OUTLAW the 110v Welder... and other welding STUFF

Hey...I can't blame the equipment on those HORRIBLE welds- that is the operator of said equipment.

and simply stated-as far as 110 volt welders on ch***is work is concerned...

Good enough for Ferrari, good enough for Me.

 

Some 110s may be better than others, I agree.

Every one I've had handed to me has been ****...



JOE

 

I keep hearing negative things about these small welders, but I have a lincoln 135 and miged some 1/4 plate together on the 14 ga setting (highest with mig wire), then took it to work and let my techs beat it with a sledge and it wouldnt break, and I am talking big guys with a heavy sledge...just a 3 inch p***....but I use the hotter flux core on frames....am I missing something here?

 

I think the proper test is to pull not beat. Flux core??

 

Mainly what I see is that in recent years welders, which used to be an expensive tool, have become readily available toys... and a guy can walk out of a hardware store with a box under his arm thinking he's a builder because he has a welder...

Like I said... some machines might be better than others.



JOE

 

damn dude dont you have a car that needs work or something??
way too much time on here if others work scares you stay home and watch springer all day stay off the streets.

 

Are the 120V ratings all ********? They might be. I didn't trust them, and bought a 220V Miller, I can damn near burn through my frame, and it's cherry red 3" each side of the weld...so I know I have penetration....

A scientific test is in order, make a p*** with a 120V and a 220V, and have the **** stress tested or x-rayed.

 

hotter flux core? thought that you would rather use mig on thicker because it leaves a cleaner looking weld. with this "hotter flux cor" is it more like stick/arc welding?

 

you, uh, have been wound tight lately.......huh?

 

Yeah, as far as the frame-flex guy goes, I think it has less to do with his welding skill and more do to with his poor frame design! If he was any worse of a welder, it probably woulda broke already.

 

Your 6th post and you're gonna talk ****... damn

But really he's right, most of these guys watch American Chopper or American Hot Rod and think they can build them a rat rod with a $100 welder. Not so.... it should be about quality, and there are a lot out there that aren't. And they're unsafe, not because they're fast, but because the build quality ****s donkey balls....

 

flux core burns hotter, but ya, looks terrible...the chart on the welder says 14 ga and under for mig and flux up to and including 1/4. It will burn thru a frame on flux if your not careful..but then again thats only like 1/8 steel.

 

Okay... fine by me you guys.

Let's let everybody build **** with other **** when they don't know ****...
...and cry when it happens.

See ya at the funeral... maybe.




JOE

 

Statistically speaking, more people die in SUV's than in hot rods.

It's not the car that kills you, it's the cell phone, stereo, and rear-view mirror used as a grooming aid.

 

OK so when do we have a cl*** on how to take pictures in focus as well?

Seriously, after reading through all of this thread there is a definite difference of opinion on the type of welder. But from what I see you all agree that the operator of the machine is the primary issue here.

A good tool is a good tool. It's a matter of if someone has taken the time/effort to learn proper use. Many good welders are self taught. Those I have met that fall into this category took the time and effort to educate themselves and to test the quality of their work. I personally don't do a large volume of welding. But I now feel comfortable welding up major components on a frame. It took me 3 years of doing odds and ends, different test pieces and then cutting them on the bandsaw to check penetration before I became comfortable.

Working in the utility (gas) industry I certainly understand the need for certification. I think that if we want to break the legs of this hobby then having the government in to certify us is the first step to oblivion. I think I'll p*** on that thank you.

BTW the ****py work is obvious even in that photo, I just couldn't resist.

 

PeteJoe and 53 SledSleeve have said it best about welding. I would like to add my two cents.
1. Take some welding cl***es and learn the skills of welding, you can take the cl***es as far as you want even all the way to being certified.
2. Buy a good welder like the small Lincoln 110, it'll cost a little more but it can do the job.
3. Buy a 110/220 welder this way you can hook up to either voltage. Have a 220 line put in your garage or make sure your dryer line is set up right. The 220 will cost you less to run than the 110.

I have an L-Tech 110/220 unit made in Sweden and it can do it all.

Stay Cool

Cruiser 49

 

I agree with Junkard Dogs stance on the design of the frame. That can be just as dangerous as a piss poor weld. Say you had a bonafide cert welder weld up a ****ty designed frame. Those welds could be golden, but if the frame flexes every time you hit a bump in the road, or pull hard off the line, those welds aren't going to make a **** bit of difference.

I'm also not a fan of Home Depot selling welding machines. This goes also with the statement that anyone who watches TV then goes to HD and comes out with a welding machine and a few rolls of wire is now a hot rod or bike builder. Its really scary. Its nice that they sell the stuff, I've made a few trips to the 24 hour Home Depot to pick up more wire, but the people selling anything there are about as uneducated as they come.

At least at a welding supply house, they can give you a tip or two on what to do.

 

I almost forgot...and this is almost as important as good welds. NO MORE ******* BIG BROTHER VEHICLE LAWS!!!!!! I can't stress this enough. The MAN already has his greedy ****ing fingers in too much of what we do, the last thing we need is for more wanna be super troopers dictating to us what is safe or what should be allowed. Pretty soon we'll all be forced to be driving low emission, hybrid, corn cob farm fueled, E85, no sound making, digital navigation we can find you anywhere equipped, super safe mobiles. I shiver at the thought. I could go on for hours about how the government could **** up our hobby. Probably not even in your wildest dreams could you imagine the **** they could come up with to tax the hell out of us right out of existence.

Besides, these guys building **** cars, **** frames, **** welds......they'll thin themselves out the Darwin way! There will be no need for any agency to "help" out!

 

Part of this is about design and engineering ability.
I sort of touched on that in my first post.

Anyone can squeeze a trigger and stick metal together, that's part of the problem.

If you've ever taken the ASVAB test... there's a section on physics and geometry. Simple stuff like directional changes in gearing and center of gravity of trucks on hillsides... stuff like that.

Maybe a guy should have to p*** that at The Home Depot before they sell him a welder...

I really don't have an answer. I was puking when I saw that frame and that it's so far after the fact.

Maybe if we just look over each other's shoulder, or something... I don't know.

JOE

 

I use my lincoln 135 for boxing my frames and other frame work. Just go slow, watch the metals "melt" together evenly and everything will be fine. I chamfer the boxing plates real well also, I grind the boxing plates down smooth, but I do not grind any other welds on the frame down. I take pride in the way my frames look and I enjoy doing my own work.

 

Will do. You too.



JOE

 

Definitely know what your doing (fabricating and welding-wise), if your going to drive your hot rod dream on the street safely. But please don't encourage any regulation. They are working toward that already for autobody and paint supplies.

 

Just a quick reminder most info needed for proper welding procedures is on line . Check out www.i-car.com they have a cd for welding thats available for about $60.00 , there's a pdf file for free , and they do welding certification at local community colleges that are involved with their programs . Unfortunately the welding certification test is pricey. I-CAR is the standard for the collision repair industry . Take some time and brouse the site. Theres alot of great info there.
The talk of preheating the metal before welding is applicable to some metals but on some alloys shouldn't be done. Know what the correct process is for the metal your welding ! Most of the stuff being welded on rods and older iron is mild steel but if your thinking about welding on your late model be carefull as there are quite a few special alloys used in todays autos, including some alloys the are only to be welded once.
Larry

 

Personally I won't weld on any frame or suspension pieces at all. It only costs me $60 an hour to have a professional bring the truck with all the equiptment and do the welding as long as I have it all jigged and ground down. Most jobs are done in less than an hour and I have a reciept and a guarantee that is in writing. I can't take any chances for that price. Gumpa

 

the only welds that get ground down are bad looking ones or for clearance issues, I was taught not to grind the weld and be proud of it and if you find one that been ground off to redo it because it was likely and ugly mostly ineffective embar***ing one anyways except if your dealing with a clearance issue as stated above

I forgot to say I have never had a mig or any wire feed welder so I can't speak through experience regarding them, I do have a 220 buzz box stick welder though and would use it for anything I need to build or repair, yes I do have a welding ticket but its about 20 years old, at the time it was short of a pressure weld certification not sure what it would be now though

 

Lotta good points here but most important we don't need the govt screwing with our hobby they'd **** up a free lunch

 

Buddy of mine used flux core 110 welder to finish some welds on a drag Willys. He recently had an experience that proved the welder and his welding worked. Nothing broke only the parts of the cage bending.

At the college I attended, there is and was a welding test that included v'ing a two peices of thick steel stock and making several p***es. Only to go thru a bend test to make sure ther were no breaks or cracksn the welds. If there was you had 2 choices : fail the cl*** or redo and start over until you got it right.

 

Numerous good points here in this post. My metallurgical observations:
1. Know what the metals are you are welding
2. Clean and bevel
3. Penetration of the weld is very important!
4. Pretty welds are not necessarily good welds
5. Ugly welds are not necessarily bad welds
6. Operator has more effect than equipment

Now some Engineering observations:
1. Design with good sense
2. Consider the "load path"
3. Reinforcement and boxing are good things
4. Understand the effects of what you are doing

I agree that there are some scary builds out there, I do not understand the whole "**** rods" mentality. Build it to look as rough as possible? Why not strive for excellence? Or is the **** rod look the way you cover up your lack of preparation, poor equipment and skill?

I agree the practical limit for most 110 MIG is 0.125 inch, and even that depends on the welder. For thicker stuff and low cost it is hard to beat a stick welder!