This is the perch pin supplied by Chassis Engineering with their dropped axle. Shouldn't the shoulder of the bolt extend all the way thru the axle? Thanks, Rich
That is the wrong one it seems-It needs to be long enough for it to go all the way thru and have a full nut + (correct one) with that sway bar peanut installed. Measure it's length and show a pic. How much is out the bottom. I got some from Pete and Jakes. May have some around to compare-show a measurement then I will look. Done a few 40's-also show the measurement of the shouldered part.
I sent the pic to Chassis Engineering and then talked with them on the phone. They said that as long as it was long enough the get the shock mount on with the entire castle nut on the threads, that I was good to go. They also said they only carry one perch bolt that is used on everything?
"One size will not fit all applications. The correct bolt should extend the shoulder all the way thru the axle. The one you have may work, but some ware down the line, you will have a problem. Another supplier, check Bob Drake.
Just bringing this one back up since I am running into this on my current '40 front end. Did you run it with the bolt turned upside down? Because I am tempted to do that, as long as the taper/recess fits the castle nut on top, which it looks to be doing in mock-up.
I have had this issue also, when i pulled my front end apart on my T RPU i found my perches to be too short in the shoulder. The reason is simple as they are perches for a spring over setup. You will notice from 35 on the with the canter levered spring in front they had to make the top of the wish bone stronger (thicker on top). I fixed mine by turning down a 5/8 UNF nut to the axle bore size and wind it on the tight with locking agent. The axle needs a full contact with the pin as when braking and steering forces it will soon flog the lower part of the shoulder. Remember, all the axles attempt to rotate when braking is kept in check solely by the perch bolts. JW