Dropped center link

I have a 55 Chevy PU that needs a dropped center link. I know that some just weld on some "Z" shaped pieced of steel to a cut up link, but I was thinking it might look better, and be safer (no welding) if I just use a piece of 3/4" solid bar. Bend the pieces into the right shape, with a torch helping, and thread the ends for tie rods sleeves.
Is this safe? Do I need to heat treat, or stabilize the part afterwards? Slow cool after heating and bending?

 

Is the center link adjustable for length like a tie rod would be?

3/4" sounds a little flimsy to me.
The usual tie rod/drag link/4 bar/radius rod front end stuff uses 7/8" x .156 wall tubing for the most part.

Easily tapped for the uncommon Ford - sorta - proprietary 11/16-18 thread, but also taps easy for 5/8 - NF.

I've seen the 7/8" tubing with mild bends at the ends used for tie rods and drag links on roadsters & coupes.
Usually there's an adjuster in the middle with left and right hand threads.
The middle adjuster is needed because the tie rod/drag link can only be installed with the low part down and you're lacking in adjustment capability without the center adjuster.

Any chance you could take the easier way out and notch the oil pan?
A simple front notch can be filled with a quarter section of the proper size exhaust tubing.

 

3/4" is what is already there! Solid bar, as far as it feels, weight-wise. I would tend to think is is sufficient, as it is a truck. It has threaded ends for the tie rod sleeves to go to.
The drop is more for clearing the leaf springs, than the oil pan. The axle has been reversed to sit on top of the spring instead of below it, to lower it.
I guess the other option would be to bend the steering arms? Higher, or lower for the link to clear the springs? That makes me more concerned than just making up a new center link!

 

be careful droping a center link. Once you put a bend in it you are no longer in pure compression, tension and then link is more prone to bend (which can cause alot of issues).

 

I did alot of research before having my axle dropped instead of flipping it. several who did this ended up changing it because problems like bumpsteer, and binding steering.
Could you reverse the tierod from on top to the bottom?

 

a company out in california called tri-c (does that sound right.???) did this solid bar deal in a article in rod and custom back in the mid to late 90's.....custom suspension under maybe a early 50's buick......might be worth a look ......brandon