It’s been 15 years since I restored anything and back then I used Kreem fuel tank coating. I’ve been happy with it but just wondering if anything superior has come out in the last decade.
Using a sealer inside a fuel tank is usually a last ditch effort but sometimes it is necessary. I think tank sealers get a bad rap because of poor preparation. Similar to automotive paint the prep is the most important step. I normally have the tank chemically stripped to bare metal, I have only media blasted tanks that can be split apart and rewelded together after blasting so that all traces of media are removed. Following the manufacturer instructions is paramount, skipping a step will just end up in failure. When a tank has wet sealer inside it is very important to rotate the tank in every direction continuously, I have made an adapter for my engine stand to make this step easier. I use KBS sealer exclusively, and after sealing multiple tanks I have never experienced a failure.
We did the hirsch stuff on a tank and it lasted for years. Red kote lost adhesion like a fruit roll up. Never again. If a new tank is available. Try to save up and go with that. See if you can have the tank welded up.
heh..the thing about the "last ditch" gas tanks, is that it's impossible to prepare them properly. If you could get them clean enough for the sealer to stick, you wouldn't need the sealer in the first place.
Get a new tank, if that’s not possible take it apart and repair or have a tank built, just don’t tell them it’s a fuel tank tell ‘em it’s for hydraulic oil, been there done that. Otherwise it’s like buying lotto tickets
Built several tanks over the years along with building a new bottom for a '33 tank all out of plain cold rolled steel. Never had a problem, even with modern corn gas. Always tried to keep them full when parked along with some SeaFoam. And a whole can when stored for winter.
Bill Hirsch used to offer 2 types of "aircraft fuel tank sealers". Aka: "Slushing Compound". Supposedly genuine aircraft/FAA-santioned quality. One for non-alky, other for. Haven't seen it in their ads lately, also haven't called them as to why, since I don't actually need it at this very moment. Have seen a few articles on applying it, but never a follow-up on its' effectiveness over time & compatibility w/todays' panther-piss-sold-as-fuel. Anyone that's used it, willing to report their experiences? Does seem somewhat reasonable that aircraft-tank sealers would be better than various paints. ??? Marcus...
thanks, the tank doesn't have any holes and is in good shape, just been sitting for years and needs a good cleaning
We use Caswell on our glass tanks after bonding halves together. https://caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html
then give it a good cleaning, no need for a sealer. Put a filter in the line from the tank to the pump, replace it after driving a little while, and keep a spare filter with you just in case. works for me
Will a radiator shop tank it for you, that's if there is still one around that does recores. Depending how much crud is inside,trying to get it clean yourself maybe a waste of time.
Cleaning kind of depends on what's in it. Shaking it with a gallon or two of fresh gas, do this a few times, draining the the gas through a paint strainer between uses, can get most of the loose stuff out. If it has varnish in it, then might need to soak with some lacquer thinner?
Red-Kote worked for me. I had a little reddish color in the fuel for a short period, if I remember correctly, but no ill effects....good after 12 years. It is in a 1924 Federal Knight gas tank, which I had a radiator shop clean out before they applied the stuff.
My old Suburban left me stranded years ago about 150 miles from home in the mountains, with no cell service due to a gas tank that had been sealed internally by some previous owner! I was cruising along when it suddenly ran out of gas and coughed to a stop. Two lane highway with almost no shoulder, and people coming up behind me honking and angry that I stopped. I opened the hood and my semitransparent fuel filter was empty. Had 3/4 tank of gas, so knew that wasn't the problem. I got in and cranked the engine over a bit and it eventually fired up! Looked at the fuel filter and gas seemed slow to fill, but it allowed me to go 15-20 mph uphill. Once I crested the mountains it did 60 mph with no problem. But flats or even slight uphills it crapped out at anything over 15 mph. It took me another 8 hrs. to limp home. I eventually pulled the pickup/sending unit and discovered it wrapped with a huge sheet of tank sealer almost 12" square! I removed it, and siphoned the gas out, and found more smaller pieces floating around. I did my best to clean up the tank, and ended up adding a 2nd fuel filter back near the tank and before the fuel pump. It's been good since, but I'll never trust tank sealer myseelf.
^^^ The reason I asked. I've heard the moisture-cured urethanes can easily sheet-off, plugging the fuel pickup. I'm guessing aircraft "slushing stuff" doesn't do this, as last I heard, clouds were a little short on firmness when landing to fix on. & the 1000+ vicious-chemicals called "gas" can/will dissolve/damage/corrode a lot of things.(BTW, try evaporating a good-sized test-tube of "gas" sometime - noting how much evaporates at what temperature, & then what is left over. Just note that *all* of that goes thru the mill & cat if you use one. & then you breathe that. Oh, I wouldn't touch the left-over tar-lookin' crap. Got to follow that experiment years ago, things haven't gotten better. Thing is, it doesn't *have* to be. I'm not getting into it any further, other than to say I've had more gas tanks rot out in the last 10-15 years than I've ever seen before, carbs too. & the smell from the old decomposing gas is beyond nauseating, like burning the nose & eyes bad.). Aircraft fuel is better than surface-devices fuel, harder to get, more expensive, & designed for a different use(altitude) than the PP we get, but still... FAA is seriously strict on what/how/when/why (any)thing aircraft-related gets done/used. & unless things changed, they now "get to enjoy" alky-laced fuels. Thus the different compounds for tank lining. Although the slush is for stopping weeping, pinholes et-al, from vibration(s), corrosion, etc, no reason it can't take the place of terne-coated steel. Do they even use that anymore if the tank isn't plastic? IDK, maybe it's all changed magically for the better, & nobody told me 'cause I have old junk. Marcus...
If you choose to use a sealer read this and understand what he is saying, following directions and preparation is the key. Rinse and dry times are VERY important. Ignore them and you will have the pealing sheets like mentioned above. KBS is good stuff- but only as good as your execution in following instructions
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