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Technical 1940 ford rear drum removal

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Sdsurfer01, Jun 25, 2023.

  1. Sdsurfer01
    Joined: Jul 2, 2020
    Posts: 103

    Sdsurfer01

    Good afternoon all,

    I’m trying to get the drum off the rears on a 1932 ford with 1940 brakes. I used a puller and broke it free, but it slides out about 1/2 an inch then gets stuck. There appears to be a pin or something keyed that’s stopping it. See photo below, it’s in the notch.

    Thoughts?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. '29 Gizmo
    Joined: Nov 6, 2022
    Posts: 1,062

    '29 Gizmo
    Member
    from UK

    The key is to stop the axle turning in the hub. Should not affect the hub removal. Have you got the brake shoes wound right off.
     
  3. IMG_6329.jpeg

    Unless the drum turned on the axle and the jetway is jammed .
    Most likely there is a ridge on the drum and the shoes are holding it .


    Can you get two pry bars between the backing plate and drum and walk the drum off ?


    Now that it’s loose you could use a slide hammer and hub attachment to get it the rest of the way off .
     
  4. Pete Eastwood
    Joined: Jul 27, 2011
    Posts: 1,300

    Pete Eastwood
    Member
    from california

    look at the 4 bolts that hold the backing plate on.
    If two of the 4 bolts are long studs, then your rear end has "Safety hubs"
    If so, remove the nuts on the long studs, and then the drum should slide off.
     
    Tim, Packrat, 42merc and 5 others like this.
  5. Sdsurfer01
    Joined: Jul 2, 2020
    Posts: 103

    Sdsurfer01

    I tried to get a good photo but hard. It does appear 2 bolts are long studs. I never knew why… lol

    so remove those and try again?
     

    Attached Files:

  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,682

    alchemy
    Member

    I bet more safety hubs have saved hubs from being removed by young guys than ever did by broken axle.
     
  7. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,619

    Atwater Mike
    Member

  8. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,799

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    The studs only hour the backing plate on and the long ones are for the radius rods. you need to back off all 4 brake adjusters the Botton two are eccentrics that you have to turn they have springs under them to keep them in place and the top ones you need to break loose the lock nut to turn the small bolt to back off the brakes. Some times they can be troublesome.
     
  9. The long studs are for safety hubs.

    The radius rods are fastened to the axle tube.
     
    saltracer219 likes this.
  10. Sdsurfer01
    Joined: Jul 2, 2020
    Posts: 103

    Sdsurfer01

    Re opening this thread because I can’t seem to get the hub off for some reason today. Once I removed the 4 back nuts no issues the other 5 or 6 times I’ve taken it off.

    but not today. Won’t come off…

    any other tips?
     
  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,682

    alchemy
    Member

    If you still get the half inch before it stops, I’d say give the studs of the safety hub a tap to knock it loose. If you can’t get the hub to pop loose from the axle shaft, I’d say you probably got it tightened up properly the last time you put the nut on.
     
  12. Sdsurfer01
    Joined: Jul 2, 2020
    Posts: 103

    Sdsurfer01

    Yeah I think the last times I’ve taken it off I didn’t torque the axle nut to specs before and the last time I put it on I was like: I should tighten to specs…

    I did try a slight tap on hub studs and it has some play in it but not much.

    I think the brake pads are still out a little cuz when I spin wheel I hear grinding. But can’t seem to adjust them correctly to not rub anymore. Even tried the top and bottom adjustment screws and it tightens to none spinning but never truly freely spins.

    I also left out pressure on brake bleed screw to see if that will help.

    I ordered a puller tool, should be here Tuesday and I’ll see if that works.

    would the key be stopping it if I put it in upside down or something like that?
     
  13. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,682

    alchemy
    Member

    The correct KR Wilson style tool is a must.
     
  14. I didn't know they made a tool for removing safety hubs, I thought you just removed the 4 nuts and they came off.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2025
  15. Be sure to reinstall the safety hubs when you put the drums back on. They are like a fire extinguisher, it is better to have them and not need them than to need them and not have them. Be sure to torque the axle nuts to spec and then retighten it, maybe a couple of times until they stop moving. I have them on my '32. From your photo in your first post you just need to remove the 4 nuts shown in post #5 and the drum will come off.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2025
    LOU WELLS likes this.
  16. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,682

    alchemy
    Member

    .

    I meant a Wilson puller for the Ford hub.
     
  17. ClarkH likes this.
  18. Sdsurfer01
    Joined: Jul 2, 2020
    Posts: 103

    Sdsurfer01

    I got a similar tool from the online retailer that gives me “free” 2 day shipping because I wanted to get this done before it got colder next week.

    Worked in like 30 seconds so all good.

    Thanks for the help all.
     

    Attached Files:

    ottersea likes this.
  19. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,257

    Andy
    Member

    I think the key might be stuck in the hub. I would take a punch a give it a hit on the end with a hammer.
     
  20. xix32
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 604

    xix32
    Member

    It looks like the end of your axle is swelled out by somebody beating on it with a hammer, if that is the case you won't be able to thread on the axle nut. you'll have to clean up the threads by installing a split die like this in beyond the damaged and "unscrew" it out .
    5:8-18 split die.JPG
     

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