Projects Tomcat’s Crazy '31 Model A Build Thread (2010-?)

Last week I decided to add a couple of reinforcement plates to the rear of the fuel tank mounting frame underneath the floor at the rear right where the tank straps bolt down. Not sure if I even needed them, but sometimes instincts just take over. Made from 1-1/2" x 1/8" steel flat bar.





Bottom of floor view;


Then it was back to the seat belt mounting. Bored some 1" holes in the center support bracket.


The floor where the belt mounts bolt in is angled down at the front 6 degrees. The metal fittings that are sewn into the belts have a 15 degree angle built in. So in order to get the angle of pull straight on the belt webbing and get a reasonable installed angle I needed an angled connector bracket.

I started with some 3/16" thick flat steel "rub rail" brackets (left) from A&A Manufacturing. I modified them by narrowing them down to 1-1/2" wide, opening up the holes to 7/16", and then finally braking them to 36 degrees.




All this resulted in a 45 degree installed angle which seemed to pass through the hole in the back of the seat pretty well in different seat positions using the sliders. I actually wanted more like 60 degrees but It was not going to work.




I found some 1/8" thick x 2" diameter washers for the bottom of the floor to beef up the mounting points and prevent pulling through the sheet metal.


This morning I made a couple of 3" wide hoops out of some 1/4" dia. round stock that I will weld in to stop the shoulder harness from getting cut as it passes through the hole in the sheet metal and from yanking on the upholstery once it's all in place. Details, details!




It is now beer thirty. Cheers.

 

Made a template for the harness opening that I could move around and get the hole in just the right spot while I'm strapped in the seat.






Easily transferred to the panel.


Belt loops mocked up.


After finding the best hoop height and position the legs were trimmed and welded. The last two tabs were also welded into place.


Back to making some patterns for the outer sheet metal panels.

 

Hot as hell in the garage last week so not much got done. Was able to finish the sheet metal patterns for the rear bulk head this morning.

 

Well after three heat waves, a cracked radiator in my wife's car, and six days down with a back injury I finally got back on track only to open ANOTHER CAN OF WORMS!. It started with check fitting the garnish molding to the rear window.

Normally the molding is fastened to factory wood using wood screws all the way around. This car still has the original wood at the top and the previous builders used 1" square steel tubing for the ends and bottom but still used wood screws! None of the holes in the steel tubing lined up with the molding. Even tried flipping it over. It was on there when I bought it so go figure.

The thin body flanges are booger welded to the 1" tubing. Time for more surgery


Of course everything was coated in thick primers and paint.


And of course the surface the glass rubber sits on was basically filled with body filler


It got a bit ugly


This side came loose easier but is a mess.


I think I have a plan but it's going to take some doing to sort this crap out. Still waiting for the fun part to start

 

Do you ever stop and just say Shit.... I shoulda started from scratch? I have been there working on other people's builds several times. Beautiful work BTW.

 

So many times I lost count. Thanks man

 

Well, it's been a while since my last update so here goes. I stepped away from the Model A about six weeks ago to do some much needed exterior home repairs before the rainy weather sets in. Most of the following pictures are from September.

The old crappy 1/16" wall tubes were cut out.


New 1/8" wall tubes were fabricated.


An attachment for the slide hammer was made to pull the widow gasket sealing surface back into position and a sanding tool was made to open up the notches in the wood so the new tubes could be welded in square.


Opened up the notches about an 1/8" on each side.


Next step was to repair the body flanges which are very thin. About .030" thick. This side was done with TIG filler rod.


The drivers side was too far gone so I cut it down the middle and welded on a new piece. I made the new piece slightly larger and then trimmed it after welding. A copper backing plate helped pull the heat out and prevent burn through.




After some metal finishing some new .090" holes were drilled.


Instead of welding the body flanges to the tubes I used some 3/32" dia. steel pop rivets which could be removed if needed.


To prevent any future rust I painted the new tubes and around the window prior to welding, welded the tubes, match drilled and installed all the rivets.


Next was tap and drill for #10-32 screws at a 45 deg. angle to attach the Garnish Molding. Quite tricky to get it right.


The back flange of the Garnish needed a couple notches to clear two of the bolt heads.


Garnish attached with Stainless Steel slotted screws.


Finally that mess is fixed. Nucken Futs!

 

Looks great, nice work.

 

@Weedburner 40 Thanks man!

 

Here's a mostly finished shot of the rear bulkhead. Just needs a hole and grommet for the wiring harness and some paint.