Inexperienced question. I was going to say dumb but someone always says there are no dumb questions. How long a run can unsupported wiring go? As seen in the picture the easiest way is just put a plug on each end of the cables. 3 wires with asphalt cloth housing for support and rubbing protection. The span is about 7". The other way could be to bend the wires along the body and fasten with adel clamps. I think the first way would work and is simpler. There isn't that much room along the body. I also think there is enough support with the asphalt cloth that fatigue of the wires over that span is not a problem. I know I think too much.
If the wiring is not supported (and it looks like it is a heavy run), it may drive you nuts as it slaps against the panel. A couple of clips along the way will also stop the plugs from trying to pull themselves out. If you just use wire without the sleeving and a couple of bullet connectors you won't have so much weight to contend with.
On my 40 Ford I ran the wires along the inside bottom edge of the driver side frame rail to the drivers side taillight and then across the rear frame cross brace rail to the pass. side light as originally done by Ford. I used these clips. The original bullet connectors are not very reliable and can come apart pretty easily so make sure they fit tightly together. Wiring to Frame Clips (10 pcs) Large – Early Ford Store . San Dimas, CA
The connector is a weather pack actually pretty light. The wires pointed to in pic below will be cut when connector is installed I don't think it will slap against the body but a good idea to check. I am most worried about wire breakage from possible fatigue.
I'm not seeing a problem but I'd want the connector on the frame and not swinging in the wind, ideally tied down on either side of the connector. Then it'd just be the 7" of wire in the protective sleeve loose, pretty bulletproof in the convoluted outer sheathing. Something like 1/8" aluminium tig rod inside the sheathing would stop it flexing without adding weight if that bothers you. Chris
If a house electrician can run wires through EMT tubing what would be wrong with running wires through it once it is bent to shape to fit a car chassis?
I did this on my pickup from the cab to rear of the bed. I taped the wires together the entire length before sliding it into the conduit in case of vibration issues and it’s been in there 19 years with no problems.
If the wiring is supported as it is through the firewall penetration, and then supported within 12" again after the connector, I doubt there's enough vibration between to allow wiring to pull out or break at the connector. But if you're really concerned you could fabricate a support bracket to tie the connector to.
Thinking too much, me too. Whenever I see plastic convolute it's like fingernails on a chalkboard. I'd end up wrapping that shit with cloth electrical tape if it can't be removed. Now mind you, I don't wanna seem a hypocrite. There's convolute on my car too. It's over the headlight wires in the front axle crossmember. Wait, never mind it's stainless. Sorry...
If you use bullets, connect up the positive supply lead to a female socket, so if you unplug with the power on, it is not as easy to short to ground.
I was going to wire with one each way so it was harder to mix up taillight and brake light wires. I can do the taillight the way you said and the brake male to the brake switch wire. Brake only having power when brakes applied.
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