Jim, have you ever used a old Speed-o-Stat Dana aftermarket cruise control? I bought some on eBay and used them years ago on a 65 Coronet and a 70 Vista Cruiser. Still have some complete units but will prolly never use. I think a lot of those were bought as Christmas gifts and ended up on a shelf for years. Then someone puts one on Ebay and it goes high- say $150. The 3 people see that and put theirs on- one goes for $130, 2nd for $20, 3rd for $5. That's how I got some cheap.
I've used the Perfect Circle units, from the 1980s. The last one I tried to use didn't work...but they're also a pain to install, compared to the newer one (no vacuum brake switch, for example). Yellow box? Black box?
Anyways...got the front seat out, and the front floor mat, and swept away several pounds of rusty flakes and dirt. I'll pick up some 20 gauge steel sheets tomorrow, and see what I can do to fix this. Yes, the shop is a mess.
Wow! Things have changed somewhat around here since I last checked in. I like it. Don't like to de-rail the thread but didn't want to start a new one just for this. Carry on.
I've always thought Checkers were kinda cool. The Model A checker ca. WWII was super weird looking. I love how you find the 'cool' in the unloved. Probably can't top the "Wedge" though.
thanks! Got the floor done and the floor mat back in place, and the driver seat is back in, with new vinyl. I'm checking out more things in the drivetrain, etc to get ready for a trip next month to PA. Which is a really stupid thing to do. I pulled the rear end cover, and the gear oil looked pretty nasty. I had checked the level already before I drove it so I knew there was oil in it, at least. Cleaned up the mess, new gasket, new oil, all better for now. But while I was removing the cover the brake line to the pass side wheel started dripping, right next to the shock absorber. Turns out it had been worn away to paper thickness in one spot, and bending the line enough to get the cover off made it break through. What fun! so I'm putting in a new line now. Then I'll work on the transmission, pull the pan and see how really nasty the oil there looks, and decide if it might have another 6k miles life left in it.
I got that all back together, but still need to bleed the brakes. The transmission doesn't look too bad, just lots of dark stuff in the oil, but no chunks. The fluid looks pretty well used up, but not burnt. I drained the converter too, it has a plug that's easy to get to. I've also been tinkering with the windshield washer system. This is something I ignore on old cars that I drive around in fair weather (meaning all year round here). But going to PA in the winter makes me want to get the washer working, because I know what happens when that melted snow mist gets on the glass and you can't see anything, and the wipers just smear it around. This type pump was used on Fords, Mopars, and Internationals, as well as Checkers. One of the plastic tubes broke off. I was able to free up the gears, and the motor works when connected to power. I decided to just get a repop, they're not real expensive, and it might work. Of course some of the mopar guys get serious about restoring them, but parts seem to be hard to find. I love tinkering with stuff like this, and learning how it works, and what cars used them, etc.
I've only done it a few times, it definitely wasn't pleasant. Took the car for another little drive today, it worked fine...except the stereo quit working. Quality new electronics, I suppose. but it did only cost $35, so I shouldn't set my expectations too high. A few more bisbee pictures, at Jay's place again. Note the bike in the window...he does like to race them on the salt.... and his 62 Vette.
It's looking good Jim! I think you should hire a "Wax on, wax off" kid to take it to the next level! Any pics of new front seat upholstery?
Not yet, I keep forgetting to take pics, and we're not done yet with everything. Tinkering with the defrost duct right now, it's going to be fun to fix it. The fragile old plastic duct part used to have cardboard on top that held all the attaching hardware, and had 8 holes for air to blow through. It mounts just below the windshield, under the dash. But I did find 3 pennies in it.
It's probably not a budget friendly solution, but 3D shop in your town...? https://www.hubs.com/3d-printing/arizona/sierra-vista/
Or for a DIY, mold casting stuff. https://www.smooth-on.com/products/ For an even cheaper possibility, you could tuck it into a plastic bag, make a box and spray Great Stuff foam to make a one-off, then 'glass up a replacement.
I was planning on just not breaking the plastic part, and adding a new top piece made from...something...like foam posterboard? or similar.
Just tryin' to help, Jim! Still rockin' the DIY alt. mount, but thinking it's time I replace the WP and get the nice low alt mount. It's a toss up between that and getting the rear panhard bar redone, which requires finding a welding pro and some fab work. Always something!
yeah, always something! This Checker is a pretty easy project, so far.... Got the defroster duct repaired, and installed. This corrugated plastic sign was at the end of the 2017 LeMons Rally that we did in the Corvair. Finally found a good use for it! 3M VHB tape holds the parts together very well, since it's light weight plastic.
Went for a drive today, to Tucson, about 150 miles round trip. Car worked well, no fuel starvation this time. Visited my brother...he asked if I needed to change the stocking on the radiator hose? So I checked it tonight. Here's what I pulled out. I had to use a magnet to get the crap out of the stocking, as it was so full that I could not pull the stocking through the 1.5" radiator hose hole!
I really like the Dana 44 rear end in something like this. A 3rd party sourced rear axle in a passenger car gives a vehicle a real strong 50s to early 60s look that's just kinda missing when you've got one of the in-house manufactured axles.
Hey @squirrel Is it possible, to blow some high or semi high pressure air with water through the block, with the hoses off, to possibly help to free up some more unknown crud and rust and crap ? Just a thought to ponder. It makes me smile to see that you are giving this cool checker, the attention it needs, as stated, I do hope that you will keep this amazing machine, especially after you swap engines. It's a very stout, comfortable car, that thinks its a tank and pick up truck ! Thanks from Dennis. "Perfection in the name of safety and being confident, while out on the road, cannot be rushed"
I've flushed it a few times, none of this stuff came out at that time. I don't know how to get in there with high pressure without pulling the head and freeze plugs. Which I'm too lazy to do.
Something I've done in the past is to take the inner cable from a speedo drive and chuck into a cordless drill. Stick it into what you are trying to clean out and let it router root in there. It's too darn cold up here to be playing in the yard with water, your stocking seems to be working, so this is probably a 'do it later' thing.
Back in the "olde daze" there was a contraption you hooked to heater hoses on a car with compressed air and water to blow debris out the larger rad hoses. You had to regulate the air pressure down. LOL .. You could blow holes in rusted freeze plugs
Just a thought, but on my diesel truck, I run a water filter such as the one pictured. It does a good job of catching casting sand and rust from the block. The filters are not that expensive and easy to change and it can bypass to protect the engine if the filter gets clogged. I'm not sure how you'd fit it to the Checker, but as resourceful as you are it was worth mentioning.