Technical blower pulley tool

I have decided to reinstall my blower engine back into my Tudor. Before I do, I want to do some cursory checking including turning the engine over by hand. I am running a 2" wide notched belt. The crank bolt is buried under the lower blower pulley. I have tried oil filter grippers on the pulley but to no avail. Does anyone know of a tool specifically made to grab the notched pulley without damaging the teeth.
Warren

 

the blower drive snout should have a 1/2" square hole in it, it appears in the center of the upper pulley. Use a breaker bar to turn it.

 

On mine , About 1-3/4 space between Elec fan & face of pulley , This Is one I made to fit my need to Rotate Blower / Engine to use with Open or close wrench when unable to use Breaker Bar nor Ratchet.
First 2 pic's , &" If" Alternator belt adjusted correctly you can also rotate the engine with the alternator
Pulley bolt.
Other tools are for Moroso Aluminum Oil Pan with internal bolts ,
Up inside Pan
Also 1/4 5/8 Spark plug socket to use on Tight Header plugs to use
1/4 wrench , Just thoughts

 

Both answers above are spot on.
If perchance you can't swing it.
I would bet that a loop of clothesline beneath your filter strap, would give the purchase needed.
Apologies to real mechanics.

 

^^^^^YEP^^^^

 

Here are a couple of pictures of the upper and lower drives. There is no hole or bolthead to get ahold of. This setup was built by Bob Beezer, the the Indian starter from the early Nationals. I really need a tool that will latch into the ribs of the drive gears.
Warren

 

No big deal there is a tool for that set up you need
Its basically a big washer with a square drive in the center that Bolts to the pulley or crank ,
Easy to make, Hole saw , welder & drill old socket, or file required.

 

If it was mine, I would machine a steel or aluminum disk that would bolt on using the upper pulley mounting bolts (length adjusted as needed) that incorporates a means to attach a wrench to turn over the engine. Latching onto pulley OD isn't a good long term solution .

 

Or weld a 1/2 drive socket or 3/8s to snout , about 1/2 deep/ long ,
We are skinning cats in many different ways

 

There been times thing's out side box ,
Not have a tool , used like oil filter wrench , my leather belt & like round doll like a broom handle
Watching MacGyver paid off,
a**** the many nicknames I have been called besides A$$ , MacGyver Ed

 

I wanted a positive drive like on my other engines. I did not want to weld to the aluminum pulley. I have ordered the rotation plate. Perfect answer. Thank you all.
Warren

 

A Few weeks ago on a OT , lost head light ,like usual 2 am No one up , vampire hours , I had a cord from a 110v house cord , I cut up , cut plug off head light
Wired to head light straight to battery to get me home

 

No problem with that, things like this fun to me , just thinking how to Solve or just get me to my shop

 

you don't need all 6 bolts, you could just weld any decent sized nut to the middle of a long enough 1" x 1/4" steel bar with a 3/8" hole at each end, and you'd be done. But the fancy machined part will look so much better!

 

I could have done that, but I don't like cobbled parts an a fully balanced drive train, even on a small diameter. Once the engine is installed, no one will be able to see the plate anyway.
Warren

 

@wuga , have you considered that the bolt circle on that plate from Alky Digger may have a different bolt circle than your pulley? I see a 6-53 that has custom ball bearing end plates and also a blower drive that was fabricated for a 53 series blower. I’d advise finding out if that rotation plate actually fits your pulley.

 

Not busting on your build ,
You mention balancing, I can tell you your drive snout is not Perfect , Belt going to absorb vibration from Blower to crank ,
Do not know how potent your engine
Nor Rpm's turning ,
I know many use ,, For me I do not like using top pulley that fair away & off center of the bearing on that type of snout , with out more support,
& the load on front main bearing with out crank suport , & load on arm idler,
I use 8 & 14 mm belts .I have striped to many 1/2 belts.
Again Not busting on your parts , I have Brocken long snouts , It can & has became costly over the years,
Like pics I have post with just grade 8 normal bolts / nuts .I have some times
Just use what I grab my hands on with out going threw a few 5 gallon buckets
Of ARP bolts , nuts , studs ,
NAS bolts nuts studs , same with boxes & boxes fittings .
When it comes to paint , I will not more likely paint Vehicle again,
I had painted one with all H O K candy's & pearls ,really 2 , 2nd tow Dual several Ks just in paint, One burnout , chips from slinging
Grit , small pebbles, off slicks ,
I know we all have our own ways of doing things And different opinions!!

 

That’s what I do… length of flat bar, two bolt holes and a square one for a breaker bar. If it is temporary, 2 bolts will do. If it lives there forever, use all 6 and make it neat.

cheers,
Harv

 

Once the engine is installed, remove the plate. Not something you use very often unless you’re turning over a fueller to prove clear of nitro, quick to take on and off, no need for permanent.

cheers,
Harv