Customs What paint are you using?

Roberlo high solids.

 

Cut and buffed acrylic urethane single stage.

 

I used summits single stage for a driver type job about a month ago. First time trying it. I was impressed for what it cost. Didn't even buff it.

 

I use PPG because that’s the only real supplier we have
We have SW and Nason at the parts store.
Never had an issue with the product but the ppg store is run by guys that paint cars.
We use cheap Autobahn amd 5 star primers at school. They do ok. No complaints.

 

That's the thing, what's in your area, makes things a lot easier.

 

I have used Restoration Shop from TCP global in the past. Acrylic enamel as I was cheap. It works decent. I plan on using their urethane single stage on my ‘27 when it’s ready. We picked a solid green color out of their pre made color selection

 

The only local supplier is
Wesco Paint & Equipment
which is a national company with a terrible website.
There were 2 good places, but both are gone. I miss them, but they weren't turning a profit with my once a decade business. So I'm stuck with internet companies for the DIY market. Even the NAPA doesn't get into much more than what's on the site, although there is a new store opening here in town shortly.

 

One thing to remember about primers and cost.
Ive only had a couple that didn’t “shrink”
We use the PPS style cups with liners. When you let the unused primer dry in those liners, you’ll notice almost all will shrink as they cure.
Same with clears. Cheaper products generally indicate fewer solids and more solvents.
Polys seem to shrink less. A cheap urethane will shrink a good bit but is that a big issue? Probably only if doing quick collision work.
I’m going to allow any primer I use some time to shrink before painting.
Most of us home guys probably aren’t painting something this evening we primed this morning.
Keep that in consideration when pricing products.

 

2nd on the Tamco paint.

https://tamcopaint.com/products/sunkist-orange-pearl?_pos=1&_sid=73256701e&_ss=r

It seems to be a good quality system. I'm going to paint my 34 5w with it. The dashboard turned out great so far.

 

I guess you guys out west have it tougher getting materials due to the regulations huh?

 

I'm in a small town in AZ, so that's not the issue.
It's funny how many think it's the same as Chino CA or Chino Hills CA, both in the greater LA area.
All part of my subterfuge of hiding in plain sight!

 

Another thing you can check with those dried/cured "pucks". Is the flexibility or brittleness of similar products. And whether they have inclusions from off gassing in thicker layers.

I haven't used EPX in probably 15 yrs. But was told the same by my ppg jober at the time. That is was essentially DP. But, I always feel it was a little thinner than the original DP. They may also have more than one series of it. I was using the -900. Also from their commercial line is HBE-400. Higher build and much more sand-able. If you prefer/ need that quality. Though even their commercial/industrial line are priced considerably higher than they used to be.

 

I have two paint stores locally. One sells high end paints including Lumabase (personal fave for high end finishes) and the other sells ShopLine. I have noticed the difference but the ShopLine is much cheaper and still applies well. Their high solid clear is actually very nice but lacks the hardness of the 3:1 Lumabase clear.

I used the Lumabase on the gloss black '41 PU I painted last year but I think I will use ShopLine on the OT, gloss black, 4x4 I am painting in the spring for my daughter.

I am not a fan of buying online as I seem to constantly need more supplies (due to repaints) than I originally purchased and a quick run to the store when I need another can or two sure beats putting the project on hold waiting for a delivery.

 

I’ve had a couple ppg guys say EPX is DP.
It is thinner than the new DP and shopline. Probably cause of the 1:1 ratio. Lays down much better than any other ppg epoxy anyway
I’ve wanted to try CRE.
Haven’t priced any undercoats this year
Kinda scared to

 

I order all my stuff in. It's a pain, but I just have to plan ahead.

 

I did the quarters on my 53 two hours after priming because the nason sheet said I could and I wanted to test it. Normally I wetsand with 400 or da with 320 before color. While it applied fine I'll never do that again due to the resulting bumpiness lol

 

I have used SPI EPOXY ON TWO DIFFERENT PROJECTS BOTH CAME OUT GREAT.I ALSO LIKE THEIR UNIVERSAL CLEAR!

 

I've used both SPI, and Tamco. them both worked well for me and I'm far from being a pro.

 

I've used SPI epoxy with good results on my 40 pu.

 

Also used PPG on my phaeton. This was $28 a quart and the catalyst was $36 a quart' it took 2 quarts of paint and one half quart of catalyst.

 

House of Kolor SP1600 is a high build poly half the price of Evercoats poly and works great. Upol high build urethane primer is about $100 a gallon and works for me also. I have used Delfleet, house of Kolor kd3000, and restoration shop epoxies all with success. For top coat tcp global single stage urethane.

 

I may look into SPI. Looks like 3 days ground UPS.

 

Those sound more like pre-covid prices . . . Or your ppg supplier likes you, far better than mine likes me.

 

Solvent pops, fish eyes even odd particles in the paint can be caused by everything from products you’re using in the workplace, types of air compressor oils, air temperature you’re spraying at, and here’s a big one age of paint and hardener, mixed paint and opened clear coat along with hardener has a shelf life.
In the bodyshop we found that about a year or two for single stage was max and bace coat was about a year. Clear coat was up to six months depending on the type but production clear coat we tried to get it off the shelf as soon as possible. Hardener was the same thing but it was something that was always fresh for a large or complete spray. Most paint problems can be directly related to how the products are used and how old they are. I have sprayed in some really crappy environments and gotten incredible results. I also don’t believe it matters what brand of product you use as long as you’re not mixing old and fresh products or trying to be the chemist, and doing your own experiments.

 

Yes they were, but I checked about a year ago and they had increased about 30%. Still not bad considering it only took 2 quarts. My friend who shot the car was surprised it only took 2 quarts, he had me buy 6. I have 4 qts left, might be enough to paint my 40 pu.

 

Krylon red oxide primer. $50.00 a gallon
Comes in spray cans too. Get a nick, shake the can and go! Had the show cars before, pain in the ass on the street.

 

I'm very far from any kind of experienced painter. Just adding that I believe Summit paint is Kirker. I've sprayed the actual Kirker with success and no paint material problems. Not show quality for sure, and no long term durability history.

 

The last 3 I have painted were ALL Tamco.

A family run company where if you have a question, chances are you speak to a family member. When Tammy (daughter) was still there she gave me her cell number for questions. The high build primer sands like butter & the high solids clear has more solids than the big guys. Prices are much better also.

Tammy moved on & I followed her to her new company "Revolt" same Great products & service + many more custom colors, candies & pearls

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

This is a subject that comes back about every two months, and I always follow it with interest as paint is one of my future to do things. Because I had an account there, S-W was my go-to paint along with Napa. Most of the Napa "finish one" stuff did OK. S-W Genesis I did not like, but their ATX line does OK. Being closeby, Tamco is my first consideration. I spoke with Tammy a few times when she was there. I thought she went to Orion, now @ Revolt?

 

When I painted Papaw, I was 14 years old and literally didn’t know shit. My Dad was a Union Carpenter by trade and he didn’t know anything about painting cars either. We went to a very old auto parts store in Belleville Illinois and talked to one of the guys there who basically took the time to go through the entire process with us. We bought Centari and everything needed to go with it and primer from him. I think the total materials bill was around $300. My Mom about shit at that cost. I haven’t painted a car in years, but I follow these threads and am astonished at what it takes today and the costs involved. I’m not talking about paying someone, like my good Buddy Lloyd, I understand labor costs, overhead, tools, etc, I work in this industry, just the other side. I’m just amazed at materials cost. My last paint job was a Harley and I used Rust Oleum because, I’m cheap, I’m a hack, and I didn’t know Lloyd at the time. The paint and body guys, @Lloyd's paint & glass, @anthony myrick, just amaze me with what they can do.