I think this really looks good , and would like to mount my tail lights the same way, but I'm not sure if this was done with a die or hand formed or what. Anyone know a good way to do this?
I'd guess it was custom, either hand formed or as you say, a pair of dies. If a company made a flat panel with a flare for a '39 teardrop, it wouldn't work on a curved panel like this, requiring hand forming anyway. If you wanted to replicate this yourself, a die that's curved and shaped to make the flare could be fabb'ed out of wood if that's easier for your skills, but I'd expect even if you got 2 panels ready to weld in with the proper curve and flush to the housings, there would be metal finishing involved after they were installed. It's one of those little signatures of a well crafted hot rod that whispers, "I've got the eye and the skills". EDIT: I'll mention that it is sticking out at the top, and inset at the bottom. They went for an exact angle of the light, then split the difference top and bottom. Not all inset, not all bulging out. Master work.
Been thinking about something like that for my tail lights. One option, could either buy or hammerform a pair of frenching buckets for the tail lights. Make a hammerform or a pair of dies for the top roll. Trim the buckets to fit and weld. Edit: RodStRace types faster than I do.
Really nice workmanship, would take a lot of time and talent to inset them and flare the top. I have seen the inset and the kits to do that but this is above and beyond that!
I hate to use the S word but Speedway and no doubt several others sell the recessed buckets for a 39 tail light to make it easy to french it in and then make your own lip like in the photo.
I would think it is to better to hammer form a bucket, then weld it to the panel. Trying to hammer form a bucket in to the panel will not leave enough room for the hammer. I made these buckets that way and rolled a flange to butt weld to the panel
Thanks........... Due to the somewhat difficult shape, I think these might work as a good starting point. I think they could be embedded in the panel and then trimmed and maybe a small rod attached to the protruding part for some roundness and dressed to a decent shape. I can try it on some slightly rolled scrap sheetmetal and see if it works out like I'm thinking.
Another option....Holohan's Hot Rod Shop sells panels (looks flush) that you could tack rod to and profile. Expensive though. https://holohanshotrods.com/product/1938-39-ford-taillights-recessed-panels/
I’m hillbilly tech at my shop I’d make it with a hammer Before I knew what a bead roller was I used hammers. Still do for stuff the roller can’t
I agree with Anthony. I'd be done with that in short order. careful calculating on how much to cut out would be very important. Patterns are cheap and disposable.
I'd use the buckets, protrude the top lip of the bucket outside the rear panel, weld some round rod around the top lip the grind and shape that rod to my desired shape. I've got to find ways "around" metal shaping by hand because I'm much better at welding and grinding !! @anthony myrick can I bring my 31 Tudor and come play at your house for a while ??!! ....
A bucket isn’t very hard to make We built these for modified 51 merc lights it does help when building to fit crusty pieces though. Almost hammerd a detail like you’re asking about on the top. Decided to leave it smooth
With a stamping machine or Pullmax you can machine/grind and file male and female dies to a desired profile. The taper part is learning how and when to back off the machine. Or whack it with a hammer. Here’s a crude tutorial how. Figure out a shape (piece of scrap 18 gauge from the floor) (Crude scribe to speed up this mess) Then start whacking. I use the chisel end of a body hammer and hit the other end with a rubber mallet then flip over and continue whacking flip back and forth until ya get the shape ya want The edge of a bench comes in handy(wood on steel bench) keep flipping and whacking then clean it up. Quick crude tutorial You can keep hammering and sharpening up detail and better finish work if desired. This one tapers towards the curve. You’d be surprised how deep you can stretch this stuff Tools used: chisel hammer, rubber mallet, pieces of wood, sturdy bench. This shaping chisel set helps
Good stuff. love to see metal shaping on the hamb. Good idea to go this route as those flat tail lights never sit that great on the curved below deck panel.