I have what I believe is a 1962 built Chev 283 that has a hub instead of the later type harmonic balancer, I have a few different lower pulleys none of which seem to want to fit because of the small lip on the rear of the pulley, can anyone advise as to the correct pulley for this engine?
I.D. of the hub looks a little gunked up. Have you tried cleaning it up with a Scotch Brite pad to remove any paint/crust/junk? Combined with too thick paint the O.D. of the pulley won't fit inside the I.D. of the hub. Do you have calipers to measure the I.D. on hub and O.D. of pulley flange? Is the pulley itself O.E. or is it a re-pop? Some non-factory pulleys are anywhere from hideous to outright useless garbage when it comes to fit and finish. Shadowing is messing with me, that is the inside bore of the hub and not the end of the crankshaft with the paint flecks in the center correct? Triple witness marks on the hub also seem to indicate washers or flanged bolt heads were in contact with the hub rather than a flush mounted pulley, possibly a spacer was used prior? Is this a new to you engine? Wacky thought, P.O. needed a hub and had a single pulley hub/damper modified to be just a hub. Center bore where the register bore was is not fully machined on the I.D. from the factory and this was never checked or machined after modification to fit a factory lipped pulley.
Usually someone uses a hammer to beat on the hub, without using the required wood 2x4 to protect the hub, and the hole gets beaten in a little bit, and you have to use a half round file to open it back up. There is no other magical pulley for that application
Factory GM or aftermarket? If aftermarket replacement more likely not correct size, by few Thousands . The balancer hub looks to have a burr, Best to use use a roll lock flap wheel Or Taper de burrer , cone shape , Just enough to round , like .005-.010 deep. Or round file to just to clean it up , burr
You could go back to your teen years. Just slap it on there and tighten the bolts real good. Then run it until it cracks.
Is this common or an early 283 spacer for when Chevy ditched the oil slinger? Or is this used when the Corvette mount and spacer is not used in a non Corvette application? Was helping a neighbor with his '64 Impala, dont recall any spacers used on the crank nor WP pulley on his 283. Traditional backyard hot rodding at its finest.
There been times use what ever worked to my needs , redrill holes , drill out spot welds on multiple stacked pulley, Cut / grind off the centering pilot, Then maybe a run out gauge to Center to crank rotation
The spacer is for the Corvette, to make up for the thickness of the motor mount bracket between the block and water pump.
The lip is there to locate the pulley, clean up the bore and it will slip right in. Using the bolts only will not locate the pulley on center.
The lip is there to keep the pulley centered, if you remove it it will not run true. It is a spigot, the same as the water pump shaft with the top pulley. I have found many over the years that don't fit because of the hammer on the balancer...clean it up and do it right. JW edit; i type slow
If you plan on running any pulley other than the single groove, do yourself a favor and run a drill bit in the crank and tap it 7/16-20
I had the same issue with my reproduction pulley was about .010” too big. I just spun it down in the lathe and slightly chamfered the balancer so it sat in flush.
Be careful, this is not easy to do properly with the crank still in the engine. Dealing with a broken tap in the crank snout is a nightmare! I built a drill and tap fixture years ago to do this.
Well I've never had that happen lol, but if it did, you're just back to knocking it on with a block of wood squirrel posted the instructions from the GM service manual somewhere here, and it actually showed the bfh and block of wood lol
Gotta make some kind of effort to whip up an alignment sleeve, wouldn't hurt to make two, one for a 1/4" pilot and one for the tap drill (25/64).
Chevy didn't bother on 283's I purchase a 65 impala 283 with an extension pulley for power steering. It never had a crankshaft front bolt. I think the problem would be if you used a heavier 350 balancer. One caveat with these old dinosaurs is when fitting a short waterpump. The depth of the front flange for the pulley is different for Alternators to Generators. So if you use the 350 Corvette short waterpump [most are] on an early generator engine you must press the flange on a bit further
The lower H.P. early small journal 327 cranks were not drilled for a bolt either, I don't believe that they were drilled unless they used the larger balancer, 300 h.p. and up. I don't believe that I have ever seen a factory drilled 283 crank snout.
Had a nice low mileage 57 Chevy back in 1964. 283 power pack powerglide. Factory air an power steering. Got to hearing a knock at idle. Went to my brother in law. He says o sweat. Get three 3/8s 24 bolt a lock washers. Put them in the pulley bolt holes. Fixed it right up. That Loewe pulley was riveted to the crank pulley. I think that was the bolt size. Not positive.
Interesting. I’ll look into that on my 57 even though I just keep driving it. Old habit of driving used stuff for nearly 40 years before buying a brand new vehicle.
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