I think you may have 1.94 heads. They shared the same casting number. 2.02 heads the valves almost touch.. here’s a pic
I planned on saying that very thing Mark, also a bit odd that someone installed the "461" (early/mid 60's) heads on that "010" block.
The intakes are not 2.02's. I had my apple crown royal glasses on that night. I will measure what they are and report my findings. Ya'll have some good eye's!
So instead of building a 388 stroker I'm thinking about a 396 SBC. Go big or go home. I have done some research about it and I'm gonna compile a parts list and see what the difference in price is between the two. Either way the motor is going to be a stroker. Here are 2 pic's of the valves.
that 350 turbo auto trans might hit your floor board as its a bit bigger in diameter than the old 4 speed. Never thought l'd have to put a 'trans tunnel' in a '41 Chevy but had too
Those heads will give you a fairly high compression engine as the combustion chambers are fairly small. With flat top pistons I'd guess around 10.75:1 c.r. and I have the same engine and heads on the 355 in my Austin gasser. It needs premium pump gas and some race fuel added at each fill to not ping under hard acceleration. So you might want to consider a little lower deck height on pistons to be able to just run premium and no race fuel, or octane booster. Hope all that rubber fuel line at the firewall is going away? Wonder how far that goes towards the gas tank? Looks scary to me since a friend lost his '56 Chevy to too much rubber fuel line. And I'd also move the pressure regulator off the firewall to the frame. Glad you're making it better, and you'll really enjoy the 700R4 on the freeway or at launch in first!
All the old is getting replaced. Fuel, brake and wiring. The FPR was mounted there when we got it. It fed over to the triple line block that fed the tri power.
What did the short block start out as? 350? Don't see a road draft tube. Those heads might have been 62cc and would have close to 10.4:1 with .040 quench, and 6cc 4 valve relief flat tops.
Did not read thread word for word , But 396 is going to be a wast of $ with out heads , Even with 2.02 heads with out major porting , & With out going extreme , 195 plus cfms heads 10-5:-1 plus & 780 plus cfm of cab or cab's . 396 will be only pulling 5,500 to 6,000 .500 L 300 D, just saying .. New Cams are iffy, most of us prefer rollers now ,hydraulic or solid, If you are wanting more R's need better parts to last , I like the 377 big bore short stroke , over the 383 , both will need good ported 2.02 heads, Stock center bolt Vortec flow as much as Ported old 2.02s . Even the 86-87 Vett I -Roc heads Iron good & are hard to find some what , thats me , Same ,377 , 383 need better parts if wanting 7,000 - 7,500 rpms & wanting to be reliable, My 427 sbc I only turn it 6,000 rpms , aftermarket block , crank , rods medium price Cr & Rs 18 hundred.. With 220 cfm heads & pedestal shaft rockers on pump gas , Floor ,, Replace wood with new if needed, I ran my "A" sedan with original wooden floors 100-110 mph in 1/8 stock bucket seats,, Do not recommend , but that's what I did, A 700R will need up graded parts , A decent torque converter 8 hundred plus , 2,200 - 3,300 ... Make sure TV adjusted correct, if not it will destroy the transmission very quickly, I did not see why removing T10 If wanting OD pick up a what I call 3 speed with Over drive , witch is a 4 speed manual trains 1-3rd geared close 4 is OD.. In a Roadster , keep Rpm's right around 6,000 might run / be quicker than you want & easier on parts small cid engine , A sock short block 400 with mild ported 2.02 64 chamber heads ,little .490-,500 lift cam & spring , 1-3/4 - 7/8s primary tubes 2-1/2 exh, 750 - 780 carb , Torqer , low team G or Holley low strip 5,500 - 5,800 will run 7:70s - 8:00 , 3:55 gear L60 in 1/8 with tunning . 67-69 Camaro / Nova 68-73. Back mid 80s using a Blue Racer
I've decided against the 396 due to those issues. Already have the 383 kit on order. It comes with everything I need to build the short block and work the heads I have over. Before I do anything to a car, bike or anything mechanical I do A LOT of research. I learned A LONG time ago buy it once and buy it right. I don't cut corners or cheap out on parts just to repair or replace down the road. I build them to be beaten and take a beating.
Didn't get anything done this weekend with the kids. But parts are starting to get ordered so pretty soon I will have plenty to do. The trans kit is going to be ordered soon. I've been looking at torque converters and all the sites I've looked at so far say they are out of stock! Is there a shortage on torque converters?
Spent a week and a half knocked down with the flu. Finally yesterday before work I swapped engine blocks on the stand. Cleaned the bores and main webs to mock up the crank so I can assemble the pistons and rods. Then start dropping them in the bores and see how much material I will have to remove. The rods are SCAT so they are clearanced some already. Also not going to rebuild the 700r4 I have. Too many small parts missing. Instead were gonna buy a 1st gen 4L60E and run a hand held programmer.
Before work yesterday I installed the #1 and #2 rod piston sets and rotated the assembly. Scat did a great job. Everything clears the block and rotates without issue. So tomorrow I will install the rest and make sure it's all good. If your looking to build a stroker Scat is the way to go.
Make sure to check oil pump/pickup and cam too. Good to hear of parts that work right out of the box.
Bought a longer pickup and deeper oil pan to clear the rotating assembly. Also got the other items needed to get the short block finished up.
Ordered the 4l60e from Jeg's Tuesday night after work and it arrives today. The torque conv will ship out next week. It's nice living next door to Ohio where both Jeg's and Summit reside.
@pantodd74 , I have been told that the new stroker rod's do not require small base circle cam now , Have you confirmed ? The reason I asked when I called to have a custom cam grind done by a old cam company They where surprised I requested small lobe circle , I told them My parts where new from 35 years ago Dragon slayer, Aries, Carrillo
19Eddy30 I called Motorsports Unlimited and asked those questions and they said Scat takes care of all that when they work the rods over. Stock SBC rods have the bolt through the rod and nuts on the caps. These rods are bolts through the cap with the rods threaded and ground down for clearance.
So today I got the piston and rods installed and all rotates without any clearance issues. Time to take it all apart, clean it really good again. Install the main studs and crank for a final torque. Then install the rings and set the pistons and rods back in for the final time. Then complete the short block. This week at work I will take the heads for a good cleaning and get them assembled. Hopefully have the long block finished before we head to Jamaica!
I agree, but who knows what rear cross-member is in this thing . . . my bet is that it isn't the original. As others mentioned, the best thing would be to remove the body - is about the only way to "fix the evils" of the suspension and frame setup. It doesn't cost a lot of money to do this - just time. Also, you can then actually work on the frame (think welding, cross-members, etc). That is dang hard to do lying underneath the car. At least get the frame/suspension done well - that is the foundation for everything else.
Since you have it all apart, think about a windage tray for better oil control on the lower end. I'm not sure what folks have for 2-bolt mains - I'm using a diamond scraper tray on my 383 in my 32 three winder.
This build is gonna be 2 stages. 1st stage is the drive train and enjoy it this year. Next winter will be the body off and frame/suspension work.
Short block is done. Only thing I'm waiting on to button it up is the correct oil pump pickup. Dude sold me the wrong one. Called and he sent me the right one. Leave for Jamaica Monday so I won't get to it until the following Tuesday.
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