Hi everyone ! New here. Needing some help on a build I'm working on. I'm building a 1953 f100 panel truck. I'm looking for some help with some double acting hinges for the front hood. The reason I'm saying this is the his needs to lift about a 1/2" then slid forward 6" then tilt. This is a full tilt with the fenders and hood all one piece
I deleted that other post because it wasn't relevant. It's been over 40 years but when my buddy did this one He made the front hinge brackets to work as slides. where he slid the nose forward a few inches before he tilted it. I don't know how he did it or what he used though.
If you slice the fender from the rear corner of the hood, straight down to the running board, you don't have to do the ugly diagonal cut through the fender and you dont have the make it slide before tilting, FYI. Here's an example of what I mean...
There was a lot of different approaches to it back in the 70's. None worked very well. Believe it or not I actually was quite involved in the F-100 thing. I still have 2. Your not actually doing a tilt Hood, you're trying to tilt the complete front Sheetmetal. The front Bumper is a large obstacle to deal with. You can eliminate it, helps some. Lower valance and front crossmember is the next issue. Front fenders tucking under the Cab corner at the running board needs some surgery to make the lift go better. You can't (I couldn't) fully eliminate fender corner to cab (make that Paint) contact at some point. Once you get it open and want to do any work on the motor you have to remember to duck both going in and coming out. At some point you're going to use some Off-Color language. At the time both Street Rodder and Trucking magazines ran many how to articles. None were very helpful in total success but got you in over your head. My beliefs have always been what brought on all that Tilt stuff was the stock hood hinges were just a bitch to get adjusted right because most didn't know how to do them correctly. That started with guys not knowing the Correct way to open the hood to begin with. Personally, I like just a forward opening Hood like on my current 53 Pickup. This is not one of those Kits that also are a P.I.T.A. and leave you at the mercy of the Wind when it's in the Open position. The Hood on my 53 Panel opens the same direction and hinges the same, no gas ram assist. I know I wasn't much help, but I've been involved in about every direction of F-100 stuff there is out there and I have yet to be involved in a Good way to do it. Best of luck to ya.
Look closely at this photo. Common practice with the fender modification. Looks like maybe some Teflon on the contact edge of fender to cowl. Now look just forward of the heater vent louvers. That's a strike point in the paint from closing the nose down. It just seems it can't be avoided.
Yep, that is a strike point because the person that made this cut, curved the cut or had it too close the the body. Not my truck, or photo... I was just using this photo as a reference. You have to make the cut laser straight and in the right spot and it will clear the cowl no problem. That is also dependent on hinge type and placement. I'm not at that point on my truck, but I've played around with 2 different tilt front ends on my '56. It had a welded 1-piece tilt front end, but the fender was sliced at an angle. I also have a fiberglass 1-piece front end that doesn't curve to fit the cowl sides at the backs of the fenders. If it was cut a little better it'd tilt with no touching, but I've decided I don't want the fiberglass, so I'll be swapping my cut metal front fenders for another pair of uncut fenders, and doing this straight down cut from hood corner to running board. Here's mine with the steel front end that came on it when I bought the truck. I've chassis swapped it so the old hinges are gone, but I made temporary test hinges to see how it all worked out. I'll be revising the hinge set up, and removing the original core support and changing that inner structure for some more intercooler clearance. I have a ratchet strap holding the front end from tilting further, but it tilts 90-degrees and can be lifted and lowered with 1 hand.
Not a great photo, but you can see the lime green tape on the front fender. The 'inside' of this tape is the cut line that clears the cowl through the range of motion.
I have seen so many versions of this over my years that I keep thinking someone will make a Quality finished version of it that works well overall. Here's hoping you're the first to pull it off.
The late 80s FWD Buicks had a hood that opens like a regular hood then you flip it forward over the grill and lights.
^^^ & iirc, the hood pulled forward ~ 6", then lifted up. Had little ramps to slide/roll on. & the hood had to go back down the same way, no just slamming/dropping it in the final-closed position. Hey PnB; "Off-Color" language??? Then there must be "On-Color" language. . That stuff must be really good! . Marcus...
I have a 1948 Austin that I plan on making a steel tilt nose for. It will need to slide forward about 5-6" before it tilts. I am not going to cut the fenders and would keep the stock opening hood before I would cut the fenders. I searched The HAMB and found this old post on how this guy did it. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...he-way-i-did-it-hope-it-helps-someone.928936/
Yes, that language is used when you've been working on the motor and stand back up and DON'T bang your head on the fender hanging in the air behind you and the front Sheetmetal opens and closes as you dreamed it would before you started the project.
I haven't experienced that, but I think I still have a dent in the top of my head from the striker on the stock hood of my old '56 F-100 that I sold 15 years ago! I'd get so fed up with that hood and the hinges that I'd just take the hood off to work on the engine.
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