For all my time I have always used a 3/8" breaker/driver (but I would prefer a longer at least 10" version) to the one I have. And of course a feeler gauge set. Occasionally I use a long-handled box-end wrench. They both work fine. I also set or adjust them with and without the engine running. Do you guys have a better or more preferred combo set of wrenches you prefer. I've also tried a flex wrench head which was, meh. And a 3/8" ratchet, works but it's annoying having to reset direction. Any thoughts?
Longer breaker bar https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/breaker-bars/3-8-in-drive.html I'm not a Y block guy. What locks the adjustment bolt in place? An Allen set screw inside the bolt? A nut on the outside of the bolt, tightened against the rocker arm?
Many years ago I bought a valve facer and seat grinder for the garage I worked for. Everything was in excellent shape and there was other equipment in the cabinet for the valve grinder. One of the things was a P&G valve gapper. I told the garage owner that was my comission for getting him such a good deal. He thought that was okay since he didn't know what it was anyway. Used it on my Chevy race engines and my 312.
Jaracer : YOU DA MAN... I had one years ago & used it for everything before someone "borrowed" it... I'm glad someone besides me actually knows what I'm talking about when I mention it!!! Much more accurate than "bent" feeler gauges, especially if you are adjusting "worn" rocker arms!!
Using P&G valve gapper 'how to' on Y block. https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/pg-valve-gapper-model-111-instructions/ There seems to be several available on epay.
I see the P&G gapper for sale once in a while for sale but never had the chance to grab one. Atho I'm just fine with a feller gauge. They usually sell around 150 or so? depending on condition. So far it sounds like I'm doing it much like the rest of ya. Keep the reinforcements coming!
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