I run a filter on the heater core circuit of all my iron block engines. Lots of crap comes out. I change them every year or so. It's kind of hard to find filters that can flow the needed volume. There was a Fram I used to like but it's hard to find now. On most filters the outlet is restricted to a pinhole. But I've take apart and looked at enough filters that I have no qualms about taking the punch on the air hammer and opening up the pinhole (I don't use a drill as that would create shavings)
some hydraulic systems have a canister with a fine screen for a filter . Also ag sprayers use a canister with a fine screen .
The only thing I worry about with the crap in the cooling system, is plugging up the radiator core and heater core. The heater hose filter sounds useful to prevent problems there. The radiator...the sock does ok, and on other cars it's taken a little while to get most of the crap out of the system, then I can remove the sock and just let things happen as they may. But after buying a new radiator that can't be rodded out (welded aluminum), I don't want it to plug up right away. I've made that mistake. Interesting to see what others have done about this.
The filter I posted uses a Wix water separator filter. I use it in my 6.0 diesel. and most have a bypass in case they plug. Most of the diesel performance sites sell them.
Just to show you how easily amused I am..... I put a new vacuum modulator in the car today, it still shifts too early, but it's a little bit better. I might make a slightly longer pin for it, I don't know. I will also reread the owners manual about how it shifts, and see if I can get the hang of manual shifting. It's a Dual Range transmission, and doesn't really give you a way to shift 1-2 then 2-3. The kickdown makes it shift a little later, but the highest speed I can get it to go into 3rd is about 45 mph, and that's not reliable, sometimes it shifts into 3rd at 35 with the pedal down all the way. It's a Borg Warner Model 11, with electric kickdown, and no throttle lever at the transmission.
Because the radiator doesn't see flow until the engine warms up the heater core location should catch almost everything. Unless you're running water it should take decades for a radiator to plug up even without a filter.
That kind of makes sense, but then why did I catch half a pound of crap in the radiator hose, on it's way to the radiator? I've had a similar radiator clogging experience on another vehicle with an old used rusty engine, and a new aluminum radiator, it plugged it up pretty quickly. That was before I found the stocking trick.
You are driving in D1 aren't you? D2 should shift quicker and smoother to avoid slipping and sliding. It is different than what most are used to. Normally we go 1, 2, D, and the optional OD if it has them. D1 and D2 are different and most driving is done in D1.
Yeah, I put it in D1, it shifts out of 1st almost immediately, then into 3rd around 20-25 mph if I don't have my foot down all the way. In D2 it never sees 1st. I'm planning to make a slightly longer modulator pin and see if it changes things. I also put a tach in it yesterday, so I can more safely play with the L position. I think it's supposed to shift at high RPM from 1 into 2 if you leave it in L, then you can manually shift up at the appropriate time to get it into 3. But I'd rather have it shift automatically, when it should, based on throttle position
The kickdown is activated by vacuum if I'm remembering correctly. Somethings you might try to see what is going on. First is to T the vacuum line to the modulator and put a gauge on it that you can monitor. I have a feeling that you are loosing vacuum and that is why it is shifting too soon. If you find the vacuum to be low, try hooking a vacuum pump to the line and manually control the vacuum and see how it shifts. EDIT: Of course it goes without saying, if you are losing vacuum, find the leak.
This one has an electric kickdown, like the TH400. There's a switch under the gas pedal, and a wire to the back of the transmission. It's a kind of oddball BW transmission. If it were losing vacuum, it would shift late and hard...it acts like it has too much vacuum.
Does your kickdown have two power wires or just one and a ground? In doing some quick searching, I found two different wiring options. One has a switch that provides all the power to the solenoid and a ground wire on the other solenoid post. The other option has one wire from the switch providing power and a second wire from the fuse block providing power to the other solenoid post. That solenoid is grounded through the transmission. In the 2 positive setup it is possible the wires are on the wrong posts or that one of the two isn't sending power.
Jim, You have a ton more experience in these things, but every old school trans guy I knew had and relied on a set of pressure gauges for diagnosing and adjusting. I don't know if this one even has line outputs, but if it does, that's a good place to start.
One problem is that I have not found a service manual for this transmission in this application. There is one available (expensive) for International Scouts, which used one very similar. Nothing for Checkers so far. There is one wire to the kickdown solenoid, and it does appear to work, at least most of the time. I did have to rebuild the switch, of course...one of the contacts had broken off. I started with the stock modulator pin, 2.94"long, just like in Internationals. I got up to 3.00" long, and it is shifting better, but still way early at full throttle. I tried 3.03" long, it's too long to fit...oh well.
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