I'm in a position where I can't sandblast or power wash this frame do to being "locked in" a small garage. I've scraped with a puddy knife, wire brush, used a wire wheel on a drill and a wire cup on an angle grinder so far. I've ordered and assortment of brushes and wire wheel type brushes How are you guys gettin down in the nitty gritty behind the crossmembers where it attaches to the frame ? End goal is to use Por-15 or similar product on the frame. .
It's got a layer of more dirt than rust on it that I think should come off before the ospho stuff. The truck did come from Fife, Wa. so maybe you have a better insight on the condition of the frame. I am amazed it still has factory black paint on it.
I have always used the tools you are using and just keep working at it. I like Eastwood rust Encapsuler. Por 15 also good.
Keep at it! May want to explore KBS coatings. Similar to POR15, but is, or was cheaper. Used it a couple times myself.
The cylinder brushes on the right can get in some pretty tight spots and the drill does the work. The rust busters on the left really clean but they won't get in tight spots and they don't last long.
When I did mne, I put a "skirt" of clear plastic (paint drop cloth) around the whole thing and snuck under it with my sandblaster. It worked pretty well and then I coated it with POR-15. That was in 1988 and it still looks good.
When I did my '49 Chevy truck, I just cleaned it the best I could with wire brushes, putty knife and a good scrub. I brush primed it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and top-coated it with Rustoleum gloss Smoke Gray or Machinery Gray, again with a brush. Years later, when I had the front clip off to rebuild the engine, it still looked good after being cleaned up. I changed it up to Rustoleum Satin Black then. Gary
Get it as clean as ya can and spray whatever on it. I’ve used converters, rustoleum rusty metal primer, rattle can encapsulator ……. They all worked.
That frame is beautiful...I sure wouldn't ruin it with that POR crap.... Truck in my avatar still has some of the same grime it had when the picture was taken 45 years ago. And no one ever sees the frame...and they love how the truck looks today.
Dremel's work in really small spots. Just be ready to burn up a few, and pay stupid money for the little wire brushes, sanding drums, and stones. I've destroyed several over the years,and spent thousands on the bits. I hate the damn things, but I'll use up a few cutoff Dremels before this night is over. I use the hell out of these weakass tools. Stock up on patience before you start, and try to take a break when smoke comes out and you smell it crying. EDIT... and I'm not talking about the "cheap" ones, I only fuck up the expensive ones. The blue pretend Dremels on Ebay aren't worth the box they come in.
I have these for the Dremel, they do get eaten up quick using them on other things 30 yrs ago in the mid 90's I painted my 41's frame with Mastercoat and it's still holding up great. I checked their website and none in stock and no hard date when it will be, I believe the owner is a member here. My t-bucket I used good ol Rustoleum and it's still fairing pretty well too after 19 yrs The Henry J I used Por-15 7-8 years ago and have some of there prep stuff left over and I have some of their primer that you can topcoat with any kind of paint left over from my thread about Por-15 reaction. My plan was to use that primer rust converter from them and topcoat with a satin black Rustoleum. I was curious if there were any new gizmos to help speed things up since I'm not any younger lol But I guess it's the same ol sweat equity with how I had been doing them.
The two biggest things that you need are patience and determination and you can do most anything. Good luck
In terms of sandblasting, it looks like all you really need to do is get access to some of the inside corners and around brackets and such. Build yourself a blast barrier. A couple of 2x4's, strapping and clear painters plastic (200 sf is $4 at HD). Lay a HF tarp on the ground. Just be conservative and spot blast. Don't hold the trigger for an hour! To address the large flat areas of the frame, Warrior polycarbide abrasive discs from HF will make easy work of it.......https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=polycarbide abrasive wheel 94017 Been there, done that! Yeah, I did mine outside but with the aforementioned blast barrier, 95% of the media will be contained and the indoor mess should be minimal.
Drill mounted stuff is a complete waste of time. You need stuff that mounts on an angle grinder, cupped brushes, scotch brite pads etc.. this is mine after a couple of hours work
When you say "Locked IN" do you mean you can't remove it from the garage and take it to someone to media blast it? I took just the frame and rear dif to a local business and they blasted it. They had it 2 days $250 bucks, no mess at my place.
I guess its all in what kind of finish you want. If you want perfect gloss, then work and keep on working, get it all bare metal and then prime then paint, If its a hidden frame that will be covered by all of the body, I would do the best to get all the major stuff off like you have done, any scale gets scrapped and wire brushed, Ospho converter, neutralize, then cover with POR or Eastwood, those two paints lay down nice and any imperfections under that will not show up, and all rust in those areas you are worried about would be encapsulated and neutralized already. I have seen some super beautiful finishes with just using the rust encapsulate paint and a topcoat. If you are building a show vehicle then I would say this method is probably not for you. Or just say screw it and do the paint encapuslator as it sits and it would be just fine, just not as pretty.
Another thing to mention, you are tight on space. Why in the hell do you have a gas pump, mock up block, and another engine in there. Get a storage building in the back yard or purge some of that, you will gain a shit load room to work more freely. Figure out what you want your garage to be and make some changes there will help a hell of a lot more in the long run for building. I build out of a 2 car garage and yes its tight, But the stuff that has no place here is clutter.
It looks like its in a spot where, with some wheel dollies, you could get it out that roller door behind?
This will be a shop truck, but not to sure if I'm removing the cab, would prefer not but who knows what will transpire as the build goes along, front clip definitely coming off. I just want to do a one and done type a deal on the frame, clean it, coat it with a rust preventer then satin black paint. I just moved all 4 cars, a bike and all kinds of parts and pieces to get the truck in there before our first snowfall and long 6 months of winter, so the truck is "locked in" the work area until it's done. Could there be more room, sure, can I build the truck in the current space, sure can, how was the space comment relevant to my question about cleaning the frame, no f'n clue. Finished the Henry J in there last year And the 41 in there this year So no show truck, no flawless paint job, just a good solid foundation that looks pretty decent when looking under the truck. Think of it as your 70 yr old skin draped over your 25 year old body lol
Sorry didn’t realise you were into bad weather already. if it was mine I’d just be scrubbing it down to get the loose stuff off then slathering it in por15 or other such rust covering chassis black and call it done. then you can get onto the fun stuff
It’s one and done if you don’t over think it Clean, treat rusty areas and paint If there’s an issue then it’s a simple rattle can fix If it’s “show worthy” then it’s a much harder fix We pressure washed the frame on my sons truck then wire brushed it. Rustoleum rusty metal primer then rustoleum satin black Nearly 5 years and still there. Touch up is a rattle can away. Simple
One of these on an angle grinder and hang on. Just bought one yesterday for the back of my frame pickup. Free acupuncture therapy when the bristles fly off into your leg.
I use a combination of shovel blade Xacto knife and little stainless steel wire brushes for tight corners. A stiff putty knife, regular wire brush, wire brush wheel in the sidewinder where it fits. On the big outer surfaces, I like the paint stripper wheels like evintho posted. Finally, sandpaper, blow off and wipe with lacquer thinner. I use a metal etching primer, usually Rustoleum or Krylon and Low Gloss Black, again, Rustoleum or Rust Tough from Krylon. Looks good for years, easy to touch up if needed. You’re lucky having the bed off, my last two (and the new one) were done with the bed in place.
The Jalopy Journal
