Well . . . after all the ideas and debates . . . seems you're basically doing what you planned in the beginning. Lots of different build options were discussed by all of us (and proposed by you and others). Did any of the input actually influence your plans? It seems that you're pretty much back where you started. Maybe that is good . . . Just do you . . .
Yes all good info learning a lot about what I can do and what's worth it or not. I'm considering the roller cam conversion. Lot more expensive but seems like money well spent the machine shop said its not a bad idea either
I'm working on developing the mentality of converting any engine I rebuild or cam swap to roller. Just gotta find a company that makes good parts that isn't $5k all in for a roller conversion lol
Posted the other day https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...p-in-my-non-roller-350.1324798/#post-15388501
RE: Hydraulic Roller Cam Setup Talk to Chris Straub at Straub Technologies - he made a hydraulic roller for my 383. Engine makes 520 HP - exactly what he said it would (knew all the rest of my parts): Straub Technologies
The other thing guys are not mentioning is more torque / bigger engine will allow the same acceleration with a taller gear and thus also means a higher more comfortable cruzing top speed. A 350 or even a 383 is going to pull a 2.73 or 308 gear and whole lot better of the line than a 283 and let you run 70 with no OD. I rode in a C1 Corvette recently that had 413" SBC ( 400 .060 OVER) with a turbo 350 and 256 gears . The car pulled pretty damn hard still even with those gears. At 60 mph it was spinning like 1900 RPM. AT 75 IT was in the sweet spot . It's not a super high performance build hyd flat tappet lifters but does have aluminum heads . Makes 400 hp on regular gas so I'm told . It will smoke my 57 vette with a high compression 307 ( 327 crank in a 283) with a big cam and 461 heads with 1.94 valves well ported and 350 gears i can't really run at 75 well . That car with the 413 with a say 3.73 gears and OD would be really fast/ quick and still drivable all day on regular fuel. I'm very tempted to yank my 307 out and use it in the much lighter 27 roadster 4.11 geared hot rod build and build a simple 383 on Later block with factory hyd roller lifters . Here premium is about $1.00 more a gallon and I drive the Vette a lot Likely pay for the new engine in fuel cost savings alone. Other than a different dampner and a road draft tube I dont use anyway 99% won't know or care . It's not as easy as one thinks to get 283 HP out of a 283 on today's pump gas . It's going to take some serious cam and heads . The 57 fuel injected Vette made 283 HP and was a pretty hot little engine . It certainly can be matched with today's better cams and intake and heads but it's not a mild build and won't have a lot down low for a heavy car. I have a set of 12-1 .060 over 283 pistons and a 30-30 cam new in a box . I want to put the Hilborn injection in my avatar picture on it eventually with a set of worked 461's i bet it don't make 330 HP done on race gas.
SB Chevy 283 engines use a small Hub, it's not a full size 6 1/4" or 8" Harmonic Balancer like the 302's 327's 350's & 400 use, but you can buy a new full size Harmonic Balancer for your 283 and have it balanced with the Crank, Rod's Pistons and your 4sp Standard Trans part's.
Hey guys...so the rear end is a 3.36..seem a little to high? I'm guessing it's original. I wish I new what it was turning last time I had it on the highway but tach wasn't working. Machine shop wants to know for cam choices but I'm thinking I may wind up changing them anyway?
One of 283’s factory gears would be 3:36’s. Most likely a PowerGlide trans from factory. What do you mean by “to high”? Other factory gears are 3:08 3:55 3:73 4:10 and 4:56. There are shorter gears available but not ever offered by Chevrolet.
what is the main thing this car will get used for? My 61 Has 3.36's and they are great for freeway driving. If you are going to drag race your car you may want to change them to a deeper gear
Mostly just cruising but would like it decent off the line. It's 4 spd muncie..I think an m21..Def not an m22. It seemed to wind out at 60 to 65 and that's the fastest I ever took it but unfortunately the tach wasn't working so can't say for sure. Really like to able to cruise at around 70 comfortably
your car will be doing about 3000 rpm's at 70. My Impala has a 4 speed also. I have driven my car all over the country with 3.36's at 70 mph plus with no problems. The thing is that people are used to their late model cars that cruise at 1800 rpm's and they think their old cars need to be the same. Believe me that the car does not care. The tallest gear you could put in your car is a 3.08 and it would really be a slug off the line with those gears
Keep in mind a vehicle with a Muncie 4 speed manual will roll out much quicker than a PowerGlide will.
Given that you have a 4-speed, you have a bit to "play with" as compared to a PowerGlide. I'd keep those gears if you want to go on the highway for any length of time. If it was my car and I wanted the best of both worlds (and could spend the $$$), I'd put 3.73 gears in it and a 5-speed transmission with overdrive.
Rear tire diameter and RPM? I'm loving the idea of my a833 but most of the Street/Strut action is an hour away from home... -rick
26.5 inch tall rear tire. 2950 rpm's at 70. I once drove my 61 from Oklahoma to Minnesota at over 100 mph most of the way with no problems, yes I had a good reason, please do not ask
So this will probably very unpopular but, hell I'm old and dont care. This is a Blueprint 430hp 383. My point is, with some creativity anything can be made to look old/nostalgic. With a car as heavy as a 64 Impala a decently built flatop 350 with a decent cam and decent heads will give you what you are looking for. Hell my dad replaced the 327 in his 64 Impala SS with a 350 in 1973! Retire that little 283, that has served so well to under the bench till you can build a fun little 30s coupe or roadster around it. My .02 Ps edit: that Vette ran and stopped like nobody's business when we were done with it and and at first glance it looked completely stock.
Back in the day, guys racing with 283 s in the larger bodies (62-65) took the bore out +.060 to 292 and used those half diamond castings. Those were not powerpac. They were 250hp 327 heads. They had smaller intake valves than the (double hump) 300hp 327 engines (1.94 intakes) . If you cc your combustion chambers I think you'll find they are probably around 61 cc. 1957,58 powerpac heads were around 57 or 58 cc. Also the 250hp heads had larger intake ports I believe. If you could find a set of 283+.060 F.I pistons with those 250hp heads or Zero deck the block and use flat top pistons. Either way you should be able to use 1.94 intake valves.
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