Ummm.... You sure you want to run "ported vacuum" for your vacuum advance???? I'd try using full vacuum and see how the car performs....
Good catch!! Honestly, I hadn’t noticed that. You’re right, I’ll have to try manifold vacuum. I haven’t looked to see what Ford did from the factory. I need to do a full tune work up on it, compression check, look at the plugs, check the timing. So far, I’ve only fiddled with the carb adjustments because it was idling very high when I got it. It seems lazy, like it’s retarded. Unfortunately, right now I have to work on it outdoors and it’s been raining a bunch so I haven’t messed with it. Just gathering parts and information mostly. Thanks for noticing that, I was focusing on getting rid of the rubber fuel lines and uncluttering the top of the engine.
You could move the heater hose connection to the water outlet and then use the manifold port for the temp. The heater isn't going to know the difference and what ever size you can find for the outlet port in the water outlet 3/8 or 1/2" you could nipple accordingly.
Yep, I think that’s going to be the plan. I ordered a new thermostat housing and if it’s the right one, I’m going to modify it and attach the heater hose there. That will free up the port in the intake manifold for my temperature gauge. I ordered the Hi-Po 427 fuel filter and bracket, when it arrives the front of the engine will get a bit of upgrading with new fuel lines, return springs, temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge and a look at the vacuum lines for the transmission and vacuum advance.
That paint job is really strange. At first I thought it was just the reflection of a car parked off camera to the left but then I noticed the deck lid. Somebody was trippin’….
You will probably find that the modulator set screw will do this again. And again. And... I'm sure you get the idea by now! Once you get it dialed in I would do something to secure it so this doesn't happen again. Count the turns while unscrewing it, add a drop of Loctite blue or just slightly crimp the modulator nipple (Yeah, baby!) to keep it in place. One other problem with the vacuum modulator is fuel condensate collecting down at the modulator, fouling it up. Once Ford discovered the problem they started routing the vacuum modulator line so that it rose above the carburetor and then down to the modulator, allowing collected condensate to be drawn back into the engine. Usually by mounting the line to the firewall and running it up and then down in later years. I made this to go behind my carb when I had a C4 in my Mustang. It's the loopy thing in the pic! Nice car and the FE in it rocks!
Oooohh….. That explains the goofy vacuum line back against the firewall!! Thanks! I wonder why GM didn’t have issues with fuel condensate. I’ve never looped the vacuum modulator line in my life and I’ve never had a problem. I don’t recall seeing it on anything but Fords. Learn something new every day!
The rain has stopped for the time being so I uncovered the Ranchero and took it for a ride. I got it out on the highway and stomped on it. No coughs or hiccups, it accelerated smoothly and shifted into high gear around 75 mph at full throttle. Shifts were somewhat lazy but no slipping. When I got back I decided to take a look at the current tuneup. I found that the only visible markings on the damper were a couple of tick marks and a number 10. No factory TDC mark. However, the engine builder did put a little white dot on there that appears to be TDC. With my dial back timing light I noted that it was set at “0”. So I put it at 5 degrees and it sounded better, another 5 (10 btdc) and it’s much happier. After adjusting the idle speed, I took it for another run. Waay better. Now it’s starting to feel like a big block Fairlane. I also gave the vacuum modulator two more turns. That’s about all that I think I’ll give it. It’s shifting normally now. I’m going to buy a new one and swap it out when convenient. I’m also thinking of changing the ATF and replacing it with a performance brand to see if it helps quicken up the shifts. Anyone know where Ford originally got vacuum for the vacuum advance? Was it full vac or ported at the carburetor?
Fords of the day used type F trans fluid. That’s what I’m using in the 57 in my avatar. My c6 shifts very firm but I do have stage 2 shift kit and use the r-code servo.
Whose shift kit did you use? I don’t think they put one in during the rebuild. I assume that the previous owner put Type F in it after the rebuild, he was a fairly knowledgeable guy. I usually change the fluids and filters immediately when I buy something so I know for sure and I’m on my own service schedule. I’m curious as to whether the high performance ATF improves the feel or not.
Trans go. From what remember there are three stages, 1 for mild performance/ towing, 2 for much firmer shifts, I think it was just installing firmer springs to up the line pressure and 3 which is the same as 2 but makes the trans fully manual. From what I’ve heard on the internet, so you it’s always true, is the B&M trick shift trans fluid is rebottled type f. type f will help with firmer shifts but is more susceptible to heat I because of the different friction modifier package in the oil.
Thanks. I’ve used TransGo kits before with great results, I’ll look into it. What do you know about the vacuum modulators? Mine has a green stripe in it. I see that there’s a black stripe and a gray or white stripe. I’m not sure whether mine is a screw-in or a clamp, I’ll look today. Other than the mounting style, they mention the pin length. Just trying to figure out what to order.
I’ve experimented with different length pins and also with different weights in the governor to delay up shifts. There was a way to determine to correct length pin by threading in the modulator and giving the pin a .030-.050 preload. DONT quote me on this but it was along those lines. I have a 1/2 dozen or so I made up from welding rod. I read all this from one of 429-460 sites, there are a couple of trans guys who are very sharp with c4 c6’s. I’ll also say my engine doesn’t produce enough vacuum to shift properly most of the time anyways.
It is ALWAYS best to verify TDC with a piston stop and mark the balancer accordingly. That said....I found out on my boys old 390 that 10 degrees is a good starting point. Shade-tree method is advance it until it starts to rattle going up a hill(at low speed in top gear) and then turn it back until its quiet. Also....when its warmed up and the starter struggles..turn it back a few degrees. 15 before TDC really feels peppy...with a good tune on the carb. I use B&M Trick shift in my S-10 with a shift kit. Maybe its all in my head but the shifts DO feel firmer. (I haven't got brave enough to put F-type in a 4L-60 yet...maybe the trick shift IS type F ?!?) One-of-these-days..I'm gonna try drilling holes in the governor to extend my shift points. A/T just shift between gears too soon to make me happy. I KNOW its a factory thang to increase MPG...but still ! 6sally6
Love the Ranchero! I've been wanting one for a while; just haven't pulled the trigger. '66-'67 Fairlanes are my favorite car, BTW. Have owned several. My '66 convertible started life as a 289/C4/8" car, bronze with bronze guts. When I was done with it, it got a new color combo, a built 428, toploader, and a 3.50 geared 9". Sold it a year or so ago. My old '67 also started life with a 289/C4/8". It was upgraded to an 800 hp 514 (bored/stroked 429), built C4, 9".
Over the last few days I pulled the stock 17” steering wheel and swapped in a few different sizes that I had lying around. The 13.5” Superior 500 riveted wood wheel worked the best so far. It did tone down the over powered power steering, giving it a better “feel” except that it seems a little too small. I ordered a 15”, it should be here shortly. I hope it has a similar feel to the smaller one.
I’m wearing out the wing nut on the air cleaner. While assessing the options for improving the fuel lines it was obvious that the monkey motion PCV lines would have to go. It would interfere with the new hard lines. It was causing a slight kink in the rear bowl feed hose. So I yanked it all out. Before…. All this stuff was removed….. After…. I would have gone ahead with the new fuel lines but the heater hose and fitting are in the way so I decided to wait until my new thermostat housing arrives and I get a chance to modify it. That will clear the way for all of the new lines. I did get one of the 427 style fuel filters and the bracket. All I need is some 3/8” hard line. I do need a new grommet for the PCV valve, it’s pretty sloppy. Also a valve with a 90 degree fitting would help clean up the hoses.
I’ve been seeing (semi) local ads for used late ‘60s Mustang lowering springs and shocks and stuff on Craigslist and Marketplace for some pretty attractive prices. Do Mustang leaf springs and front coil springs interchange with the ‘67 Fairlane stuff? 2” lowering springs would set my Ranchero just about where I want it and $400 (or less) for everything seems like a decent buy-in compared to $400 for just the two rear leaf springs. But will Mustang springs fit the Fairlane??
In my Moog catalog I'm showing the ball joints, shafts and bushings being the same between Mustang and Fairlane. I would guess the springs would work. I don't have the spring catalog though.
I’m pretty sure that the front springs would work but the rear leaf springs could be a different length or have the center pin in a slightly different location.
Mustang springs are a lighter weight spring (650 lb) than the Fairlane (750 lb) per Rock Auto listings
I have noticed 4 leaf springs for Mustangs and Fairlane coupes and 5 leaf for Rancheros. Wondering if that’s the only difference. One thing I’ve noticed about my Ranchero is that it is definitely not a great handler. It’s pretty wobbly and overreacts to steering input. Maier (sp?) makes a rear Panhard bar kit to help with that. That makes me reluctant to just install a set of 2” lowering blocks. That’s why I’m looking at lowering springs. Ordinarily, I would just throw in the 2” blocks that I already have and be done.
Look into the Arning drop/Shelby drop so many of us (M-word) guys love so much. Not sure if it applies to your Fairlane but.....it makes a HUGE difference in the handling HUGE ! The template to re-drill the UCA mounting holes are all over the net. HUGE 6sally6
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