I believe that many assume that an SBC is an SBC, but I don't. So, since I have zero experience with 283's, I have some rather basic questions to ask. 1. Does it have the same tranny bolt pattern as a 350? I'd like to get something other than a P-glide if I go automatic. 2. Internally balanced? 3. Edelbrock had an intake for these engines called a CH3 or something like that, refresh my memory please. 4. Any good reference books on 283's?
To answer your questions in order: 1. Yes. 2. Yes. 3. You're thinking of the C4B. Edelbrock came out with it in '62, followed by the similar C3B and later, C3BX. 4. There's a book out currently that concerns itself mainly with 283 performance, but the title escapes me. I'm sure that one of the HAMBers will chime in with it.
that's part of the reason chevys are so popular...the 283 has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as all the other small block chevy engines, all the big block chevy engines (including the W motors), and the 63-up straight 6s and the 90 degree Chevy V6.
The only thing I ran into over the years between the 283, 327, 350 is that the 283 has a shorter oil pump shaft. I had a ARP shaft and it was too long for the 283. Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong. I had several 1967 283's out of chevy II's and they all had the shorter oil pump shaft. I am not 100% if the shorter shaft had to do with the chevy II's weird oil pump set up or not. I also had a bitch of a time finding a ring compressor that went down to the correct size bore.
Check the date of the block you are using if it is a 1957 or possible early 1958 it will NOT take a T-350 trans. Make sure it has side motor mount castings. Or that is another problem. The 58 and earlier have the early oiling system galleries etc and while great for street use they are not great for serious racing. These early engine requires a special camshaft and you CANNOT use the wrong one or you will not receive oil to the upper end of the engine. Also the early 60's blocks are better than late 60's blocks. You may luck out and have a forged crank also. Alot of them were. PM me for more info, I used to run a 283 and spun it to 8500 on a regular basis. They can be built to love it. I am currently running a 301 in my 55. Don't let anyone tell you you need cubes to win races. The manifold you are referring to is the old Edelbrock C3B. I have one that will be for sale soon, if you are looking for one. PM me if you want more small cubic inch engine info.
my 283 is a 57 block. if you wanna use a stick, i used a truck bellhousing with the bellhousing mounts, and bolted a t-5 right to it.
'55-'56 blocks required the notched camshaft. Legend has it that '58-'62 blocks would take a .125 inch overbore, and all '55-'63 283s had forged crankshafts.
When I looked at the valve covers in the picture they do not appear to be staggered bolt heads, so I am pretty sure I am in the clear there. If memory serves, the way you make a 301 is to stick a 327 crank in a 283, correct? I know Glen (AHotRod) here on the HAMB has one, I have heard it myself, it is a real screamer. What heads are best for that application?
I believe a 301 is a 283 bored .120. Stock 283 bore is 3.88 inches, boring it .120 gives a bore of 4 inches, with a 3 inch stroke making 301.44 inches. When Chevy took the 327 bore and 283 stroke, they called it a 302 instead of a 301. A 283 with a 327 crank yields 307 cu. in.
If you are going to run a vintage looking motor use the 1.94 fuelie heads. Very period. If you have money to spend then you could buy the World Product Torker heads, they flow better, but it does not matter until about 7000 grand. If you are looking for a cheap easy upgrade get 84-88 Chevy Monte Carlo 305 heads. They are cheap, come with hardened valve seats, are obviously newer so probably not as overall worn out. Probably get away with just a valve job. They will also boost your compression ratio slightly if I recall correctly. You have not mentioned what the application will be, this might be over kill for a street car. Remember these came stock with a 1.77 Intake valve and the engine was able to produce 283 HP stock in its finest factory trim. Bore the thing to 292 if it needs it ( .60) over if not run it the way it is and replace heads and cam.
so since we're on the subject of vintage SBC's, does anyone have a clue what it takes to build a 352 stroker? I know it was built before 1961, because it won Top Eliminator for that year in a slingshot dragster...I want to do a reproduction of that car and have been trying to figure out the motor...I know the crank was custom made by Crane Cams, but wanted to know if it was a 283 or a 327 or if it even mattered which block I started with...
A 4" bore with a 3 1/2" stroke will make a 352'Baner stocker" a Duntov solid cam was the hot setup in the day also. With the right springs(Isky rev kit) you can really make a 283 scream.I occasionally touched 9000 rpm, (And then once too ofter.BOOM!!)Sparky
this would have had a 671 GMC blower, dual Hilborn hat injection, custom Crane stroker crank and camshaft, custom built blower drive, and god knows what other internals...the only info I can find on the car/motor is from old hot rod mags, and they never tell any secrets in there because the car was still being raced...it beat a lot of hemi slingshots though, and that's a tough feat...
If you are serioous I have an original Mickey Thompson 3/58 stroker crank that is unused. Period eraly 60's. For use in a 327 I had 2, we used one in my 56 chevy, it is awesome!!! Let me know. Thanks!!
I'm am currently in the process of rebuilding a 67' 283 from a c10. It's my first motor to ever do myself. I would like to know any tricks I could do to make more power. And what really makes a 283 unique from any other 350 besides the fact that it isnt a 350? I'd like to build the engine to be used in some sort of street application. What's a good car to put this engine in?
283s have smaller crankshaft journals than 350s do, as well as a .480 inch shorter stroke--that's why they like rpms. In a light car (<3000 lbs.) with a standard transmission and stiff gears, a well built 283 will provide good acceleration.
a 327 crank into a 283 block gives you 307 , and not the most popular SBC around as for boring , you will here all sorts of opinions on this....some will say you can go .125 on early blocks (58-62) , some will say it's fine only on later (63-up) blocks. i say with 40+ years of rusting and rust pits , core shift during casting..anything over .060 is a crap shoot..and have it sonic tested first. keep in mind that sonic testing may not find an isolated deep rust pit. just my 2 cents
Yes, people need to understand that the reason 283s used to be bored out to 4 inches in the first place is that there was no big inch small block alternative. Once the 327 came out in '62, and became available in junkyards, that was the better way to go.
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