Hey all it’s been some time since I have been here but I’m back and working on my 1931 coupe it’s pretty much all original which is kind of what I’m looking for my engine is leaky and tired so instead of going through and rebuilding 93 year old iron I decided to buy a Burtz Block kit my thoughts are antique looks but modern guts Another thing I’m doing when the engine is completed will be a T-170 conversion. I have been gathering parts to finish the conversion and currently the main shaft is the only part I’m waiting on. I just sent it out to be shortened so I have a few weeks to plan for other parts! I have decided to do the “Goldilocks” ratio for the T-170 I had all parts but the 19 tooth overdriven gear. A gentlemen on the ford barn ended doing the same conversion and built his own 19 tooth gear from a Jeep input shaft. I ordered one from Crown and did the same! I now have all I need to build the trans! I think a synchronized transmission with Overdrive will be a joy to drive. My purpose of the thread is to inquire how to build the block. I ordered the block kit and the flywheel. I did not buy the head or cam yet as this is where I’m on the fence. Do I build it “stock” looking and use an updraft Zenith or do I bump up the compression a few points change to a distributor with a set curve and add a downdraft steomberg 97 or two. My initial thoughts are that this block crank combo could be built to hold together under power but how far do I want to take this? im just looking for some input before I buy parts to make the final decision I’m also going to need some input on shortening the torque tube drive shaft and radius arms for the T-170 before I start cutting in a running driving car! thanks guys I look forward to hearing from you all Dave
Opinions are my long suit. You say "Pretty much all original is kind of what I'm looking for." Consider that you already took care of top speed. ( after 'trimming' the torque tube ) A little dig off the line can be had with the right head. Going fo a hot cam would completely change that "Pretty much Orig" personality. A Stromberg ( one ) would not appear too radical; making the head swap count. Enjoy
Depends what look you want. It's not visually an A because there is no drain. Putting a stock head on it would be a travesty as its only very low compression. With a 5 bolt mains you can put any high compression head you want. The motor should come with a touring cam, if not they can recommend the parts you need. If you want to go ultra-historic look use the stock distributor and cap for original plug wires and a nu-rex timing system
To stick with the period look I'm running an old Mallory dual point distributor, they were used in combines and industrial engines in my Roadster Pickup. Basically a stock engine with a Snyder's 5:5 to 1 head, Burns intake manifold and a Holley 94.
Raising compression a little bit is one of the best things you can do to old motors. I say this because even though yours is new, its still old design....flathead
My Tudor has inserted balanced engine, stock ignition, one 97 ,5.5 head and T170 transmission with the small overdrive ratio with 3.78 rear end. I have put 29,000 miles on it. It has 16"radial tires and Lincoln style brakes, If you drive an A at highway speeds good brakes are needed. I think you will have a nice set up with the Burtz and the synchro transmission makes driving in traffic better as well as overdrive.for highway. Have fun John
I’m on the Burtz Facebook page and also a member of ford barn I’m thinking downdraft stromberg or two the Burtz cam, Egge pistons and the Burtz head. This will look half way period correct and could be something a kid in 1947 could have built thanks for all your feedback this will be a great project Dave
Use Jim Brierley's 7:1 head his Winfield R-1 grind cam, 1 or 2 Strombergs, a tube or cast iron header, bigger intake valves, FSI Zipper dist (tell them 7:1 and they'll set the right curve). You're on HAMB not Ford Barn. I'm building a B to these specs. I don't want to pay the 25% penalty to buy a Burtz in CA. 10% tax on out of state purchase $440 then $600 shipping.
29 sleeper I Know I'm on the HAMB I just was letting you know ow I’m on The Ford Barn as well. I’m confused on the 25% penalty (is that a VAT tax or something? How do I find Jim Brierleys company? Thanks again Dave
Your question "Do I build it “stock” looking and use an updraft Zenith" led me to remind you this is not the Ford Barn which seems to concentrate on "stock". Not VAT. The cost of living in CA. Most mail order companies only charge sales tax if they have a brick and mortar store in your state. Add in $600 for shipping to CA and you end up spending an extra $1,040. The Burtz block and flywheel are NOT worth over $5,000 to me. PS I also shop at Bert's and Mike's for parts not Braton's or Snyder's since they also want to add 10% to my order because I live in CA. My current Antique Engine Rebuilding engine has balanced crank, inserts, big valves, touring cam, 6.1:1 head and an updraft carb. It'll run 70 mph with it's Mitchell OD - but that's it. The A Zenith is the choke point. Jim's info right at the top of the Banger Meet page - https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...t-thread-another-trip-around-the-sun.1328975/
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