want to blast and paint lots of stuff so need lots of paint i am looking at epoxy primer - I want to buy a gallon or 5l apply it to fenders and pickup bed and running boards with a 4'' foam roller and a brush used to buy this Epoxy Primer Paint Anti-Corrosion 2K 1.6L 1:1 Novol Protect 360 | eBay 1.6l anti corrosion 2k for 1.6l 32 pounds ratio paint to hardener 1 to 1 21 bucks a litre seen this MULTI-MIX GREY EPOXY PRIMER 5L KIT | eBay still 'epoxy' primer 5l at $69.00 14 bucks a litre ratio of paint to hardener 4 to 1 I cannot get my head around that much of a hardener ration differnece also whilst I am on is it you simply cannot use a 2 pack filler primer on bare metal at all as ? i dont know why you cannot? its a polyester waterproof 2 part paint? U-POL S2025 HIGH BUILD 2K PRIMER WITH S2030 UPOL HARDENER - 5LTR KIT - GREY | eBay 2k filler primer 4-1 ratio, 5l = £42 bucks a litre - free delivery £8.50 per litre is this filler primer just that - it has wood pulp or crushed slate as a filler? so its cheaper - -this is acrylic - does that mean it is water based ?
I use SPI SOUTHERN POLYURETHANE.ITS 1 TO 1.I USED IT ON 3 PROJECTS I CAN APPLY HI BUILD OVER IT THEN SAND.
To answer the questions you asked the mix ratio is nothing to be worried about. If the company says it's 4:1 it's 4:1. If they say it's 3:1 it's 3:1. There are many different Epoxy chemistries that require different mix ratios and different companies use different chemistries. Some products will have different ratios for the same product depending on what it is being used as. Follow whatever the company making the product recommends for how you are using it. The fill material in a fill primer will be talc just like in a body filler. The Upol product is not waterbased. It uses an isocyanate as the hardener so it is more than likely a acrylic urethane. This also makes it more dangerous to spray. Being that you are in Europe you are going to get a lot of different options for what is readily available than what is available in North America. I would ask at your local automotive paint distributor as to what is commonly used in restorations over there. Going to be better answers than a bunch of people who never seen most of the products available over there giving you product suggestions that may not even be available or would cost you 10 time the price of the product to ship there.
one last thing MULTI-MIX MULTI-THINNER 2K UNIVERSAL THINNERS 5L | eBay I think I just assumed that you needed to buy the same brand thinners If water based two pack paints exist, how do you know what is what? I simply do not understand how you can have a 2 part paint that is water based? also adding thinners to the catalised paint to thin - do I assume that all of the thinners gets flashed off ? so it is best to do a couple of coats real thin if using a roller
The water base auto paints I’ve used are base coat only. Just color. Its “thinned” with a water add product specific to that paint manufacturer. If 2k then it uses a hardener designed for it. To understand how a product works you look up the TDS. Technical Data Sheet. Each product has a TDS and SDS (safety) The TDS lists all products recommended for use, the substrates, temp, mixing ratios, flash time, cure time, cleanup…… There’s even gun specific set up info out there. mixing different brands together? I try to use the same line per product. Brand A primer with brand A hardeners and reducers. There are generic hardener and reducers. I’ve used em. Haven’t had an issue for the practice work at school. I don’t like using brand A and brand B mixed together. I do use brand A primer under brand B paint. I follow the TDS for each product used.
You are way over thinking this. You don't need to understand how the chemistry works to use the products someone who knows way more than any of us has already done this. As I said before talk to a local distributor who will know about the products that are available to you. I have been in body shops and paint distributors in many different countries around the world and the one consistent is that nothing is consistent country to country so the best people to give you advise are those that are where you are. Then once you have picked a product do as Anthony said and follow the TDS sheet.
The other thing I would add is if this is your first time using these types of products pay the extra and buy them from someone local rather than online so you have some tech support if you need it or if you run out of something half way through you can get it right away. Buying online gets you none of those things and if something goes wrong you are SOL.
Hello, something about using 'SLOW' catyliser as roller and brush applied - - does adding thinners slow the drying. giving more 'open' time before the roller falls apart. does adding thinners to aid surface tension 'ping' eat the foam is everything epoxy primer basically jp37 2k epoxy primer, no talc filler, with a bit of anti rusthow can that be thopugh its 2k so non permeable over single stage rattler being permeable
The epoxy I have used had its own specific hardener and thinners too. No mix and match with other products. Life's to short to be able to try and fully understand everything. Chris
Yes indeed, next day delivery sweet - only had 1l cans, so really its £100 yes, so not understanding everything so I plastered a wall - after straightening up some badly installed upvc windows, hadn't done any plastering or painting and decorating for years, went to the decorators shop and bought a 10 litre of paint just to use as a mist coat - or piss coat, or the coat to wash the dust off the bare gypsum based fully skimmed wall - -and proceeded to paint the whole wall, THEN discovered it was latex , so then proceeded to was all the paint off my lovely freshly plastered wall, refilled the plastic tub with water and took it back and swapped it for some vynil matt dulux supermatt, only then looking twice and realising it was latex or amonia based house paint, and the same brand sells fresh plaster sealer- which is vynil matt emulsion, now I know this as I one painted fresh plaster with vinyl SILK - this you cannot use either, as it wont 'go in' so hung a lovely neon sign in someones stairwell plastered the cables in the walls and used some old paint the boss told me to use - I couldnt see the label - that all came off like bogeys, brand new 12 million pound house, so there you got PAINT tech - -latex paint is a usa idea, whereby you do your dry wal decorators side out - not you have to here as it has a feather edge to one side only - the 'paper' if you liek side, and proceed to 'spackle' or fille the joints and sand, LATEX is ok on this as 'spakle' is a china clay product and not a gypsum based plaster - in the u and k , you use the plasterboard - or hard wall or dry line paper side in - no feather edge, skim side out and tape the joints and skim the whole wall, nessesitating the use of vynil matte emulsion, now do not get me started on distemper, as we have all skimmed over a distemper painted wall before and the plaster sheet off like ceramic tile, we know this as distemper is bascially gum arabic 'reversible' wash of able paint - or poster paint, now we know 'even' thoughICI chemicals brought out super matte vynil emulsion in 1955, the 'councils' in the United Kingdom, kept using distemper into the 1980's, so basically IF you want answers to questions I alway would ask on an internet forum advise from people that use somethingon a day to day basis what is what, rather than ask a salesman. yes so another 55 floor multi billion pound build in g in that uk / london, I am watching some idiots paint a metal exterior door in the winter - its freezing outside but warm inside, the colour is a red and the paint is blooming like frig and going cloudy - -i don't even tell them the problem until they have repainted it 5 times.... and yes i reallly recently watched a gang of ten blokes rolling 2k on a metal staircase in a shopping centre and laughing as their 4'' foam rollers were disingtigrating and the crumb was sticking in the paint finish, but ho - hum, thats why I asked, I painted my cab and chassis with a 1'' or 1.5'' flat brush, but now the big blaster is up and running i have to blast everything at once and paint stuff quick as its out in the moisture.
These guys have you covered, you have already bought and said you know that climate can cause issues. I'll mention 2 more points. First, always try it on a test panel if you have invested time and effort on the parts you are painting! Make mistakes before it really matters! Second, Clean! Then clean again with the stuff called for by the product you are applying.
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