So I’m working on getting one of my dad’s projects working again. 1965 ford 200 I6. This has sat for probably 10 years or so since he got sick. Fuel pump works, new battery, but it spins but doesn’t even offer to fire off. I put a new coil on it today and still no luck. Spark checker I got from auto zone still shows no spark. What should I try next? Points look new, condenser new ish. I drove this thing before it was parked and it was fine, so I think something has gone bad in the years between, unless he intentionally disabled something I haven’t found, but he’s not here to ask.
Back to the basics- verify there is 12V at the positive side of the coil. Take the cap off of the distributor, spin the engine and make sure the rotor is turning, and the points are opening and closing. If all that checks out with still no spark, either the condenser or coil are bad, or something in the distributor is grounded that shouldn't be.
First pull the cap and bump the engine around so that the rubbing block on the point arm is at the tip of one of the distributor lobes. This off a 51 Chev 216 but they work the same. You set or check the gap with that rubbing block right at the tip of the cam lobe. You might want to look at the points to make sure that they aren't burned if perhaps it sat with the key turned on at some time. That could be if someone was turning the key on to play the radio and not turning it to accessory. With that checked or set put the rotor back on and put the cap back on and get out your test light and check for power to the coil with the key on and power to the coil when you crank it if it doesn't fire up or have spark.
might need to gently file the points, they tend to get corroded when sitting, and just need a little help to make contact again. A test light might tell you if they're working or not, if you put the test light on the negative side of the coil, it should flash when the engine cranks. If it stays lit, the points are not making contact.
The Jalopy Journal
