Is there a specific material available that can be bonded to a fibergl*** part to make it thicker (1/2" ) or act as a spacer? Preferably something that could be finished and blended into the original part. Here is my situation. I am working on my 36 truck project trying to get the body fitted and the issues worked out. The front fenders and running boards are fibergl***. The running boards have the raised "ribs" like original steel ones. The fender on the drivers side attaches tight against the cab in the front with the running board behind that. The first inner "rib" sits about 1/2" away from the lower cab and follows the contour of the cab just like the original. But on the p***enger side the rib is tight against the cab in the front where the fender and running board meet and gets wider as it goes towards the rear. Its not even like on the drivers side. If I put a spacer between the fender and cab and move it out then it helps to get the rib in line where it needs to be. The problem is that since I am moving the fender out it also changes where the hood side and inner fender meet. If you keep the hood side in its original position against the cab side and grille side, there is now a gap along the top of the fender and bottom of hood side where they meet. One thought would be to try and widen the fender by cutting it somewhere and splitting it open and repairing it. But that seems like it could create other problems. Was wondering if there is something I could bond to the inner edge of the fender to act like a spacer and be able to blend it in for finish and paint. I was thinking of just using mat and resin but it would probably take a lot of layers to build it up enough.
Have you made a template to see which is off , cab or or running bds . ? Slicing & filling the board sounds easiest , fibergl*** supplies have gotten very pricey of late .
Nearly any material can be bonded to fibergl*** if the applicable adhesive is used. An adhesive called "methacrylates" are common in any number of dissimilar fibergl***/metal (and others) bonding combinations. You could close your eyes and pick any number of these links to find an adhesive that matches your bonding scheme. https://www.google.com/search?q=ple...U0LjMuMaAH0SI&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-img#ip=1
I would make stacked spacers out of 1/8" aluminum sheet, cut 1/8" shy of the desired profile, and 1/8" short of the thickness. Then rivet them on, layer by layer, with just enough rivets to keep them from falling off. Sand the exposed surface with 36-grit. Then gl*** over them, cutting the existing gel coat back and overlapping the original gl*** with the new gl***. Then gel coat.
We used to get fibergl*** sheet stock at work, in almost any thickness, not like you need that much. But a small block of that would work. Check McMaster Carr or even eBay. I like the idea of chopping up a shower base. Edit: Looked at McMaster Carr... the stuff is not cheap. They do have strips of hat section material that looks interesting. Do you have a plastics supplier locally? Often they sell shorts and s**** pieces.
I'm thinking the simplest way would be wooden spacer gl***ed to the fender, then gl***ed to shape. I would also think about gl***ing in steel/aluminum tubes at the bolt holes so tightening the bolts wouldn't crush on the widened fender flange.
Couldn't you cut the flange off the fender, bolt the fender and flange in place, feather back the edges, glue a piece of cardboard on the bottom, gl*** in the top with mat and cloth, once cured, remove the fender, grind back the cardboard, feather back into the new top gl***, gl*** the bottom with more mat and cloth, and grind, sand, and finish the top and bottom of the fender. More work; but seems like a better way than a thick spacer. Had to do that to some Poliform fenders that didn't match up right under the bottom point of the grille on a '33 I had.
Yes I definitely thought of doing that. However my concern was more about getting it body worked back even since it’s curvy in all directions. I feel like I would end up with a noticeable area of funk with my skills. I thought if I added it along the inner edge I could blend it in better. Some of it is actually under the cab and the area along the bottom edge that meets the hood side is flatter.
I read 36 Truck in your opening statement. Your issues are not unusual for fibergl*** parts however that much does seem extreme. My question is are you sure your working on the correct part? Maybe it's a combination of Cab and fender. Trucks generally get beat to beans and then there's the Rust issues with stuff of that age. Did you do Cab repair that may have added to a fender issue? How do the Doors fit and work on the Cab. I guess what I'm saying is a problem that big isn't generally all in one replacement part. Make sure you do your Homework right before you build in another problem.
I made a cardboard template of the drivers side lower cab area to compare against the p***enger side and it’s pretty close. I am not sure where the parts came from as they where included with the truck. I’m also fine making them fit as needed, it’s not a 100% accurate restoration.
Look for a supplier of Pulltruded GRP (Gl*** Reinforced Polyester) Available in profiles like Angle, Channel, Flat, I Beam etc. Similar to steel profiles. Stack them for greater thickness. It is sold for structural construction on high corrosion applications, Supports, railings, stairs etc. We used to use 1/4 inch but it was available up to 1/2 inch thick. Possibly thicker. If not much is required look for off cuts or sample. Cuts with a hack saw or jig saw hole saw etc. Cut, Grind, File. Can be tough on saw blade. Bonding with normal polyester resin. Scuff the surface up before bonding as it seems to have a release agent on the surface.
Any old fibergl*** or aluminum metal you can find can be easily glued to the edge to built it up, and then before it gets full height leave enough room to add one layer of fibergl*** cloth over the built up area. Once it's worked close enough I use Duragl*** filler to even any imperfections before final sanding. This should result in a strong fender edge that wont crack out or cause any issues.
The Jalopy Journal
