I read the guidelines and I think this should go here, under "projects" prefix. I don't have any questions, at this time, but I know that questions go better when people can see the project. My project is an amateur project. And, honestly, I am trying to stay close to the price of a car I just sold to fund this. I hesitate to use the word "budget" because it feels like a lot of money, but I'm definitely choosing cheaper options often. I grew a desire to have a 1932 Ford here, looking at the Traditional Images thread. I'd spend my spare time going through the pictures. I bought reproduction frame rails that someone was selling on Craigslist. I saw that Speedway had a used center crossmember kit for cheap. On Craigslist I found a pickup front end body parts... but decided I really wanted a car. Also on Craigslist I found a bunch of front suspension parts and the Speedway/GM disc brakes. And then an 8" axle. Then using the All Craigslist search I found a partially converted five-window to roadster cowl. I bought Brookville doors, rear fenders, trunk, etc and I bought their back half subrails. I bought the United floor. Mockup before I bought the car cowl I've bought two engines for a couple hundred. The first was cracked between valves and cylinders. The second doesn't seem to be cracked, but when they were trying to get it rotating again (presumably after a long sit) they bent a frozen valve and chipped the valve guide. Some penetrating lubricant got the valve to come out; I'm hoping it's ok other than that. Cracked Block Broken Valve Guide I'm using the pickup column and drop with the Speedway collapsible column inside; I used some oil-impregnated brass bushings to go between. I bought a Vega box from Lares. I bought an old S10 T5 and the adapter housing. I have the Howes throwout from another project. I'm going to try and use an AFCO reverse swing brakes/pedal assembly. I'm not loving how it can kind of be seen behind the small roadster dash, but the price is right and I like the feel (I had similar in another car). I bought the 12v alternator and distributor from Speedway. And the cheap carb. And the rear dump headers so I can get past my steering box. Fastshafts driveline. Just to hold it up, I'm using 16" Tesla wheels and snow tires I found for $100. I had to use a .5" spacer to get enough room for the tie rod on the dropped arms. Radiator is the cheap aluminum one. I bought the cheap Speedway gauges set. Rear end is Speedway's four link offering... or maybe it was Summit. I forget. Adjustable QA1 coilovers in the back. I'm going to try some Houdaille shocks I found online in the front. I've bought a lot of little stuff too, like door hinges, door handles, rumble seat hinges and handle, trunk brace, generic Speedway wiring kit, battery box, wishbone bungs and tie rods, etc. I think I'm only missing the front half of the subrails (I've tried twice to buy fragments and both times was sent something that was not 1932 Ford Five Window or Roadster), a package shelf, seat and windshield. I may make the first three, and use some Brooklands windshields I have in the garage until I work some overtime or something (to buy a Roadster windshield setup). Oh, I also need mufflers. I'll probably just use red Thrushes. I've used them for lots of projects and like the sound. I'd love to find some better wheels someday too. And convert to cool finned front drum brakes. Of course I want hot rod motor parts too. But, I do think David Freiburger is right when he says, "Don't get it right, just get it running". It is a saying that's helped me get several other cars on the road. Well, that's the start of my project. I'm only tacking everything in place, then will tear down and weld whole/cleanup, and paint.
Hey neighbor, how's life in Oregon Wine Country? Very cool car! For the most part it appears you have a fairly "traditional" theme going for your car. The only thing that stands out (to me) as a bit modern is the "V'd" spreader bar. You will notice my roadster has one too so it's not that I don't like them, I even had someone say the same thing to me about mine, does make me think that I may swap it out for a straight version someday...........if I ever get it finished that is!
@DDDenny You've got a nice looking car! I like the v; I saw in it on the McGee and I thought, "That's the one I want." But I will paint the v, I don't love my fake chrome. And yeah, I can always switch it out. I wish my car was traditional, but I've already made too many choices down another path (coilover rear end, disc brake fronts, new gauges, reverse swing pedals, etc.). The best I can shoot for is a traditional homage ha, and that is what I'm hoping to do. I may backdate some of the stuff down the road (front brakes, gauges, wheels, etc). Thanks for the feedback!
I thought about painting my spreader bar black but just couldn't, that was a pretty expensive piece of stainless steel. By the way, did you notice the custom trunk lid on the McGee car? Came real close to asking Dee Wescott if he would build one like it for my roadster.
@DDDenny yeah, I don't think mine is. Hand feel is that it's chinesium. But my gas tank is stainless, and I've been keeping the plastic shipping cover on it for the same reason; in case I don't want to paint it
Thought I'd throw some updates on. All I've really done is make parts and fit things in the last couple months. I'm working full-time, pickup some overtime, and have three sports-oriented kids so I don't get to work on the car daily (a choice, I know). Trying to do the things under the body before I build the body out. I got the ebrake working. I did a slightly strange thing, ran the cable in a figure eight, but here's my reasoning: the figure eight allowed the cables to come out where the frame arch is higher, and I didn't have to cut the Mustang ebrake cable and reduce it's integrity. I used the old Fold handle and built a mount off the Speedway cross member. Tried to put it near where it would have been on a real 32. Then I built a floorboard, trying to use the Ford bolt holes. Difficult to see, but I've also been parting together the subrails. Then I mounted my split wishbones. An odd way to mount them, but here's my thought: Mounting them a little inboard hints at an original wishbone, and it allowed them to exit where the frame arch was higher, but also allows my wheels to turn more before hitting. This then allowed me to setup the front suspension. I have lever-arm shocks on my MGA, and I like them, so I thought I'd do the same here. I want the car to seem old when I'm done, and this will help, I believe. Note, if you look close at all these pictures, you'll notice the welds aren't finished. I'm tacking and welding as I can with it together, but will be tearing the car to pieces after it's mocked up to finish welding, etc. This week I've tacked the exhaust in place. I had doubts I would be able to get it over the axle, but it ended up working out so I'm pretty happy. I like the look of the dual pipes running out the back under the frame rails and I think I'll have that. Next, I'm going to run my brake and fuel lines from the back, and then I think I'll start on the floor/body. I was reading that I might consider running a low pressure fuel pump (like the little K&N) unit, to get the fuel up to the front well. Anyone have opinions on that? I have put that pump on both my Lotus 7 and MGA and it works fine/great.
Was checking some stuff out on the HAMB today so I thought I'd do a quick update. Plumbed the car. Not sure I love the exposed lines under the dash, maybe some gauges/mount will hide them. I did put a K&N electric pump at the back. Maybe I'll try and put an oil pressure switch into the power supply; thinking of maybe trying to use one of the brake line pressure switches for a cheap option. Started building the body. Door hinges were a challenge; then I ordered some more hinge bolts and washers from a different company and figured out they were much lower profile/better made. Closed the gaps up good enough for me... well, after messing with hinges, a pillars, a pillar braces, etc.. I'm trying to use a closed car cowl that someone previously started converting (bronze colored welds, so a while ago); yes, I know I need to add a strengthening strip along the inside. So much left to do on the body. It's got about six tack welds holding it together behind the doors. Wish I hadn't been cheap and bought full subrails... but then, I'm not. They are quite expensive. So today I'm heading to Newberg Steel to get some steel to fab up the rest of my subrails. That'll probably cost me a tank of argon and a lot of wire... but that's not too bad. In terms of building the body Coldstream Rods and their Youtube have been invaluable. I absolutely could not have understood how certain things interact without them, unless I had a real roadster I could go look at (which I'm not aware that I do). In addition, Derek has been very considerate in answering random questions I've sent him. Such a nice guy!
There are numerous ways to build these damn cars, but as you are on the HAMB and seemingly open to ideas/opinions to improve your build I would offer some comments based on what I’m seeing in your pics. And I don’t want to shit in your cornflakes, but there are a few things I’d like to see you reconsider in your build. Specifically the routing of your lines, tubes, and pipes. - fuel line routing: keep it up high and consider a big ass filter inline and as close to the tank as possible. I really like the AC Delco filter cans as they last and have replacement filter cartridges that are cheap. - brake lines routing: consider a single line from master to rear and then split it once it’s on the rear axle. There are factory mopar parts available for this and you can utilize your vent as the anchor point. Also, I’d put the pressure switch closer to the master as well. - exhaust routing: running it near the rails just adds heat to brake and fuel lines, while running it closer to the driveshaft also makes it easier to get over the rear axle. Your painted/powdered rails will also thank you. Also consider adding another crossmember between the rails (right at the top) so you have an additional place for exhaust hangers so you’re not using the floor. - e-brake cables routed under the driveshaft - wtf. What you did was very creative, but…consider a way to get them above…please. I’d also think about getting the coilovers a little more upright. The flatter the angle, the heavier the springs you’ll need. No biggy, but maybe worth considering. 15-25 degree angle is target and I’m a fan of 20 degrees to get both handling and lighter spring optimal. I’ll shut up now… Cheers
Thanks for taking interest. There is a fuel filter just at the tank, on the input to the K&N. There will be another between the regulator and the carb. I ran this setup on my Locost 7 and it worked great running four motorcycle carbs. It'll be fine with one or (eventually) two car carbs Brake lines - it is a single line to the rear where it split at the axle. Single line to the fronts too. And the clutch. Same system I used in the Locost, for both the brakes and clutch (same transmission too). Many autocrosses with the Locost, worked great. Exhaust routing.... yes, routing might be better for heat, but I'm not too worried about it. All the mounts are from the frame, there's nothing from the body. Rear coilovers. Again, same setup I used on the Locost (same coilovers, at about the same angle). Worked fine. Thanks though. Here's the Locost having fun with most of all the components we talked about above - LINK
Oh, and the ebrake cable. Routing it under and looping allowed it to come out of the axle at a good angle, bring it out under the curve in the frame (instead of farther forward where it hits when the suspension compresses) and allows the suspension to work without interfering. Also, the cable is higher than the front of the tranny, so I'll have other issues before it catches anything. In addition, looping it allowed me to not cut the mustang ebrake cable, allowing integrity and easy replacement. Also, this setup allows me to use the factory 1932 ebrake handle. It is different, but it works great.
I'd probably not cross the E brake cables, and instead keep them on the same side they start out at. Just a small curved loop will direct them at the rear brakes without crossing under the driveline. Factories have done it this way for many decades.
@1971BB427 I hear you... I'm struggling to see why it would matter. I'd have to my blow my axle check straps out before my driveline could get to the cables I guess the cables could maybe bounce up and slap the driveline. It's not a big deal to adjust the cable, I'd probably just need to move the cable mid-mounts directions and maybe add one to do your idea of curving it out. And to the corn flakes guys point, I probably need to adjust a couple parts of my exhaust piping to give my frame a little more room. There's a couple of spots it's too close and on the Lotus it started deforming my aluminum when I did that, so it does get hot. Good feedback. Thanks all
I was mainly concerned with the cables slapping the driveshaft over bumps or rough roads. Or if the driveline ever broke and dropped down on the cables.
@1971BB427 I had the back of the car off to weld together my subrail fragments so I adjusted the ebrake cable using your idea of looping them a little. They don't go under the driveline now, and I made little arms to hold them roughly where they need to be vertically while allowing enough play for the axle action. The attached picture makes everything look a lot closer than it really is. @fresh hops thank you!
I better get down there to see it before you get it done. It looks great, I would probably add some structure in the center of the chassis. Take care !
@Marty Strode I'd welcome you checking it out/your input anytime! That last picture is a weird angle, I'm standing on the Speedway Motors center structure (their tubular crossmember system). No worries on me finishing soon, all I'm doing is tacking together a project; plan is to tear it completely back down once things mostly fit together and start over finishing things as I go the second time. I feel like I'm probably years out. But at least it's starting to look like a car, that's encouraging!
It's funny, the car looks pretty much the same but I've put some hard work (for me) into it in the last couple months. Disclaimer, I'm an office guy that has no professional automotive experience. I came across "The Template Roadster" and realized that I'm not making that great of a car... but I think I'll be happy with what I'm building. The Template Roadster is pretty much my ideal, a very nice car that I'll fall short of but it's what I'd build if I had more skill ha.I'm posting here in case I need help (so people will know where I'm at) or for the occasional call-out. Someone did call me out on the ebrake and after being defensive I fixed it to not cross under the driveline. On that note, a friend called me out that my motor was going to rub my firewall. On the dreaded day I went out to cut the motor mounts off and move them forward, I took the nut off and found the water pumps were slotted and I was moved all the way back. That was SUCH a relief. I loosened the tranny mounts and pulled it forward on the jack (well, of course the tranny was slotted the other direction so me and the dremel spent 20 minutes under the car extending slots, but it wasn't too bad). I got the rumble working. I bought some crap pressing of the below-deck panel. Pretty proud of myself, but with pie cuts and etc I managed to completely reshape it to actually work; it's not perfect but good enough for me. Maybe it was supposed to be for a three window. It was the super bargain ebay used buy. The body lines were flexing out mid trunk, so I welded in another brace, pulled them together with a tie strap and then welded the braces in. Now the lines down the trunk gutters look better. Someone on here put a ford release hinge on theirs and I thought it looked like a good idea. So I did the same with a pull handle to come out next to the seat. A friend helped me test fit the seat. Nice to sit in the car for the first time, even if I look like a total dork. To be fair, I didn't realize he was taking a photo until the last second ha. Regarding the rear, I was happy that the body seemed to mostly fall in place where it was supposed to along the subframe. Also, I widened the dog house over my axle to accommodate it better, the first time it was too narrow. I "fixed" the (five window?) A pillars to have the inside flap. I tried two car grilles. The first one was a cheap one someone sold me warning me it was chinese crud for a 100. I thought I was fine with it but it turned out to not even fit over my radiator. So I bought another used one from Craigslist that is supposedly (per the seller) the Vintique one with a stainless grille. I have doubts. And he didn't tell me that he'd cut the sides off for a channeled car, but I dealt with it, for better or worse. It still didn't fit perfect, and I'm pulling it on with the mounting bolts after grinding back the aluminum radiator welds as far as I felt safe, but... it's all right. Maybe someday I'll happen upon an affordable real 32 grille (seems unlikely, seeing the online prices). 1st try 2nd try I then put in some lacing (just zip tied it in for now) and fit my hood holder downers. I liked the look of the curved mounts coming off the frame that someone sells on here. I thought, "hold my beer, I can do that". Well, I kinda wish I'd bought that guy's pre-made ones ha. Mine look fine-sh after (surprising) hours of work, but the ones on sale here look much better. Next up, I need to get the rocker's tacked in, the B pillar brace and the brace from the seat riser to body. I also want to somehow get my original style round Ford clutch/brake pedals to fit into my arms. Sooner or later, I'll have to deal with that cowl top. Whoo, I'm scared of it ha. Just got to keep remembering I'm fine with not perfect cars; my MGA is far from perfect, body wise, and I still really enjoy it.
Cool. I don't recall seeing your thread before today. Always love a good build thread. It is hard to have people critic your art and building cars is definitely art (unless they are copies I guess, that would make them forgeries, still takes talent). I like the change to the e-brake cables, I think you ill too when you R&R the propshaft. You look awful comfy in the cabin, are you planning a top?
Thanks @Bandit Billy ; yeah, I found a 2" chopped convertible top for $400 with the frame. Seemed like a good deal. I still haven't unfurled it too see what sort of damage it has ha. And i have the windshield and stanchions from Speedway, so (short of glass) I think I'm good to go. I have some sort of vision of adding defrost vents like the MGAs and a wiper since i live in the PNW. We shall see. Looking at the curve of the dash, it'll take a little doing to get a vent to come out in that area.
Picture of your MG looks like it was at the All British meet at PIR. I'm enjoying following your build, and hope to see it someday when it's completed!
Looking good, don't be too hard on yourself when things don't turn out "perfect". Henry had hiccups along the way as do all of us.
Looking great smart idea on wheels and tire seen a lot of people buy a new set of Coker tires that are aged out before they ever see the road. Your cowl looks like a good excuse for a Devaul style windshield witch I really like. Keep at it impressive progress
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