Projects 1934 Ford Pickup in England

I had a ticking noise I wanted to track down, efforts to deduce if it is road speed or engine speed related have proved inconclusive.
But I do know it gets more frequent the faster you go.
It sounds like a spinning thing coming into contact with a tin-plate.
So I was thinking sump.
I wanted to drop the sump anyway, as there is no oil-filter, and crud accumulates in the bottom.
It came off alright, but is a big heavy thing, as on this model it is half of the bell-housing, and is tough enough to take the starter motor.
Wasn't disappointed when I came looking for groo.
There is a metal gauze on the oil pump, that was pretty grotty too, and I poked a hole in it, trying to clean it.
Thankfully parts supply is good, and a new one was procured.

But I couldn't find any witness marks for the noise.
The only marks I found were on the back of the starter ring-gear, and I think that is just from starter engagement.
Sometimes I have a mental block, about sending things out for blasting, this was one of those times. Tried a heat gun, got bored. Fired up the spinning tools.

After a good while and a lot of mess I was ready for paint with a very improvised setup.

Used enamel paint, and this was autumn time, so baked it under the heatlamp.

I used some sump snap-up to hold the sump in place, to avoid the gaskets and sealer becoming dislodged.
A very clever idea from Felpro.

I couldn't source any in time, but yet again the 3D printer came to the rescue.
I printed them out of PETG to give a little bit of flexibility, and printed the 5/16UNC thread.
After running a die down the thread, they worked perfectly.
So I've got a nicely painted and clean sump, but still got the noise......
Thanks for looking

 

Looking up the M10 thread dimensions, it looks like that it might leave as little as .007" wall in the adapter piece. Still, that is a cool knob and worth a try. I even have an I drill bit for the 5/16 unf hole!

 

I know I can't work to that kind of tolerance
It is a M10 x 1.25 fine pitch, so that may help.
But it seems to work, and I've not pulled it off yet. There is always epoxy

 

Thanks for your very detailed posts, great to see how others do it & think about it.

 

Your post #100 shows it working.

 

I was talking to another Hamber and he said why not open up the tapped hole in the knob and re-tap it. Using a McMaster Carr 94110A150 5/16 x 7/16 insert would only enlarge the knob hole by .044". Does the insert in the knob have enough meat for that?

EDIT: Part number is 90259A141

 

That is a much more elegant solution.
I took this picture for you, the threaded portion of the knob appears to be a nylon insert, with a decent amount of meat on it.

Hope it helps

 

I always hated the exhaust, it had been bodged through the chassis, was covered in loose rust, and didn't have any joints in it.
The manifolds came off without too much drama.
The sawzall got the rest of the system out of my way quickly.
The replacement manifolds I picked up cheap, on my recent Swedish trip seem to clear the steering box, so I'll start building a new system around those.
The chrome is a bit blingy for my tastes, so they will probably get ceramic coated eventually.

The first few sections, and the silencers turned up, as the car was up in the air, seemed rude not to fit them.
Screw jacks, originally for decking/static caravans were invaluable for holding the sections in place when working solo.
I started with the most difficult side, as I had to work around the pedals and brake master cylinder.
Now I can see what sections I need to join in the very roughly mounted silencers.

Looking from the front of the car backwards.
Very happy with the routing and clearances so far.
Shame the previous exhaust ran through the crossmembers, which have been crudely gas-axed to suit - that is on the to-do list.

One side, sliced and diced so it fits nicely.
Looks simple, but anyone who has tried this, knows it needs to come off and go on many times for small adjustments to fit.
Just a simple exit ahead of the rear axle - pointing down.

There was one minor mod, after that picture.
I've added a boss for an O2 sensor. The sensor will be a temporary fit, to allow me to see the air-fuel ratio during any tuning/shakedown runs.
Running a Flathead lean is a disaster waiting to happen.
The thread is the same as a spark plug, so I used a chaser, to keep some of the heat away from the threads whilst welding.
The welds are ground back, as pin-holes in this area are bad.
For mounts, this rear one, welded to a running board bracket, with a rubber bobbin isolator, does 95% of the location
I've also added a mount to the front of the silencer, in a belt'n'braces style.
This is what I came up with, using bolts into existing holes in the chassis.

Together they look like this, the bobbin in shear isn't ideal, but it really does very little.
But having the silencer fixed at two points, helped me get a consistant downpipe fit.

Talking of downpipes, they got fully welded and cleaned up. Just MiG with stainless wire, I know people will harp on about TiG with purged pipes full of argon, but you gotta use what you've got sometimes.

Importantly - how does it sound ?
I have no clue, the engine is in pieces - which is definitely a story for a different day......
Thanks for looking.