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Projects Building a 57 Chevy Shop Truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by swade41, Nov 1, 2017.

  1. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 3,202

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Teak oil might be another option for you.
     
    '28phonebooth likes this.
  2. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,491

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    A 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits will penetrate better than boiled linseed oil alone. I would recommend using it on the top, bottom and edges to completely seal the wood. A paint roller works great for applying. Give everything a couple coats and it will last for years. I’ve done hundreds of semi trailers with wood floors using the 50/50 mix, without exception they have held up much better than untreated floors.
     
  3. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,905

    Dick Stevens
    Member

  4. papajohn
    Joined: Nov 2, 2006
    Posts: 901

    papajohn
    Member

    Use chainsaw oil on the wood and get a ss blackener kit from Caswell (available on amazon) for the strips.
    Then, maybe, we won't call you a chainer.
     
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  5. guthriesmith
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 10,801

    guthriesmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

    I used just linseed oil on this pine bed in my similar application and seems like it dried out quicker than I would have expected. Sounds like that 50/50 mix might be what I would try next. And, no one called me a chainer even with my fancy polished stainless strips. The whole kit came with my truck when I bought it so I just used what I had.

    IMG_1392.jpeg
     
  6. I got a notice that it shipped today, all 142 lbs of it, that'll be great to move into the garage.
    I wonder if there's a long term storage ritual I must follow to prevent warpage ???
     
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  7. I wouldn't take any chances on warpage. I might try strapping it to something like 2 x 4 steel tubing if it's going to be unused for a while. Better safe than sorry????
     
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  8. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,905

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Best to get the wood treated to prevent moisture content change, with varnish, or Waterlox or whatever to seal the wood.
     
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  9. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,651

    Budget36
    Member

    Just read through the link on the Waterlox, “can be used for exterior if not in direct sunlight”. Might not be the best choice for a PU bed?
     
  10. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,474

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    lol what’s next “can be used in water if kept dry”
     
    Stogy, X-cpe, porkshop and 4 others like this.
  11. Haul the boards into the house and stash them in an out of the way spot, like under a bed or something.
     
  12. That's where the spare blower setup is stored lol
     
    Moriarity, Stogy, X-cpe and 8 others like this.
  13. I got the wheel tubs welded in, one stepcloser to hotrodism

    20241229_145218.jpg 20241229_154335.jpg 20241229_154424.jpg

    And knocked all the puncture holes flat in both bed rails, also noticed this bed was also a spare tire bed, so some extra holes to weld up one day.

    20241218_151806.jpg 20241218_151831.jpg 20241218_153202.jpg
     
  14. Doing dirty work, got the majority of the undercoating scraped off

    20250118_170508.jpg 20250118_171432.jpg 20250118_171204.jpg 20250118_171444.jpg
    20250118_162422.jpg

    Wire wheeled the rear crossmember, probably pull the bed back off and stand it on end to wire wheel the rest of it. That's got to be easier than trying to do it where it is.

    20250118_161500.jpg
     
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  15. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 879

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    Any tips on removing that undercoating? I have a similar situation. Some of it has come off with a putty knife or chisel but other parts hasn’t.
     
  16. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,905

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Oscillating saw with a scraper blade
     
    Stogy likes this.
  17. I scraped with the puddy knife, then I wire wheeled it, which kind of just smeared it around, then I took a plumber's torch and heated it up then scraped it with the buddy knife again.
    It's like dancing with a fat lady, if she steps on your toes it's gonna hurt, to much heat and it just spreads like butter on hot toast, just enough heat and it'll scrape off.
    The next day I scraped it cold with the puddy knife again, what's left is very thin, I might try the wire wheel again. I have decided to sand and paint the part that's under the fender but might end up doing more of the bed side where the paint has flaked to bare metal.
    I've never really tried preserving flaky layered paint before so this is kinda new for me to deal with. My plan was to leave the paint alone and just spiff up the underside but I'm not sure I want to just leave bare metal where the paint is flaking off either.
     
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  18. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 879

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    Thanks for response. I tried the plumber’s torch and it helped but I think I may have been a little too aggressive and I have some oil canning now. Don’t want to dance with that lady again. Interesting thought on the oscillating tool but I don’t have one. I also tried some with a paint stripping disk on a grinder and it kind of smeared too. Haven’t tried a wire brush yet. Yours is looking good! Keep it up!
     
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  19. bobkatrods
    Joined: Sep 22, 2008
    Posts: 777

    bobkatrods
    Member
    from aledo tx

    Mine, almost finished, need to finish tailgate, Firebird clip, SBC/700r4 10 bolt with 336 gear IMG_2092.jpeg
     
  20. Looks nice
     

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