Hi, Below is a picture of the Haliband QC 101 I have. I hoping some one on HAMB of or knows someone that can help. I need the number of the bearing for the lower shaft, gear side. Other Haliband QC 101 take 6206, but the one I have the hole for the bearing is to big for that bearing number. It may also take a sleeve for the bearing?? I was told that the hole on the back side is for what is a kick out for the gear?? You can e-mail at mmrford@verizon.net Thank you, Mike
I can't be much help but show a exploded view of the rear axle. And suggest buying a manual from someone like Speedway Motors,,,about 15 bucks. HRP
That's an old sprint car center section, they are different. The window in the side is for in and out controls. You can make it work, but keep in mind you are buying replacement parts (bearings etc.) for a sprint center section. Hope that helps.
Ya, the hole in the side is for an in and out box. A solid one-piece shaft can go all the way through I'm pretty sure and you can blank the hole. As far as bearings, head out to a local bearing warehouse with you case and shaft and they can help.
That lower area can wallow out and leave the aluminum a little oversize for the bearing, so if it doesn't match the book it may have been bored to take a replacement bearing with larger ID to fix a problem.
That case appears to be a Midget race car part with the rear shift provision, this does not use a thru case jackshaft like one pictured in the above exploded V8 view. Post a couple better complete view pictures to see what you have.
Did you call Halibrand ? I would guess they havr racers calling them all the time with tech questions. Or call Rosy's Raceland , he's been a Halibrand dealer for years. sends sprint car all over the world. Ask for Randy and tell him Epp gave you the number 712-472-2990.
Thank you Here is a picture of the the back side. the lower hole size is about 65.87 which I think would take 66 mm bearing but can not find one that size, the bore is 3 inches deep. Mike
Kiwi quick changes in NZ makes a reproduction of that style of 101 case. He is on here sometimes. I have an original 101, but it is the normal style without the in/out I can pop the rear cover and gears and see if I can get a bearing number or size But try Kiwi QC first )
Halfdone, I got the lower shaft from Kiwi QC. but my housing is not the same as yours or kiwi's. My is the 101 H used in the midges race cars with a kick out of gears. It has a odd size hole for a bearing. I'm going to have a sleeve made to fit the right bearing. thank you for offering to pull you back cover and checking for. Mike
65.87mm Isn't that 2.59", that sounds like a standard 2.5" bearing with 0.09 clearance to the housing. Remember the bearing presses on the shaft, slips into the housing. You can use some lock-tight on outside of bearing if you are worring about the external race slipping in the QC housing.
I've never seen a Halibrand or any other quick change with bearing 'clearance' in the case. They are supposed to a have a .002" shrink fit in the case. Sounds like a bearing spun in the case at some time. Your sleeve idea is good, but be sure that that neither the beaing or sleeve can rotate. Do not press anything 'cold'. A lock bolt or other means of retention on the sleeve might be a good idea.
Just came in from checking my badly damaged "Culver City" V-8 QC. No in-and-out feature. Bearing is 2.440" OD, 1.1855" ID and 0.630" width. Housing bore is 2.4388" with a 0.630 depth. No #s on the actual bearing. Bruce, maybe you can help us out here a little: do you warm the aluminum housing and chill the bearing to make the two go together nicely? Hope some of this is valid info.
Your pinion hole is usually large enough to accept the pinion shaft bearing assembly, this consists of a double taper roller bearing and double race. The OD of the race is the ID of the machined case hole + a couple .001 for press fit. The lower jack shaft hole is larger than a V8 halibrand because it is a shifter case. The jack shaft is 2 pcs that are connected by a splined slider coupler. Coupled together engages the dive line, (in gear) uncoupled is neutral (out of gear). The front half of the shaft is supported at the front flange bearing and the rear half is supported by a bearing in the QC extenion side about 2/3's thru. The QC rear lower extension shaft is then installed with the sliding coupler. The extension shaft is supported by its pilot shaft that inserts into the counter bore of front extension and the rear of the shaft by another bearing at the end of the case. Essentially there are three bearings in the lower drive assembly. They are larger than the V8 style halibrand bearing because the rear bore hole must be larger to accomodate the larger diameter of the sliding coupler. In your case there is also a retainer plate to keep the lower rear shaft in place when the shifter is engaged. I'm assuming that you want to eliminate the shifter rear portion so your first task is to find a jackshaft. You will have to measure the approximate length of your jack shaft as that might not be a standard length either. Both Speedway Motors, Winters and DMI sell parts for midget Qc's so there are sources for a jackshaft. This means that if you find a jackshaft, your second task will be finding bearings with the correct OD and you will also have to insure that they have the correct ID for the jack shaft races.
Dick Spadara, I got a lower shaft from Kiwi QC. it is the right size and will work. The front side is 6306 bearing, and it works. But I think I'm going to have a sleeve made for the bearing size 55 mm, which will, work on the gear side. Thank you for telling me about jack shaft. Mike
Just to add to what Dick said; Old cases generally had Ball Bearings on the pinion. These have a slightly smaller O.D. than the Double Cup Tapered Roller Bearing. The case or bearing cup can be modified to accept the tapered roller set-up, but you CANNOT just slip it in.
Mike,, I have a case like the one you pictured,, it is out in the shop in my QC pile. I will look at it in the morning and PM you some info. Earl
Yes, the pinion assembly is a 'Shrink Fit'. Here is the procedure: Assemble the pinion and bearings. If using the Timken (double cup tappered roller) do not set the pinion preload at this time. Just tighten to remove the endplay, a little more than finger tight. Ball bearing assemblies can be tightened and locked. Put the pinion assembly in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. Heat the case to 300-350 degrees in an oven or grill. Set the case on its nose and block it or gently clamp it in a vise. Coat the O.D. of the nose bearing with anti-sieze and put it in the case. Now paint the O.D. of the pinion bearing(s) with anti-sieze and drop the assembly into the case. After the case returns to room temperature tighten the pinion nut until 60 in/lbs rotating torque is achieved, then lock it there. Note: Ball bearing pinions do not have preload. Presumably this is for less friction.
Mike, I know this is an old thread but hoping you can help. I'm in the same situation. My QC looks exactly the same as the one you posted. What did you end up doing? A Sleeve? Find a bearing that works?
Reddy (Mike ) was here yesterday. If you hover over his name, it will say "start a conversation". You can message him directly and he will likely get back with you. Or, you can do the @Reddy trick, but I don't really know what that does. Welcome to the HAMB, by the way. -Abone.
The Jalopy Journal
