Technical ***December 2024 Banger Meet Thread - Santa, I was bad, but good at it***

Gasket and some silicone should do.

 

This is the holdingest stuff I've found. I have to drive a wedge in behind my differential cover and pry like hell to get it off. I wouldn't be at all afraid to use it on a tappet cover without a gasket.

 

Thanks guys, that is what we had hoped. The oil pump is vw & he was a little concerned about the extra pressure in there. I expect to hear it run over the Christmas break

 

It should be no problem, I have run 100 psi for longer runs at Bonneville with no gasket

J

 

I like to add some screws in the rail between the two chambers.

 

Would it be possible to post a few more pictures of the oil pump conversion and the oil filters adapter - along with any available information thanks, Steve Hackel

 

Thanks guy!!

Smart idea! That made me think of Hot Rod's coverage on the H&H Riley engine. He's got quite a few

 

I'll see what I can dig up. The engine is in the chassis as of yesterday

 

merry chrismas

 

Here you go, the order may be a little mucked up.
The oil pump is vw beetle & oil filter housing has a pressure valve & is Aussie gm v8

 

Thats a great Work.
Greetings Harald

 

Wow, my wrist hurts just looking at those bends. Solid work!!

 

He's hoping for oil pressure & a run today

 

Well I heard & saw it run, sounds nice. No ph/camera so no pics, won't be long till it's bombing around!

 

Interested in the sump baffling. I’m planning to redo mine as I lose pressure on right hand bends.

 

Will try to find photos, there'll be some on an Aussie A fb group.
He was getting 45psi of oil at idle

 

@Outback, that’s nice work, and good use of, off the shelve parts, modified to work with our old engines. I really like how he has given the machined parts a cast look. Can you share how that was done? Is the oil pump fitted into a custom main bearing cap ?

 

While it'll give you a different finish than what Outback posted, using a needle scaler with rounded off needles gives a really finish.

 

The engine of this vintage snowmobile is located at the very back of the machine. The carb intake was located straight back in the snow dust and a filter would plug right away. Snow coming in hitting the piston skirts would scrub off the oil and cause early wear.
My solution was to cut the carb flange off the manifold and TIG in a cast elbow that I sawed off a Ford 300 six injection manifold to turn the carb to a place where I could get a fresh air tube on it and gather snow free intake air from farther forward.
Vintage racing rules require a stock engine, so I had to make my alteration look factory. I ground the welds smooth, then beat it up with a needle scaler and followed that with a small amount of blasting sand in my cabinet. Sand, not glass beads. If anyone asks, my planned response would be a shrug of my shoulders and, " I dunno, maybe it was a factory prototype. It sure as hell needed something."

So, what do you think, does it look like a factory part?

 

Not exactly a 4 banger, but it does fire 4 times in 2 revolutions, haha.

 

I believe he uses a die grinder running very slowly to achieve the finish

Yes he made custom main caps to suit the oil pump,
He also welded the counter weights on & built up the rear seal area to run a modern lip seal.

He's a little concerned about the extra load on the pump drive, with 55psi. Has anyone had issues with pump drive failure with higher pressure's

 

I'm not a big fan of running a big hi pressure pump off of the stock distributor drive gear, but guys do it all the time.
All high oil pressure gives you is bragging rights- run the least oil pressure you need to make the bearings happy. Twice the pressure is twice the load on the drive gear. All big hi volume oil pumps do is beat the crap out of the oil- most of it gets bypassed back into the oil pan without ever lubricating anything. Just food for thought. Happy New Year everyone!!

 

Thanks Dan,
I think he'll adjust the pressure reg to get the pressure down a bit, I guess the question is what psi do the bearings need to be happy. I'm sure he'll find a happy place, the cam is only slightly better than a B grind so not a big reving machine.

 

IHMO a proper bearing installation only needs 30 psi at speed and 10-15 at idle
There is a rule of thumb 10 psi per 1000 rpm speed

I have had GM v8 motors with 5 psi idle and 30 at 5k that just last forever

as you know the stk mod a was not pressurized but had a groove to supply oil across the length of the bearing and they ran a long time

J

 

Link to the January 2025 banger meet