Hi everyone, I just finished watching the 2024 T.R.O.G. on YouTube, and I’m fired up! I've got a '31 A jalopy coupe that's gonna fit right in there come October 2025 . It’s got that rustic, no-paint look, and it's rocking an original refurbished 4-banger with Babbitt rods and mains. I'm looking to soup it up for the drags but need some help finding parts. So far, I’ve tracked down a used Weber carburetor with an intake manifold and picked up an FSI kit to convert my distributor to centrifugal advance and electronic points. I know I can't go too radical, but I’m on the hunt for a used 6:1 head, a high-lift cam, and anything else you gearheads can suggest. I’d also love a transmission with better ratios for 1st gear and maybe synchromesh. Any suggestions on what I’ll need to qualify for the drags and recommendations for parts are greatly appreciated. Finding used speed parts has been a bit of a challenge. Thanks in advance for the help!
I thought they had a website to send pictures into, describe some things, and they say yes no or “this needs to be done”.
You'll need to contact those in charge, through the popular Social Media website, beginning with the letter (F).
All good advice. I ran this year and it was one of the best car-related events I've been involved with. Take a look at the TROG website. The rules are listed. You may get declined with the Weber set up. A Stromberg would not be a problem. Good luck. It's certainly worth it.
Good advice from the folks here. I can tell you that using the early Ford V8 transmission (32-39 types) is apparently okay with the TROG group as we’ve built several for guys running in the race. The 32-39 transmissions will fit with the right adapter and all are synchronized into 2nd and high gear. The 39 version had the latest version synchro which was the best. Check with the other racers but I think they found that they had the best experience running on the sand by starting out in 2nd gear instead of 1st gear. Model A rear end gears were generally around 4.11 so they could start in 2nd no problem.
Making it lighter is free horsepower gain may want to loose the fenders and any other unnecessary items Good luck
100%. My first run, I started in 1st and the car was squirrely the entire run. Almost lost it getting sideways 1/2 way down the course. After that, dropped air pressure to 10 psi and started out in 2nd for the rest of my runs. Since OP has a coupe, I don't think he'll need a roll bar. He will need a five point harness and a way to mount it securely.
Check the rules.They might not let you run a weber or electronic distributor. They used to be pretty strict. I tried to run my Model A and they told me i couldn't run an alternator.
Not that it matters, but the 4 banger class was made up of basically two types of engines. Pretty much stock with some hop up add ons or full on race prepped bangers. After the first day, they take note of how you are running and try to bracket you up with someone close to your performance. Either way, you can do as many runs as you can on both days; even if you get eliminated. As others mentioned, it really was on of the best events I've ever been to. So much fun.
The official website will explain basically what the requirements are. You will submit some photos of your car and they will tell you what if anything will need to be changed. It must look like a racer and not a stock car without headlights. There will be a window of time to make your corrections. It's a great event, even if you aren't there to win, just there to have fun. Good luck.
You’re gonna need to strip that car of its fenders and lights. I doubt that Weber setup will fly. Pretty sure model A wheels are a no no too but you’ll have to look that up. Go on the website and you’ll see the rules. It isn’t complicated. It’s a fun time.
I greatly appreciate all the advice that everyone gave me. Only thing is, the question I asked about anyone having used speed parts was not answered by anyone. Without these parts and the shedding of some I already have, I want stand a chance. You can look at my ride and tell new will not go very well and the hunt is much more fun.
Used banger parts come in waves it seems like. Search for user on here "KUDZIPER" has a number of banger heads and intakes currently forsale; also a stand up guy to buy from. Check out the monthly banger thread and previous months threads for a list of parts distributors and tech articles.
Having been to the Trog at Pismo beach I'd say that making it dead nuts reliable to be able to make a pass every time your group gets called to the line is the number two priority. The number one priority is seriously studying their list of rules for racing and making damned well that you follow them to the letter. I couldn't run my flathead Ford six in my boat tail roadster at Pismo beach except in "exhibition" runs as it was not a four or a V8 and at that time I didn't want to stick the 8BA in the car. Still standing in the driving rain watching the guys racing on the sand that Saturday was a blast even if I bought the first umbrella I ever owned in my life to keep the rain off my camera and in turn off the gal who tucked in beside me under the umbrella while we were standing on the barrier. No idea who she was as we never said a word to each other she just wanted to be under the umbrella. Hard to believe that was almost 9 years ago https://photobucket.com/bucket/c5e8...74/album/048f9aec-3cd3-4a49-beac-5214b62796f5 As much as I like the look of it with the fenders on I'd have to belive that the crew who decides who gets in and who doesn't would rather see it without fenders.
Trust me, it is not about winning AT ALL. Its about the vibe, being on the beach with a ton of like minded people. Just getting your act together enough to have a car ready and accepted is 3/4's of it. The other 1/4 of it is showing up. This year, some guy drove his A roadster from Chicago. He had a TIRED banger in it and I think he actually won a heat. It's all about hooking up at the start. Low or underpowered may be to your advantage.
No A or wooden wheels allowed per the rules. They are too weak and could collapse if the car got sideways. They are trying to make it as safe as possible for all involved.
I drive on the beach all the time and i can tell you that one of the most important things is to run as fat and tall a tire as you can get away with and at very, very low pressure. I assume that bias ply’s are required, no radials? Bias ply’s you can probably run less then 10#, do some testing to find out how low you can go (you can do that on pavement, it doesn’t have to be on sand for testing). If radials were allowed you could go to 5# or less. Stock Model A cars had 3.78 gears, pickup trucks had 4.11. NuRex makes and sells a centrifical advance piece that is behind the side cover so not visible.
I see it requires a 5 point seat belt. On a coupe, where are the reccomended upper attachment points?
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