Ujoint vs. Rag joint

Well I've done my search. Can't find the answer I'm really looking for. So i'm asking you guys. To bring you up to speed, I am building a '36 ford P.U. Installed the P&J mount to position the vega box for cross steering.I am using parts and pieces of an original '38 column, Column drop is much shorter on a 38 than on the 36, ( I've got a larger than desired tummy, and need the space for the original 38 wheel). anyway the column all lines up dead on, perfectly in line. OK, here is my question, Do I need a steering u-joint for what ever reason, Can I use an original Rag joint, or just machine the 1/2 of the rag joint that has the spline for the gear, and attach it to the steering shaft? I've already decided to spiral pin the steering shaft into whatever i use. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Fenderless

 

Borgensen joint...

 

Rag joints are just vibration dampers and won't accept any deflection over time. I've seen them in pieces because of slight angle variations, but if it's dead straight, they work. Any deflection and they will tear, so it's up to you. Steering and brakes are the two things that you really don't want to compromise on.

 

Thanks guys, I'll use a U joint, would'nt want to take taht kind of chance. thanks again.

Fenderless

 

I used a rag joint on one of my cars and was really unhappy with it. I was the old fashion "Strongarm" steering and the ragjoint just added to the "mushy" feel. So I ended up replacing the rag joint with a disc of steel. I also added the safety pins into my disc.

Be careful on Ujoint selection - I have seen guys use dirt track stuff for street cars - kinda scary. Make sure the Ujoint you select is designed for your intended use.

Your "roll pin" comment scares me to death - I hope I misunderstood your application there. Steering column connections really ought to use splines, double "D's" and so on - take your design concept from one of the Big Three. Can't be too safe here.

 

I agree...pins are a last resort...if you have a smooth shaft you can carefully make it a dd with a grinder...Here at Borgeson we allways recomend dd or splines....definately the strongest ways to go...as allways, please call if you have any questions...I promise I wont try to sell just give best advice I can for your Ap...Just ask for Bill

 

I was going to say, the rag joint is made to work in a straight line, the idea is in a wreck they tear off so you don't get the column impaled through you like a human popsicle. I've torn them off on junkers when I wanted to pull a column in a hurry.


Watch your joint installation, too, we have a stock car up here that something is messed up in it, but it uses joints to center the wheel with like a 45' angle to one part of the shaft. With no motor in it it steers really hard, feels like it's binding somewhere.. granted it has a power steering box and wide tires, but something is definately messed up, the other one we moved the steering was a lot easier - I didn't have to climb in the car and pull with both hands.

 

It was always my understanding that the rag joint was for reducing vibrations to the steering wheel. Under the right kind of impact they will do little to nothing to prevent impalement of the driver -that's why they came out with collapseable steering columns - the infamous "double D"shafts. BTW another way to achieve a certain degree of steering column collase is to use a couple of Ujoints - "hard to push a string" as they say.

 

Why dont you replace your shaft with a shaft that is splined 3/4-36 on 1 end and tapered and keyed on the other for your early wheel? Probably available from a local rod shop!