Featured Technical ***Janudreary 2025 Banger Meet Thread - Another trip around the sun ***

Link to previous month: December 2024 Banger Meet

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
Stay safe.

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: jimb4e4@gmail.com
phone: 951-695-7313.

A few links to speed equipment companies there may be more
https://specialtymotorcams.com/index.php#header
http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/index.html
http://www.modelatrader.com/brumfield/brumfield.html
https://www.hotforhotfours.com/advertisers.htm
https://www.secretsofspeed.com/speed-parts
https://eraspeed.com/

Bert's, Synder's, Mikes affordable also list some speed performance parts.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

Check that out… first again!

Happy new year fellas!

 

Is it really 1st if there is no race? He He !!

 

Checking in

 

Happy New Year

 

January, dreary for some, but summer down here.

I'm placing to replace the rear shockers on the coupe.

Not too many reasonable used ones around though, so it'll be quiet a while to get the $ for new ones. Bugger

 

Merry Motoring and Happy Next Gear

 

Getting my banger motor back from the builder this month! In the meantime - I have a stock Model A exhaust set-up that I wish to mount behind a Red's header. Will it restrict my motor (will be a stock motor with 6:1 head, touring cam, 97 carb and electronic ignition)? Is it possible to make it "louder by removing baffles (no idea what the inside of a stock Model A muffler looks like)? I really like the look of the stock exhaust and am willing to do some internal work if needed for exhaust flow and a little more noise, however, if it won't work with my motor, I will go to another muffler as recommended by the group.

 

If you like the look of the original, here are a few options that will work with your motor.

https://www.mikes-afordable.com/category/1077.html

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/subgrouping.htm?cat=41736

https://amuffler.com/products.html

Warren

 

Poor old Fordor had been sat out in the drive for months. Or longer. So after Christmas I drained the filter bowl, cleaned out the 94 and replaced a leaky fuel line, filed the points, sorted the starter switch, popped on a fresh battery, added some fresh fuel and… it fired up straight away.

Excellent.

So, the following day we made a foggy 100 mile round trip convoy to the seaside. Too cold for ice cream though.

 

Checking in, hope to have something to add this month

 

Starting on 4 Winfield S-C throttle barrels that are gettin new oversize butterflies. The throttle position at idle with multi carb setups is pretty critical. A touch more open will energize the intermediate circuit and lead to imbalance. Looks like these carbs will need +.020” oversize butterflies to make up for wear in the barrels

 

DUN!

 

With a new house, new barn and new Grandson, been seeing mine from outside the garage more than inside.

 

Short answer...run it with the header and no additional exhaust to see how it performs...then install the stock and see what it does....
I have heard that a stock exhaust "is good to about 80 hp" or I have a buddy that says that....basis for his statement; unknown but I see that number in the aftermarket catalogues. They state the 'performance' exhaust baffle plates are opened up and it is louder than stock
My experience was that I put the header flange adaptor on a stock A muffler/exhaust on my Vicky. 2" inlet and 1.5" outlet/tail pipe that makes over 80 hp. It worked temporary but benefitted from a custom 2.5" exhaust
It is really easy to pull the whole A stock exhaust system from the header with the flange....
I don't know how patient you are or how good you are with a gas Oxy/Acetylene torch, but I think with a cutoff wheel and a some messing around you could make your own 'performance muffler'
Good luck

 

Anyone know who has the shouldered one piece guides in stock? I prefer them to the press in guides but they seem to be made of unobtanium except as part of a valve kit.

 

@meteorpete - I had good luck cutting my muffler in half right behind the front baffle, cut it out completely, then stuck a crowbar down to the narrow end and punched that baffle out. Welded it back together and it was slightly louder but made a pretty fair difference in mileage. Still looked stock when I was done except for the weld.

 

I am running the reds header with a Smithy's Muffler and it sounds good. I just ran the exhaust out in front of the rear tire. mine is a 32 with a B motor.

 

Stumbled across this doing some reading over Christmas, twin T engines paired up for a light tank Ford was testing for WW1

 

Mike's Affordable sells a set of eight for 69.50 USD. I bought a set from Mac's a few years ago; they might still be available from Eckler's. I paired mine with a set of valve spring spacers from Charlie Yapp. If you put the spacer between the guide and the block you get more spring pressure and less guide in the ports.

 

Can anyone point me to a thread, book or other reference to walk me through tuninng my B motor with the dual strombergs? I am new to tuning and the timing vs float levels, right spark plugs, jets is a bit overwhelming. I runs pretty good but has a bog at low RPM.

 

From the links in the header;

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Thanks @Jiminy!

 

Bog at low RPM...just a thought...I usually have a buddy (one that has some automotive sense, not from the sewing circle) follow me and look at the tailpipe outlet to see of there is black puffs thru the operation range. Communication via hands free cell phone is helpful real time feedback. Black = rich condition and need to take steps to lean out... smaller jets or if it stumbles and no black smoke....lean or even timing adjustment.
You didn't say which ones you are running plus there are a lot of variables like compression ratio, cam, altitude, ignition timing, gasoline....for a few
The following is just my experience....
https://stromberg-97.com/information/tech-centre/ is a good read plus there is a detailed explanation of the carburetor circuitry
I have both stock manufactured and 'modern' Stromberg 81's on two different bangers
You will need patience, jets, gaskets and tools
You will need to get a jet tool....I bought the ones I have off of the inner web and the best ones are the used, earlier 'vintage' ones. My favorite is a Snap On 1/4" drive socket but difficult to use on the back carb due to the interference of the intake crossover.
You will probably need to downsize jets and I run one of mine with the power valves disabled. (dyno tuned) The power valves are actuated by the accelerator pump and clipping the stem on the pv is an approach to disable

There is a lean/rich situation with the A/B siamese intake ports so you need to tune to the plugs on the 2&3 cylinders (tan/brown electrode color) and leave 1&4 looking rich (black side of things) the A/B engines like rich as opposed to lean. For the spark plug /performance tuning, you need to read the plugs immediately after driving, no idling. I have a 'calibration hill' that I pull up that is a 3 mile pull with a 4% grade. I coast to a stop at a pull out at the top and read plugs. Make my changes and repeat.
I usually tune to achieve maximum speed at the top of the hill.
Feel free to PM me if you wish and I will try to assist as much as I can to my limited ability
Good luck

 

I am running original 81's that were build a while back by Uncle Max. Has a Brierly 1R cam, Simmons power head, reds header with a smithy's. I am out of town for a week or so then plan to jump on it. Going to also pick up a handheld AFR Wideband and learn to use it. I will have limited road testing for a whaile as there is snow and salt on the roads. Thanks for the information.

 

Yes, we got more salt and cinders today than snow... but the 18 wheelers still crashed and shut down the interstate
sampling with an AFR is fine but you really then need a 4 channel to tune and the sample rate is so fast that if you are like me, you will need to record all the readings and play them back slow to catch what is going on...that is why the big dollar boys go with data logging and a laptop....I'm a poor boy with spark plug interpolation but you might be able to associate your AFR reading with spark plug insulator color...
Good luck

 

Today was goin good… till it wasn’t! I went to Lock-N-Stitch to drop of a single intake port ROOF Liberty 8 overhead for my T touring car. It had a couple small cracks on top and the water neck holes were waaay oversize. Figured the cost of the tools were roughly the same cost as hiring them to repair. All was good until we spotted a big crack at the bottom of the center exhaust port! Well shit! They say they would have to cut out a big chunk of casting to get to the crack, then weld the removed pieces back in layer by layer. Not the $500 repair I was hoping for…!

 

Ouch! We use loc-n-stitch over here, great product, but that sounds like a tough day!

 

Looks like the Cling's website is back online:

https://www.clingsproducts.com/home

 

Making progress! The back story on this car is that I purchased one of the early T-5/Model A conversion kits from Automotive Restoration in 2001. Fast forward to today. There were issues with the kit that required a custom clutch disk and a bastardized throw out bearing set up. I wanted to use all A stuff when I installed the new engine. It was a bitch to find T-5 shaft seals and shims. Also needed a a special machined part to extend the T-5 shaft so I could use an A throw out bearing set up along with an A clutch disk. I spent a lot of time and money so the next owner won’t have too! Hope to have it on the road by the end of the month.

 

Not too much to report on, I'm an hour and a half north of the fires so we're catching the smoke. Doing the car shuffle around here, hoping to be looking for a Slant Window soon.

I'm currently tracking down more history on Miller stuff.
Apparently before Steve Serr was tooling the Miller heads, they were in Denver Colorado. Would you guys know anything about the history of the heads when they were coming out of there? Thank you!!