by hand counter-clockwise, watching the dist. rotor. It shouldn't be more than about 10 degrees before it moves. Less is better.

 

The linkage between the transmission and the throttle lever is why TorqueFlites don't have vacuum modulators.

As far as an adjustment I'd recommend removing the spring and detaching the slotted threaded adjuster from the stud on the carb throttle lever. With the engine off, remove the throttle return spring and fully open the throttle. With the throttle fully open, push the T/V rod to the rear of the vehicle to its full travel.

Then adjust the slotted threaded rod end so the throttle lever stud will just slip into the rear part of the slot. You want full throttle pressure at wide open throttle. And don't forget to reattach both springs.

 

Very simple, physics -

In red above..........
Of course you have weak acceleration !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A 2.76 ratio is meant for long, high speed, highway runs, El Mirage, Bonneville, NOT for around town, stop lights, etc....in a HEAVY station wagon.

 

195-75-14 tires are pretty small for that big of car!

 

While many adjust the throttle linkage that way, the correct method is to warm the engine to operating temperature. With the engine warm and running at normal idle speed, transmission in neutral, adjust the slotted linkage until the slot just touches the pin on the carburetor linkage. Opening the throttle should imediately move the linkage. If you want to check the adjustment with a pressure gauge, the gauge should read 55 psi at idle and 90 psi with the linkage moved to the full length of it's travel. If you adjust to the WOT position you may have more than 55 psi at idle which will result in delayed and harsh shifts.

 

If you decide to service the transmission, be aware that you are able to drain the torque convertor. It should have 2 drain plugs. Torqueflites also have a "real" filter unlike the screen that most automatics have. If you drop the pan to change the fluid, be sure to adjust the rear band as they have a tendency to break if they are operated for a long period out of adjustment. The rear band is used in reverse and is applied at a higher pressure (150 + psi). When out of adjustment it really slams the linkage during engagement and can break the band. Also adjust the front band which will give you a crisp 1-2 shift.

All in all, the Torqueflite is a strong and simple transmission that is beautifully engineered.

 

Been over 30 yrs since I drove my grandmother’s 64 Chrysler Saratoga 2-dr powered 383 2-bbl. Had the same gears. IIRC, it was rated at 305 hp, and 410 ft-lb of torque with 10.1:1 compression. Had to use 94 octane fuel even back then or it would ping. It would lay rubber, and squawk/chirp going into second and sometimes third. Would keep up with the late 80s and early 90s “muscle” cars like the Ford 5.0 and Chevy Cameros/IROCs. Despite it being huge, IIRC curb weight was a respectable 3,800 lbs. Good luck!

 

Looks good !

 

I had 2.76 gears in an E body with a 318. It wasn't a stoplight brawler, but it would move just fine. Lighter weight, but less engine. Tune what you've got, fix any issues and enjoy.

 

Nice car

 

It belongs to my wife, TexasTrader on here.

 

Ft Lauderdale to Daytona Beach yesterday, ran 73 to 80 mph most of the day without a hiccup. I had to drive as Kim tore up her right knee last week.
The only downside to this car is it isn't mine, I sure wish it was!
Thanks for the tips and insight.

 

We got a best of 16MPG on this trip and we were loaded to the gills with tools, food and parts! Picked up an Edelbrock Performer 383 intake and plan to swap that in the next few weeks. Should we block the crossovers off or leave them open?

 

The big block mopar tends to like timing so when you get the transmission dialed in start with the timing.

 

With the ports closed it may affect your cold start driving and longer time for the choke thermostat to heat up and unload the choke(resulting in using more gas) With a correctly working heat riser and choke, I would leave the manifold crossover the way it comes from the factory. Even in Fla.

 

With the cast iron intake it is burning the paint off of the intake and is a hard start after running for 20 minutes at highway speeds . I can hear the fuel boiling...
1st crank of the day it pops right off and runs great in all temperatures.

 

I have the crossover blocked on mine with dual AFBs, lots of fun on the highway

 

Blocking the crossover will make it a stumbling pig until the motor warms up, if the weather gets cold. Some motors (its pretty much a motor to motor deal) are much more effected that others. It probably won't be as much of an issue where you are in Florida in the winter as it would be in northern IL in the winter.

If its burning the paint off the intake, you may want to be sure the heat riser in the exhaust manifold is moving freely, and the exhaust pipes are not restricted. Those old open vent carbs don't work well with the current junk they call gas these days. Might want to be sure the fuel lines don't run in areas where the heat from exhaust isn't stagnate around the fuel lines. Boiling fuel is addressed in several threads here on the HAMB.

 

Interesting I drive mine spring to fall, when temps are below freezing and can’t say I’ve noticed it’s a stumbling pig…